George

Not if you are running this as a USPSA match. All kidding aside, tackwelded, loctited, superglued or not. The rule is non magnification scopes, not magnified scopes turned down. A 1-4 set to 1 is not allowed. This is not a rule the match director can fudge on. As I mentioned earlier I post this comment in jest As far as Loctite goes, I only recognize the red version as equal to or better than semi-permanent, LOL But, as we are only a Level 1 match, if somebody does tack weld or loctite their LPV in place, the very least I can do for that poor soul is to allow them to compete for prize. Again, I say this in the spirit of levity as I think the whole situation with this new ruling is some pretty funny shjt BTW, I am gonna turn 55 later this year, my eyes are not really there anymore and I like shooting irons a lot. I welcome anyone with a fixed 1x optic to come out and play in Limited/Standard

I agree for purposes of tactical usage, but competition specific AR-15's are quite a different animal. A military grade AR pattern firearm (especially the new M4 with short gas system) using military ammo has plenty of gas pulse to get the job done (way too much in fact) and running bone dry is very doable, even preferable in some situations (dusty, sandy and frigid). The heavy buffer and full power spring snap the bolt back in place with authority after the hefty gas pulse slams the bolt carrier fully to it's rear stop, good function juju all that l) In a race rifle where lightened bolt carriers and adjustable gas blocks are used to minimize sight recovery time, minimizing friction with ultra slick lubrication schemas is a very good idea. Add wimpy ammo to the mix and you have real bolt-stopper going there. A race rifle wants to function reliably but also wants to minimize reciprocating mass movement of the rifle by the bolt carrier so a careful compromise has to be made. But in general, a box stock A2 or M4 config rifle in good mechanical condition oughta' function just fine dry with snappy ammo (read 55gr shjt that moves downrange better'n 3000 fps in a 16"er here)

I am joking of course. I would accept a mechanical crimp in place of a tack weld Why not just use Loctite 290? It wicks into the joint, and is pretty tough stuff. Yeah, I guess red loctite would be acceptable as long as I can see a fully cured ring it of all the way around the adjustment knob, LOL

I am joking of course. I would accept a mechanical crimp in place of a tack weld

We will be allowing rifles with low powered variable scopes to compete in Limited at the 2010 Bay Area Rifle Championship if the adjustment ring is tack welded (not glued or taped) into the 1x setting LOL

Typical low mounted optics and irons have POA (point of aim) at about 2.5" above barrel center-line. This typically equates to being on at 40 and 200 with 55gr ammo that is going downrange in the 3000 to 3100fps range. A POA that is 3.5" above barrel center-line will need a 50 yard zero to be on at 200 with standard 55gr fodder. Any good ballistics program should have an option to specify sight center-line versus barrel center-line to see where the bullet rising and falling crosses line-of-sight. As mentioned earlier a 40 yard zero does not guarantee a 200 yard one so verification at 200 is always in order.

Sounds like the wimpy Wollf stuff has it short-stroking. Agreed on light lube like motor oil and using plenty of it. Check gas rings to make sure end gaps are not aligned (the ring gaps need to be spaced 120 degrees apart on assembly). If the bolt latch is catching the bolt with snappier ammo and the mag is not empty, check the bolt latch to see if it's return spring is too light letting it engage by flopping while the bolt is cycling. The spring on the bolt catch should prevent the latch from catching the bolt carrier unless the mag is empty and follower is lifting the bolt latch into engagement.

OK, it looks like we are at capacity now and registration will be closed. If you mailed your application in anytime last week you are good to go. If you haven't sent your application in yet and have not sent me a personal message to hold a slot then you are probably not going to get a slot in the 2010 BARC. I will verify final competitor count and post a revised registered competitor list this evening.

Late Breaking News: BARC hits the big time! The American Trigger Sports Network has just confirmed that they will be filming the 2010 BARC for TV coverage later this year. They will be bringing a full production truck to the match and be doing competitor interviews, following shooters through stages and placing point of view cameras downrange for dramatic coverage of competitor runs. If anyone does not want to be filmed all you have to do is let them know during the competitor orientation and they will make sure no video is taken of you during the match.

