BJB

Not to a point. Just file around the edges so the tip is rounded instead of flat.

Hey J.B., I'll check with Brad who shoots with us down here at OFGC. He uses that stuff in his CZs and has some Gen 5s so maybe he can give an answer. Grab that stuff and maybe you can make a deal with him to off load it.....

Showed no difference on my chrono. Certainly not 40-50 fps.

I've run them through my Stock 2 without issue. 100% ignition, no light strikes.

A 0.358" cast or coated.....yes.

Another tip: I don't change my crimp for different sized bullets. My taper crimp is set about 0.379" to 0.3795". That way I'm good for whatever. A taper crimp shouldn't do anything except remove the flare. It's not holding the bullet. The undersized die takes care of that as far as set-back is concerned.

It's not a lot of flare. It's not a big deal or anything special. You just don't want to scrape the coating during seating or over crimp it during the taper crimp. Just load up some dummies and then pull them with your kinetic puller and inspect the coating. Check for scraping, which would indicate you need a little more flare, and check for a ring embedded in the coating from the taper crimp. No ring or a very slight or faint ring is OK but a very deep ring is likely too much crimp. Adjust as need be and then pull some more to check again. You can have your flare & taper crimp set in under 5 minutes. (I don't change my flare when loading FMJ, just keep it the same.)

^^^This is the best thing to do. You never know what direction you might want to go. When I was new I thought Limited is what I wanted to do. I shot several matches with a double stack 9mm in Limited minor and realized Production is what interested me. I'm glad I didn't buy up front not knowing anything.

In USPSA Limited Division .40 scores "major" and 9mm scores "minor". You'll be at a scoring disadvantage. Initially it might not matter, that's why the suggestions above to just shoot whatever you have for a few matches to learn, but eventually the scoring will matter.

Yes, I have done this. It makes a very, very soft shooting load. Accuracy isn't the best but it's also not the worst. It's going to be dependent on your gun & a lighter recoil spring to have the gun function with the weaker loads. Use a fast burning powder. 380 bullets on 9mm hulls will also make a short OAL and this can sometimes lead to feeding issues. Berry's has a 100 gr 9mm HBRN which allows you to use the soft 380 load data but have a more normal OAL. This is what I currently use for these loads in place of the 380 projectiles I initially started playing around with. (https://www.berrysmfg.com/item/bp-9mm-356-100gr-hbrn) If you aren't wanting to mess around with getting a lighter recoil spring for these loads then just use your normal 115 gr or 124/5 gr 9mm loads and stick one of the 100 gr 9mm HBRN projectiles on top instead of a 380 projectile. It isn't quite as soft this way (with the factory recoil spring) but you'll find that it is still a tremendously soft shooting load. Then load a few at a time in increments downward till you lose gun functionality, but I would predict that with the standard recoil spring still installed you won't be able to work the ladder too far downward.

You can use the doubles.

I load 124/5 gr or 135 gr (0.356") Ibejiheads through all my CZs with no leading whatsoever. The coating is nice & thick & tough. Alex makes high quality bullets. I compete with the 135 gr. You can order different sizes from him. If you slugged at 0.356" then order trial packs of 0.357" or 0.358" and see how they run. BTW: Blue Bullets will size any of their 9mm offerings to 0.356" instead of their standard 0.355". Some are on their "Special Order Profile" page and if what you want is not listed there just call or e-mail Brenda or Nathan prior to ordering and they'll hook you up with whatever you want. They are also high quality bullets. You mentioned having to load the RN profiles Blues short to get them to plunk in the CZ chamber. This is common with European CIP chambers. Try the 125 gr or 135 gr truncated cones as that profile is short chamber friendly.

The extractor doesn't really slide over the rim of the brass. The rim of the brass slides under the extractor as the slide returns to battery. So, I wouldn't worry about polishing the face of the extractor. First thing to check is to see how dirty the extractor channel/cavity is. They can get really packed with carbon and not allow the extractor spring to pivot the front of the extractor inwards fully. If you have non-chlorinated brake cleaner, clean out all around the extractor channel. Be liberal with the cleaner and spray the heck out of it. If you don't happen to have non-chlorinated brake cleaner handy then try some spray lube you might have handy, like Rem Oil. I'd try this first before moving forward with spring replacement.

Just have your leade throated.

What? Pull the handle down, raise the press, plenty of room.