BJB

Plunk test your loads in your barrel when working up a load and determine your OAL on that, not what OAL somebody else uses. Different ogives make tons of difference on the allowed OAL. You'll have very different OAL in the very same gun based on bullet profile & ogive. CZ, Tanfo, etc. usually have a very short leade because they are based on the European CIP system and will not plunk at the 1.15" OAL that you stated above for a lot of American made projectiles without a throat reaming. Plunk test your current loads and twist them. The round can still chamber and fire even if it fails the plunk test if the OAL is just slightly too long. The slide will ram the bullet ogive up into the rifling so it will be fully chambered, and fire, but this is not ideal for you. This can be seen via the plunk test or when you go to clear a live round from the chamber and you find that it is sticking. If the OAL is way too long then it won't fully chamber or fire.

Sport Pistol has been very, very consistent for me. It meters very well on my Dillon. Is the powder clumped possibly or there's debris interfering with the powder drop? From what you indicate the answer is no. When I come back to reload when it's been a day or two I take the primer follower and poke/stab/churn the powder in the measure so nothing is sticking together & tap the measure with the wrench. Then do the drops of 10 three times to make sure all is stable before reloading. Sport Pistol has always been spot on. Only other thing I can think of to produce such horrendous spreads is how far from the chrono are you? If it's too close the blast, smoke, etc can possibly be interfering.

If it occurs on the SA pull then you are correct. It's likely a seating issue. But, it's easily rectified once you get into your reloading routine.

I have had exactly one squib but it was in a match. As you described above, it also occurred very early on in my reloading endeavors and was entirely d/t my learning curve. I learned to reload and reload only, no multi tasking, and look for powder in each and every case as I place a bullet. Lite strikes are usually a result of not seating fulling but with a gun tuned somewhat for competition they can also be a result of the weaker main spring used to lower the DA pull if the primer is harder. That's why lots of guys, especially competition revolver guys & DA/SA Production guys, used Federal SPP exclusively. Were the lite strikes on the DA pull or the SA pull? The DA pull doesn't cock the hammer as far as the SA and it will impact with less force. For me this is where a lite strike will occur in cold weather. When it's time to replace springs d/t use the lite strikes can start occurring more often because the spring is weaker. I use mainly Winchester SPP and usually everything is good to go with them. I have polished my DA/SA action but I haven't lowered the main spring because I want it to always fire and I'm not married to Federal SPP. In the past, the lite strikes I did experience were with the Winchester SPP but it was only on the DA pull and only in cold weather. Nowadays, I'll load my Barney round with a Federal primer and everything else is primed with WInchester. I don't have tons of Federal primers but I can always find Winchester SPP for a deal so this works for me. When reloading, every so often I'll load a sleeve or two of Federal primers and they go in a different bag for my Barnys. BTW: I use predominately Winchester SPP but, besides Federal, I have also used CCI, Magtech, Fiocchi, & Remington. Every one of these have worked just fine in a DA/SA gun that is tweaked but not tweaked too much. The only failed primers I have ever experienced, that won't go off at all, even with repeated hits and in another gun, were Remington primers. Also, does your SP-01 have an extended firing pin? If not, an extended firing pin might help overcome some primer striking reliability issues that a tweaked DA pull might bring on.

I have had a RO tell me to lower the hammer when making ready instead of using the de-cocker. I told him he was wrong. If a gun has a de-cocker you can use it when making ready. If the DA gun doesn't have a de-cocker then you have to have the hammer fully forward at make ready. When the course of fire is complete and you show clear then you have to have the hammer fully forward regardless of if you have a de-cocker or not. I e-mailed Troy about this and he confirmed all of that and sent me the rulings/interpretations.

Unless you pay a lot more money, the standard equipment you use in reloading doesn't have the accuracy you might desire to measure these small amounts consistently. Get your powder drop set and then drop & measure 10 charges and average. Then do it again. Get it to where you want it via this method and you should be fine. Every so often when reloading do this again to check that your powder drop hasn't drifted. Also, different powders have different consistency as far as powder drops go. Some are more consistent than others regardless of how accurate your scale is.