Registration is now at 52 of 60 available slots filled as of yesterday. We now have 3 of 7 stage diagrams posted. 2010 BARC Stage Diagrams The rest will get posted as we get them finished up. Here is a general description of stages for the match. Stage 1 will be on Bay 1 and will be a medium/long field course with just under 30 rounds required. Stage 2 & 3 are on Bay 2 and are both Virginia Count standards with 16 and 20 rounds required respectively. Stage 4 is on Bay 3 and is a long field course with 36 rounds required. Stage 5 is on Bay 4 and will be a long field course with over 40 rounds required. Stage 6 will be on Bay 5 and will be a long field course with over 30 rounds required. Stage 7 will be on the 200 yard rifle bay and will be a long field course with over 30 rounds required. This makes the approximate round count for the match right around 200 rounds minimum (just over half that number will be required for manual rifle).

We are getting more sponsorship offers coming in and it looks like the prize table is going to be pretty darned good this year.No matter where you finish we plan to make sure you go away with something from the prize table. Place in the top 25% and you will get a very decent prize value for your efforts :-)We are over 40 competitors confirmed as of now so get your apps in if you want to make sure you get a slot as we have a 60 shooter cutoff.

Manual Action Standard & Open generally follow USPSA 2009 Rifle Rules No more than 6 rounds loaded at any one time for manual standard (we are borrowing this from IPSC Rifle Rules), no ammo limit in manual open, one shot only required per paper target in all manual action divisions.

Sponsor list has been posted 2010 BARC Sponsors Irvington Arms has stepped up to be our main match sponsor. Frank Chan will be providing a seriously generous amount of high end products for the prize table.Additional sponsorship will be provided by BrianEnos.com, GlockWorx, Grams Engineering, Tabors Shooting Supplies and Axial Video Systems. Irvington Arms will have their armorer there on match day with plenty of help and parts available for anyone who needs it. Frank will also have .223 ammo available at the match. Please Contact him directly if you will need any specific ammo supplies. At this point we have 40 of the 60 match slots spoken for so if you are thinking about shooting this match, get your Application in soon, it's gonna' be a good one.

The 2010 Bay Area Rifle Championship is now open for registration.Match entry is limited to 60 competitors so get your entry in ASAP. Date: August 29th, 2010 Location: Richmond Rod & Gun Club, Richmond, CA Stages: 7 Rounds: 200+ Max Distance: 210 yards Rules: USPSA Rifle Match is USPSA Level 1 Divisions: Open, Tactical, Standard, Manual Open, Manual Standard Categories: Sr, SSr, Lady, Junior, LEO, Military & Sporting Rifle Match Fee: $80 (match T-shirt, hat and much more included in match fee) Info - Rules - Application Hope to see you and your favorite smokepole there!

OK, just for fun I ran a 220gr RN at 825fps with a .180 BC and 25yd zero and at 800 yards here is the drop in inches and MOA. Distance Inches MOA 800yds -2168.84 -250.89 You are losing better than 10 MOA (100") every 25 yards at this distance so figure at 1000yds you will be at least 340 MOA or 3400 inches low. Probably a good bit more. Hope this helps

What if your rifle is 1000 yards away? Just find someone close by with a rifle and take theirs

