KlausN

Not being heavily involved in USPSA but having fun shooting the question in my mind always was "what is the purpose of a division?" Reading this thread, I see two reoccurring points. One separation by performance and two separation by cost. If this is the real goal, USPSA could look at other sports, auto racing for example and try to shape the divisions. 1. Open-wheel (F1 or Indy), money is no object and the pinnacle of performance this might be similar to open 2. Sports car, non production prototypes built for racing but with limitation (DTM, WTCC, SC) this class could incorporate Limited guns with or without dot or possibly two classes if they are different in performance Limited and Limited Optic. Expensive guns built for sport (racing) 3. Production (SCAA) or Stock car. This could be a production and a production optic class limited to 15rds to create more interest and keep the guns 'cheap' without modifications. 4. Old s#!t e.g. 1911 and revolver A setup like this would create 4 main divisions with some subdivisions. This idea could be modified by people who are more involved in the shooting sport but it would divide divisions by cost and performance / modification levels. Power factor or performance level could be used to equalize the subdivisions by some type of handicap e.g. minor vs major or other handicap 'adjustments'.

Did you have anyone question the pinned grip safety, yet?

No experience with the factory plate system but my CZC plate on my Shadow 1 has no issues after more than 10k rounds and me using the SRO as a slide racker.

Both are outstanding but different. If you know what you need you can’t go wrong either way. In case you want some advice, I prefer Cajun Gun Works. I am not saying CZC is bad but you have to understand a certain kind of humor to talk to them sometimes.

Matto06, I took a very similar “journey’ but arrived at a different conclusion. I noticed the same difference in “natural” aim between the shadow2, the shadow 1 and the Beretta LTT. The S1 pointed more natural than the S2 and the LTT was the best. I just don’t like the position of the Beretta mag release and how stiff it is. The Tanfoglio LF Limited is my absolute favorite but due to age, I switched to CO and I have too much money sunk into my CZs therefore I will just stick with it until the point in the direction where i need them to point. 1000s of draws later, it is getting slowly better but no matter what, natural aim exists at least for me and the Tanfoglio, LTT and 1911 point easier for me. I am Just done spending money to buy improvement and decided maybe, just maybe practice will help. Lot less fun than buying stuff but perpetual C class is no fun either

Same problem on different magazines?

If you mix the sand with fairy dust it will stick perfectly. In case Amazon is out of fairy dust, epoxy works fine and you can select the silicon carbide ‘grid’ to your preference. For the price, if you don’t have grips, it seems like a good option but most of us will have some ‘take off’ grips which can be used. I used plastic and aluminum and both worked fine. Additionally epoxy putty can be used to match the grip to your hand size and shape before using the magic dust. 60 grid is good for competition but not so good for dry fire. 100-120 seems good for dry fire.

I had a similar experience, the first gram spring and follower kit I bought was reliably causing nose dives. I bought two more from a different source a year later and those work without issues in my mec-gar tubes with different extensions. I am wondering if I purchased the incorrect type the first time around or incorrect delivery?

Didn’t know they exist. I made my own, fairly easy and cheap.

I tried the grip tape on the magwell but it made it very hard to insert the magazines. - sorry I couldn’t resist, that was too good of an “opening”, all pun intended

I like the looks of the 75 better but the SP01 has at least some front and back strap checkering. Also the SP01, at least mine has a little better beveled magwell.

Tbarker13 has a good point and to expand a little. Having a plate system where you can exchange red dots from different manufacturers will likely not hurt the resell value, it might actually help selling to a competition shooter. Direct milling while it not necessarily decreases the resell value, will increase the time to sell, because you have to find someone who wants to use a red dot with the same footprint. Therefore it will, in a roundabout way decrease the value for a gun store as it takes longer to sell.

