BJB

Good info to know but not reflected in my chrono data of regular SPP vs. magnum SPP. I've chronoed the exact same load only changing the primer because I wanted to answer this exact question for myself. I had CCI regular & magnum SPP, Winchester regular & magnum SPP, and Federal regular & magnum SPP. I did strings of 10 shots 3 times for each primer....180 rds, The averaged chrono for each ended up being the same. As a matter of fact, the average was also the same among the different brands of primers, not just among the regular vs. magnum SPP. I printed the loads at 25 yards while doing this chrono work and didn't see an accuracy deference between primers or brands. Additionally, I was using a DA/SA pistol with a reduced mainspring to shoot these rounds shooting them all in DA so as to test the primer hardness. There was a difference here. Federal: both regular & magnum SPP fired fine. Winchester: regular primer fired fine & had one light strike with magnum primer. CCI: regular fired fine and had one light strike with magnum. Since doing that test a few years ago I've run tens of thousands of Federal magnum SPP thru the gun and haven't had a light strike. I've run 2 cases of Winchester magnum SPP thru the gun and would experience light strikes to the tune of maybe 1 or so per 100, so it was regulated to practice ammo. That is my direct test experience with regular vs. magnum SPP.....because I wanted to know the same thing as the OP.......thus, it is relevant. I did not measure cup thickness between primers. If the cup thickness is the same then I have to wonder about the possibility of different metallurgy used with regular vs. magnum SPP.

Small pistol magnum primers are simply harder than regular small pistol primers. They aren't any 'hotter' as some will claim, just simply harder to handle the increased pressures of the magnum loads without deforming or flowing. You should be able to run them just fine and with no noticeable difference. DA/SA pistols or competition revolvers that have a lowered mainspring might encounter lite strikes d/t the harder primer.

Those powders are fine.

https://www.ibejiheads.com/

First, try the same load in a different gun just to see if the results are repeated.

BBI is Black Bullets International

Blue Bullets & BBI aren't the same company.

Was the chrono positioned in direct sunlight? When in direct sunlight you can get strange readings. Put a cardboard target on top, no-shoot side down, to block the sunlight off of the sensors. Also, check your batteries.

No. Check your press. Something is wrong with this huge variance in OAL.

Both are 35 yds max.

Have you taken the slide off & inserted a loaded mag to see if the bullet ogive is engaging the slide stop? Remember, the cartridges are often pulled forward by the friction of the round above chambering......so, pull one slightly forward & see if it interferes with the slide stop.

About 3.3 gr should put you around what you desire.

3.9 gr Titegroup. This should give you a PF or ~135 in most full size pistols. My OAL means nothing to you. Use the OAL you determine you need. Set crimp to 0.378" or 0.379" and never worry about it again.

2020 Walther Arms Area 4 Championship is in the books. Very nice weather for the Saturday/Sunday shooters. Great stages, match was run very well, deep prize table. Match Director took care of the staff too.

Their web page says they aren't taking new orders until they get caught up with re-shipping orders.

Because the Earth is 1/365 further along it's arc around the Sun each day. 4 minutes x 365 days yields 1460 minutes which is 24.3 hours, which would be one complete circuit of the Earth when viewed from the perspective of the Sun.

FWIW: Blue Bullets are generally a little faster in the same weight with the same charge.

Look under "special order profiles". And, you can call them to have a different special order profile quantity added and they send you an invoice.

If you want to crimp more do that after re-seating them, not prior. Also, be aware that the taper crimp used for a 9mm bullet isn't what is holding the bullet in place. It's the neck tension below the crimp that holds the bullet in place. The taper crimp simply removes the bell or flair that you put in the case mouth so you can seat the bullet without scraping. Point being, don't over crimp. Set your crimp around 0.378" or so and never worry about it again.

Yes, not a problem, especially with jacketed.

They don't really expand or seal better like a Minie ball, the base is still too thick. What the hollow base does is make the driving band of the bullet longer, hence the claim of better accuracy. In 124 gr 9mm I didn't really notice improved accuracy but in 100 gr .380 I most certainly do see improved accuracy vs. the flat base version. Likely because the .380 is such a small bullet and the driving band is so short to begin with that any increase of the the driving band is bound to help.

That's from pulling bullets exactly as @zombywoof describes. If you have to pull a bunch of those you can minimize that by placing 2 or 3 cotton balls inside your puller and they'll cushion/prevent the bullet bouncing back into the case mouth.

The bullet you're comparing to is a jacketed bullet. Jacketed will be slower than coated or lead.

Get an account on "Practiscore". Search for the clubs local to you that run USPSA or Practical Pistol. Contact information will be listed for the match director. Contact the MD & tell'em you're new & want to shoot and the MD will have all kinds of information for you. For the clubs that set-up the day prior, folks will often shoot a little after the stages are set-up. That will be your chance to be introduced to the sport before the actual match.