Sheeoooot, who's trolling who here

OK, responses in order of questions. (BTW, I agree with trickpony on all except the carbide die). Carbide dies are brittle and will crack if you use "cam-over" where the die contacts the shell plate and applies pressure against it when the ram cams over. Plain steel dies are more ductile and will allow this. I always find cam over needed to get the correct amount of sizing on my single stage press. I also like running lubed cases as press force is lower when cases are lubricated. Use Dillon lanolin based spray lube. The gracey and the giraud trim, debur and chamfer the inside of the case mouth in one step. The chamfer keeps copper from shaving when seating the bullet. Forster style trimmers (RCBS, LLee, Dillon Power Trimmer, etc...) all leave a ragged square case mouth and need cleanup work to be done afterwords. The Forster style trimmers trim against the base of the case. The gracey and giraud trim referencing the shoulder of the case. This is a much superior way as the case indexes against the case shoulder in the chamber. This provides a consistent leade jump for the bullet and better accuracy. There is no such thing as a cheap lunch here, get the good tools (gracey or giraud) The primer pockets only need reaming/swaging if you are de-capping military brass that has crimped in primers. Popping out crimped primers leaves a burr on the primer pocket lip that must be removed. You can get specialized swaging tools but I find the little deburring tool from RCBS to do the job quite well. The swagers I have tried still leave a little lip or bump so I prefer removing the metal with a deburring tool rather than squooshing it back into place with a swager. The benefit to using the deburrer tool to do this is that there is now a lead in chamfer on the primer pocket and you will not occasionally squoosh primers when seating them anymore. Dillon spray lube is the total shiznit. Lube pads suck. Imperial sizing wax is good too, but using it is a butt slow process where you rub it on each case by hand. Use the Dillon spray and just dump 50-100 cases into a shallow cardboard box and spritz them then roll the cases around in the box for a few seconds and size them. No easier or better way IMHO. When you pre-size using a single stage press the die in the first station on a progressive is only used to remove case neck dents that occur after tumbling. Set this die to just pass the expander ball through the case mouth and run the depriming pin out the flash hole (this removes and tumbling media that might get stuck there). Do not screw the die in far enuff to actually force the case neck into the die and push the shoulder back any further. I use another Dillon FL non-carbide size die here as I want the expander ball to be exactly the same as the one in the die that sized the case on the single stage press. You tumble empty cases until they are clean, bright and shiny. With good new media it takes me 2-4 hours to get this result, your mileage may vary. I tumble processed cases before loading to make sure they are clean as a whistle. To clean lube off loaded cases run in a single batch process on a progressive, I pour a couple tablespoons of isopropyl alchohol into the tumbling media and tumble the loaded ammo for 5-10 minutes. This gets the lanolin based lube off the cases fast. You can leave the lube on to no ill effect but I don't like sticky ammo

I have used the Choate tubes for years and they work fine, they are a solid workhorse solution at a very low price-point. Way back when I fit-up they were the only easily obtained solution. The Nordic stuff is beautifully made and exactly what I will replace the Choate with when the time comes for it to say goodbye.

I use HS-6 for 9mm loads. My 170+ PF stuff uses 8.6gr under a 124 JHP at the longest OAL the mag allows (1.155). The 147gr bullet loads I have done gave about 145-150PF. Depending on OAL they went 6.0 to 6.5 grains, OAL from 1.120 to 1.155. Remember to start low by 5-10% and work up carefully in your gun.

I would think that AR-400 would be OK with .223 at over 150 yards. Do expect the edges to nick easily with edge hits though. I know for a fact that .223 craters AR-500 steel (MGM stuff) easily at 50-60 yards. Haven't seen any damage to AR-500 once the distance gets a bit beyond 100 yards. Interestingly enuff, .308 doesn't faze AR-500 plates at 50-60 yards (except for edge hit dings of course).

If you are using the sound of the steel to tell you that you have a hit then you ain't using the sights properly. You should be able to see AND call the hit yourself way before you hear anything or see anything start to fall. JMHO, read Brians book if you want more on how this should work. Where the sights are at the time the gun goes pop is where your shot is going to hit, you need to "see" this as it is happening not wait for something else to tell you the story.

I think shots should not be much beyond 300 meters but also feel that there should be a goodly number of targets at or beyond 200. I also agree with Trapr that 3.5 MOA is what you should be looking at rather than any specific actual distance. If you can't make a 3.5 MOA shot at 300+ meters you ain't gonna make it at 150-200 either

Combined division results are available at the following links: PDF Text File