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BJB

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About BJB

  • Rank
    Finally read the FAQs
  • Birthday 05/11/1969

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Arkansas
  • Interests
    USPSA
    2-gun
    Run & Gun
    Steel Challenge
    Conquer the Gauntlet
  • Real Name
    Bryan Brown

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  1. FYI: LOK now has small frame Tanfoglio grips. https://lokgrips.com/tanfoglio/palm-swell/bogies/tanfoglio-palm-swell-bogies/
  2. Yes, if you shoot a few stages as major and have to switch to minor then all the stages will be scored minor.
  3. Hey Jason, I once had an anvil get in my powder throw and screw it up. It scared it up fairly similar to what you're showing. When loading 9mm I keep a 40 S&W casing handy for when I periodically check my powder drop. I'll grab the 40 and put 3 drops in it, check the weight, then dump it back in the top of my powder flask. I figure that a separated anvil must have popped off during de-priming and fell into the 40 casing sitting there and I unknowingly dumped it into the powder flask when I checked the powder drop the next time.
  4. Load and plunk each of the profiles. When you determine the plunk go ahead & back off another hundredth. That's a good OAL starting point. The RN is likely to have a shorter OAL than the TC d/t it's fat ogive. With that CZ barrel, if it hasn't been throated, you're likely to be around 1.12" or below. With Titegroup I'd start around 3.8 gr or so and work up. Starting here should produce nice, safe pressures to start with. You're likely to find better accuracy around 4.1 gr or so but these loads will have to be developed for your gun. Chrono as you go.
  5. Yes, I've tested reloaded brass against reloaded Federal aluminium cases with the same 9mm minor load. I tested chrono & accuracy at 25 yds. 1) There was no difference in chrono. 2) Brass appeared to be very slightly more accurate at 25 yd but it was so close that it really didn't matter. I assumed the accuracy difference was because the aluminum didn't have the same neck tension as brass d/t the different metallurgy. 3) I shot mags mixed with reloaded brass & aluminum & couldn't tell the difference. 4) I gave a bunch of the reloaded aluminum rounds to friends who shot them in their firearms flawlessly, although they didn't test for accuracy, etc. 5) I've reloaded an aluminum case & took it out back & fired it & repeated this 8 times one afternoon looking for failure but it was fine each time. 6) I experienced no bullet setback with the aluminum cases but I do use an undersize die. 7) The aluminum was dirtier to shoot. The metal doesn't seal the chamber as good or as fast as brass does upon firing so there is a little gas leaking back around the case before the chamber seal is achieved. Thus, the chamber and breach area is dirtier with aluminum. 8 The aluminum does appear to work harden and be more prone to case failure over multiple firings than brass. There were more splits encountered at the case mouth over time in aluminum cases that had been fired multiple times than I've ever encountered with brass. 9) The aluminum case primer pockets became loose sooner than brass. 10) The aluminum cleaned up faster and better in my dry media tumbler. I messed with reloading the aluminum cases just to do it, simple as that. I don't reload aluminum because brass is better. In the past, if I went to a class that will be leaving a bunch of hulls on the ground I'd often bring a lot of that Federal Champion aluminum stuff. I have no issue with that. I would not use reloaded aluminum in a match because I think that they would be more prone to case failure. I didn't see case separation in my experimenting with aluminum but I do think it would be more prone to this failure, as well as split cases. For your inquiry about using "not-fired" aluminum cases at a match, not aluminum cases with multiple reloadings: l'd think that you should be OK. I didn't start seeing the aluminum failures until the metal was work hardened after multiple firings & reloadings. Early on in my USPSA shooting I actually shot some of that factory aluminum stuff because of the cost. It ran fine, although it was less accurate at distance. Use some of that aluminum you mentioned in a local match and find out for yourself. If it messes up in a local match it's no big deal. For a bigger match, use brass just to be safe.
  6. You'll certainly be able to tell the difference if powder is present. If you were to have a squib in the heat of a match the larger problem would be in having a ‘no-powder’ squib and getting a "no-fire click" and thinking you just had a bad primer or something instead of a squib and jacking another round in behind it and firing.........just like described by the OP. Sometimes you hear a little 'pop' with a squib and sometime you don't. Just the power of the primer will push that bullet up the barrel further than you’d think it could. I've had one squib and it just so happened to be in a match. I just heard a 'click' like when dry-firing, the RO just heard a 'click', and everyone else on the squad just heard a 'click'. Nobody realized I had a squib and these are all experienced shooters. I tried jacking another round in and luckily it wouldn't chamber fully because the squib was wedged in the throat and the next round was bottoming out on it and unable to chamber. I've encountered several squibs over time while ROing. They were all a 'no-charge' squib except one. That one squib that went 'bang' was actually factory ammo and it was evidentially a 'low-charge' squib but it was entirely noticeable that something wasn't right. The gun actually cycled and chambered the next round but it was very noticeable that something wasn’t right and I stopped the guy. I’d say the more dangerous squib is the ‘no-charge’ squib because you may or may not hear the ‘pop’.
  7. BJB

    147 blue bullet

    What 9mm is 1.250"?
  8. look through this: https://forums.brianenos.com/topic/269784-non-reloaders-what-ammo/?tab=comments#comment-3002043 Then go to sgammo.com and look around. They are located just down the road from you.
  9. Get in there with what you have, get your feet wet, experience, learn. Then, you won't need our opinion on what SA Limited gun to run as you'll have your own solid opinions on what you want. Have fun & enjoy.
  10. You mentioned budget is also a concern for you initially. With that in mind and since you currently have a G19, consider a holster compatible with a G34 and consider getting several fullsize Glock mags & mag pouches to start out with. Your G19 can run the fullsize mags & ride in the G34 holster for now. Later, and at your convenience, you can up your game by investing in the G34 when it suites you and you'll already have gear ready to run it with no extra outlay of cash. Just a thought.
  11. If you're intrigued by Limited then there's your answer. Take whatever 9mm gun you have, get a few mags, use your factory ammo, and for the first few months just shoot Limited Minor and enjoy. Don't bother about buying all the pricey mag extensions and all that stuff just yet. Shoot Limited Minor, load your mags out to capacity, and concentrate on safety, getting your hits, stage breakdown, etc. If you try Production right off the bat and your skill set isn't quite up to it you might find yourself doing a lot of standing reloads on stages, etc. Think about Limited Minor, load those mags out, and shoot away. You can attack a stage with Production in mind and change a mag moving between each array like Production but you'll have plenty of ammo on-board in case an array like a Texas Star causes you to miss a lot. After a few matches and feeling your way around somewhat, if you and your budget are still wanting to remain with 9mm minor then Production is where you'll be.
  12. Nope. You could try that link above and call them.
  13. FYI: If you haven't replaced that tall front sight with a shorter one more appropriately matched to the Super-Site keep in mind that Henning has a fixed rear site that is actually matched with the 0.180"' front site you have. I remembered seeing it once upon a time so had to go find it again. https://www.henningshop.com/Detail.aspx?PROD=1285237&CAT=9249
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