KlausN

Not being heavily involved in USPSA but having fun shooting the question in my mind always was "what is the purpose of a division?" Reading this thread, I see two reoccurring points. One separation by performance and two separation by cost. If this is the real goal, USPSA could look at other sports, auto racing for example and try to shape the divisions. 1. Open-wheel (F1 or Indy), money is no object and the pinnacle of performance this might be similar to open 2. Sports car, non production prototypes built for racing but with limitation (DTM, WTCC, SC) this class could incorporate Limited guns with or without dot or possibly two classes if they are different in performance Limited and Limited Optic. Expensive guns built for sport (racing) 3. Production (SCAA) or Stock car. This could be a production and a production optic class limited to 15rds to create more interest and keep the guns 'cheap' without modifications. 4. Old s#!t e.g. 1911 and revolver A setup like this would create 4 main divisions with some subdivisions. This idea could be modified by people who are more involved in the shooting sport but it would divide divisions by cost and performance / modification levels. Power factor or performance level could be used to equalize the subdivisions by some type of handicap e.g. minor vs major or other handicap 'adjustments'.

Did you have anyone question the pinned grip safety, yet?

No experience with the factory plate system but my CZC plate on my Shadow 1 has no issues after more than 10k rounds and me using the SRO as a slide racker.

Both are outstanding but different. If you know what you need you can’t go wrong either way. In case you want some advice, I prefer Cajun Gun Works. I am not saying CZC is bad but you have to understand a certain kind of humor to talk to them sometimes.

Matto06, I took a very similar “journey’ but arrived at a different conclusion. I noticed the same difference in “natural” aim between the shadow2, the shadow 1 and the Beretta LTT. The S1 pointed more natural than the S2 and the LTT was the best. I just don’t like the position of the Beretta mag release and how stiff it is. The Tanfoglio LF Limited is my absolute favorite but due to age, I switched to CO and I have too much money sunk into my CZs therefore I will just stick with it until the point in the direction where i need them to point. 1000s of draws later, it is getting slowly better but no matter what, natural aim exists at least for me and the Tanfoglio, LTT and 1911 point easier for me. I am Just done spending money to buy improvement and decided maybe, just maybe practice will help. Lot less fun than buying stuff but perpetual C class is no fun either

Same problem on different magazines?

If you mix the sand with fairy dust it will stick perfectly. In case Amazon is out of fairy dust, epoxy works fine and you can select the silicon carbide ‘grid’ to your preference. For the price, if you don’t have grips, it seems like a good option but most of us will have some ‘take off’ grips which can be used. I used plastic and aluminum and both worked fine. Additionally epoxy putty can be used to match the grip to your hand size and shape before using the magic dust. 60 grid is good for competition but not so good for dry fire. 100-120 seems good for dry fire.

I had a similar experience, the first gram spring and follower kit I bought was reliably causing nose dives. I bought two more from a different source a year later and those work without issues in my mec-gar tubes with different extensions. I am wondering if I purchased the incorrect type the first time around or incorrect delivery?

Didn’t know they exist. I made my own, fairly easy and cheap.

I tried the grip tape on the magwell but it made it very hard to insert the magazines. - sorry I couldn’t resist, that was too good of an “opening”, all pun intended

I like the looks of the 75 better but the SP01 has at least some front and back strap checkering. Also the SP01, at least mine has a little better beveled magwell.

Tbarker13 has a good point and to expand a little. Having a plate system where you can exchange red dots from different manufacturers will likely not hurt the resell value, it might actually help selling to a competition shooter. Direct milling while it not necessarily decreases the resell value, will increase the time to sell, because you have to find someone who wants to use a red dot with the same footprint. Therefore it will, in a roundabout way decrease the value for a gun store as it takes longer to sell.

Thank you for the explanation. I couldn’t figure out what was going on as it seemed to be a combination of follower and extension. I see the exact same issue with extensions if I use the grams follower but I have no issues with this standard follower except that I lose capacity. I have one +10 extension which runs fine with the standard follower also. Pushing the grams follower beyond the ribs caused the problem but using the standard follower seems to work fine. I am interested if a U-shaped shim would fix the problem. Basically creating a shim for the spring to sit on with the legs taking up the space on the sides in stead of modifying the tube?

I wanted to buy a second one and can’t find another 5moa for a decent price now. 1 and 2.5 moa yes but we all seem to like the 5moa better.

Not sure about 400 extra? I purchased my SRO locally for less than 500.