Thank you for the explanation. I couldn’t figure out what was going on as it seemed to be a combination of follower and extension. I see the exact same issue with extensions if I use the grams follower but I have no issues with this standard follower except that I lose capacity. I have one +10 extension which runs fine with the standard follower also. Pushing the grams follower beyond the ribs caused the problem but using the standard follower seems to work fine. I am interested if a U-shaped shim would fix the problem. Basically creating a shim for the spring to sit on with the legs taking up the space on the sides in stead of modifying the tube?

I wanted to buy a second one and can’t find another 5moa for a decent price now. 1 and 2.5 moa yes but we all seem to like the 5moa better.

Not sure about 400 extra? I purchased my SRO locally for less than 500.

For a SRO most prefer the 5 MOA. I like the 5 MOA better than a 2 ish. For closer distances and older eyes bigger dots seem to work better for most.

Sorry, I wasn’t precise. They are all shadows, one 75 s1 and two SP01 shadows. The all needed different hammer springs to ignite all primers. Therefore I went to 13lb on two and 12 lb on the third.

I really like my SRO. The only drawback is the “rim” is quite thick in comparison to some other optics. I would buy it again. The larger window made it easier to transition to a red dot from iron sights. .

https://christiansencomponents.com/product-category/pistol/toni-system-components-pistol/tanfoglio/ tonisystems and ipsc store also have some parts.

Unfortunately I can’t tell you how it shoots but I suggest holding any gun weighting 51oz. I was thinking about the A01LD too but trying a CZ shadow with brass grips and a brass magwell made it clear that a 51oz gun is not for me even before taking one shot. There is still the SD version? Success er mee.

Doesn’t the slide go forward on the M1 by inserting the mag a little harder? Or does this only work on an M1 lower with a M1 upper? My S&W loaded a round from lock back ever time I inserted a mag.

A mid quality 6-32 screw should be able to take 400 lb in shear. A quick, literally back of the envelope calculation assuming almost worst case yielded 300N force assuming 0.6kg weight of the optic (far too high in order to create a worst case), 1cm deceleration distance, 3ms time to stop. To make it worse, assuming only one single screw takes all the force, it would be (rounded) about 300N or 30kg while a single screw should be able to take 400lb or 180 kg in shear. Even with all worst case assumptions a decent screw should not get close to the cyclic fatigue limit. But on the other hand nothing is perfect and manufacturing defects exist and that is why the belt and suspenders approach is best, Or a dovetailed plate with bosses. But this doesn’t mean screws alone don’t work if properly sized and torqued.

I used to have the 11.5 lb hammer spring in my 75 shadow and in my SP01 shadow (internals are similar to the S2) but I had issues in one gun (not the other) igniting all factory primers even with the extended FP. I switched both to 13lb which fixed all light strikes. I als switched a third with the APEX kit from 11 to 12 because the gun would not set of Tula steel in DA, worked fine in SA with 11 lbs. 11.5 works for most guns and most ammunition but not all guns and all ammunition therefore you might have try yourself. Or you just don’t use the cheapest ammunition you can find like me.

You got a good point. The Venom also uses 6-32 screws if I recall correctly and 20 in/lbs is on the upper limit for a size 6 screw. loktite would “lubricate” and therefore reduce the head and thread friction. A minimum of 3 thread engagement is standard therefore at a 32 thread count you would need a base where the bolt engages the thread of at least 0.094” or 2.4mm assuming the same strength. The CZC plate is about 3mm thick. Now the question is how to engage a bolt at least 2.4mm in a 3 mm plate without reaching the bottom using the 0.6mm ‘clearance’ From all of the above 1. ensure the bolt isn’t too long to bottom-out or too short to not engage enough threads- there isn’t a lot of margin. 2. 20 in-lbs seems to be the upper end for a 6-32 bolt if used dry. Using loctite should require a lower value even though the manufacturer Henkel said no torque adjustment needed.

You are referring to the height adjustable shadow 2 sight? I have those on all of my SP01 shadows, no issues yet. One sight came loose and needed loktite 3 years ago perfect since.