3.6 gr of Titegroup under a 125 gr bullet will shoot just fine but if you're pursuing USPSA you''ll be down around the power factor floor or just over a little via a pistol barrel, depending on the temperature. Unless you're shooting Level II and Level III matches this might not matter to you, but when you're chrono arrives be sure to check them. Load some at 3.8 gr Titegroup and compare. They'll be comfortably above the power factor floor, likely more accurate at distance, and the spent brass will show a cleaner burn. Mix some of the 3.6 gr & 3.8 gr in a mag and shoot'em. You likely won't be able to tell a difference, especially on the clock. When I started reloading I chased the perfect lite load and spent lots of time at the range with different lite loads, bullets, OAL, chrono, accuracy testing, etc. It was a great learning experience for me but it all culminated in me loading every 9mm, regardless of weight, to around 132 to 135 PF to get the repeatable consistency & accuracy I desired. All the load data that I initially got from experienced shooters had power factors in the low to mid 130s and that's where I ended up much later too. That's my two cents, but be sure to run those 3.6 gr loads across your chrono when it arrives.

The 0.355" should mainly be fine. You'll have to test & compare with your barrel. For me, the 0.355" would group at 4" to 5" inches at 25 yds. Usually 8 or 9 of the shots would be around 3" with one or two flyers to open up the overall group. When I shoot 0.356" Blues I get consistent 3" 10-shot groups at 25 yds without the flyers. I shot thousands of Blues at 0.355" without any issue other than this though. The standard order of Blues will be sized at 0.355" but you can get them sized 0.356" via the "special profile" link, or just call them if what you want isn't listed there.

As stated, Blue Bullets has an increased discount for the large quantity you're interested in. 125 gr are good in either RN or TC. I get them sized to 0.356". If you're military, retired military, or LEO, IbejiHeads gives a discount. They also discount large orders a little bit more.

Nope, haven't experienced this from LOK. In fact I've experienced just the opposite. Communication with them has been good and the grips I've received from them have been perfect.

If you plan to compete you'll likely move to a heavier bullet in time. If you're not competing then shoot the 115 gr and enjoy. They are perfectly fine. If you're new to reloading then search on here about reloading coated or plated bullets and realize that for taper crimp all you're doing is removing the bell, or you could induce other issues. Blue Bullets changed their process around late summer. They wash the bullets now and not much blue comes off on your fingers. Before this blue would come off on your fingers but I would simply wash my hands and the problem was solved.

Yes, Grafs has had it more often than not lately. Right now Natchez has 1# & 4# too.

For me about the same. At the same PF, a 10-shot group of both powders via my Stock 2 @ 25-yds will render 2.5" to 3" groups, from a rest. Both powders are more accurate with a little velocity behind them. My 133-135 PF loads give the above mentioned grouping. Both powders show decreased accuracy when you try to squeak by at 127 PF or so. Both powders also get a better burn at the increased pressures.

I load 9mm minor with it. It's a good powder, but there are actually quite a few good powders out there for 9mm minor if you have trouble getting a hold of this stuff. It's not as dense as Titegroup so takes more volume to get the load you want. Some people consider this a plus but Titegroup's density and small charge volume was never an issue with me.. It's not a straight weight for weight replacement either. It takes a little more. For 135 gr 9mm I load 3.4 gr Titegroup to get the PF I desire. With Sport Pistol I have to load 3.55 gr to achieve the same result. Sport Pistol has good case fill. It seems to burn cooler and maybe have a little less smoke and it's not quite as dirty. It meters very, very well and very consistently. Some claim it's a poor man's N320 but I can't compare because I've never used N320. I've been competing with 125 gr bullets lately and 3.85 gr of Sport Pistol give me plenty of PF and a very nice recoil impulse. It does have some temperature sensitivity but not as much as Titegroup. I've about used 4 lbs. of Sport Pistol since the fall and have 4 more lbs. coming. I'm liking it so far.

It's from the powder, and that's not too bad at all.