George16

I installed a Shooter’s Connection slide racker on my CM and TSO. It’s angled and mount on the left side of the slide. It’s only $24.99 plus shipping. Slide Racker

I engraved my name, phone number and the mag number on my mags using a cheap engraver I bought from hobby lobby. Engraver

I don’t have any issues with mine. I grinded about 2-3 mm off of the stock TSO mag release before tapping and drilling it for the installation of the shadow 2 pad. By grinding off 2-3mm, the height of the mag release with the shadow 2 pad installed is the same as the stock TSO mag release height. stock mag release grounded down, drilled, tapped and roll pin installed. You’ll notice the checkering is gone on the TSO release. Shadow 2 pad installed

I Dry Fire daily and go to the range 1-2 times a week for live fire.Retired life is nice since I can go to the range anytime.

Yup. The Shadow 2, TS, TSO and CM uses the same floating trigger pin. I made the same mistake of buying a TSO specific trigger pin when I already had a spare for my Shadow 2. Oh well, it doesn’t hurt to have an extra in case I break one.

The primers are getting wedge or stuck into the decapping pin and so it doesn’t drop like it’s supposed to. Take the sizing die and check the decapping pin and make sure it’s not so pointed wherein it’ll get itself stuck into the primer when it tries to push the primer out of the case.

The new MPX PCC has an improved charging handle. It’s designed like an NLA/Raptor to protect the receiver. A friend just picked up one last week and it’s fun too shoot. The slimmed down mlok handguard feels great too compared to the old ones. I mounted a crimson Trace green laser on mine in addition to a 6 MOA slide ride and a red dot mounted on a 45* warne mount. Also bought some spare parts from ILWT such as firing pin and springs, gas rings etc.

The 19 round mag is the same as the 17 with the exception of the base pad. The base pad adds 2 rounds to make it 19 whereas the 17 mag base pd doesn’t add any.

Email them again. I think they already have a distributor over there.

I’m not sure if the preB disco is the correct one to install for the Shadow 2. I bought the T5 disco from CGW and that’s what I installed on mine. It only required very minor fitting and after it was installed, everything worked perfectly.

Congrats on your stage win. Looks great to me. Just shoot it that way and don’t worry too much about it.

The longest I was able to load my CM without any problems was around 1.152-1.154”. I’m using a 10# Wolff spring for my 124 Gr PD JHP with 6.51 Gr of CFE pistol at around 169 - 171 pf. For 115 Gr JHP, I’m loading it with 7.5 Gr of CFE pistol yielding about 171 - 173 pf. if it works, it works. It doesn’t matter if it’s backwards.

You can go to your local Target store’s arts and crafts section and find different sizes and colors of masking tapes. We buy black masking tape from our local Target store.

This is eaxactly what I mean. Too many interpretations when it’s clear in the diagram which is T1, T2 and T3. If you read and look at the diagram wherein it shows the exact specs of the classifier, it shows T1-T3 from left to right. If you shot the left target first, that becomes T1 and the right target becomes T3. So after doing the reload, you technically have to shoot the left target first s because that became your T1 when you started the classifier. Whats the point of having diagrams if we don’t adhere to them exactly as illustrated? What if I put the box in front of the left target instead of the middle target as shown in the illustration? Would that be okay?

Because that’s the correct way in doing the El Prez according to this: “El Prez: STAGE PROCEDURE Upon start signal, turn then draw and from Box A engage T1-T3 with only two rounds per target, then perform a mandatory reload and from Box A engage T1-T3 with only two rounds per target.” I have seen many competitors do it like the way you described it but if you read the stage procedure, it actually tells the shooter to do it T1-T3, reload, then shoot T1-T3 again.

Go to Home Depot and buy the 10-32 x 1/2” socket head cap screw. Socket head cap screw

You can get 8 and 9# springs from Wolff. Hopefully everything will turn out good with your gun. Keep us updated.

Email LOK and have him custom make you a pair with the thickness you want. You can ask him if he can make one side thinner/thicker than the other.

This. I tried the 8# spring and while it works with the extended firing pinand reduced firing pin spring, I have to use federal primers which are a pain to find. So I went with the 11.5# from CGW along with the ext firing pinand reduced firing pin spring and it lights off any brand of primers 100%. I even experimented by installing the stock firing pin and stock spring and it too lit off all the primers (CCi, WSP, Fiocchi and Remington) I used with my reloads.

I agree with last cat’s other post about going back to using stock springs in troubleshooting your problem. My CM still uses the stock hammer spring which I think is 16# (stiffer than the 15# spring I have from CGW for my Shadow 2). Firing pin is also stock along with the firing pin spring. The only spring I changed was the recoil spring. I installed a 10# Wolff recoil spring for my 124 Gr PD JHP reloads. I don’t see any need in installing a lighter than stock hammer spring since trigger pull weight is already light. Mine came from the factory with a trigger pull of 1# 3.5 ozs. Check and clean the firing pin channel with a swab soak with acetone or isopropyl alcohol to get rid of all the crud. By the way, the longest spring is 11#, shortest is 16# and in between is 13#.

Swager, dedicated tool head for depriming brass prior to tumbling/cleaning/polishing so you can clean the primer pockets. I had been using H335 with 55 Gr Hornady FMJ BT for 3 gun and plinking. I tried Varget but it fills up the case really good but otherwise a very good powder to use.

Yes I did. I removed the factory X5 release so I can drill and tapped a hole for an M3 screw on it so I can mount the shadow 2 pad. It it actually feels like a shadow 2 and TSO mag release now. It’s very nice and easy to do as long as you have a carbide drill bit and a drill press. I did the same thing to my TSO last year. I have to grind off 3mm from the factory TSO mag release because it’s too long/high with the pad installed. thanks.

Since my Shadow 2 has a mag release pad and I installed one on my TSO, I decided to do the same thing on my X5 mag release. I drilled and tapped the mag release to accept an M3 screw using a carbide drill bit. I used a Shadow 2 mag release pad. The mag release is made of hardened steel so make sure you use a carbide drill bit if you decide to do the mod. Anyway, here are some pics: I had to grind the Shadow 2 pad to clear the grip when depressed to release the mag. So far, it works smoothly and makes it easier to do reloads.

The trigger weight on my TSO hasn’t change that much since I bought it. It started at around 1# 4 oz and now it’s 1# 3.2 ozs. You can buy and install a tanfo sear spring to make the trigger pull heavier if you want to. The tanfo sear spring is about the same size but a little bit stiffer compared to the TSO sear spring. edit: I also modified the mag release by drilling and tapping a 3 mm hole on it so I can install a Shadow pad like this: pad installed or or you can buy the new mag release with a Shadow 2 pad from seboweapons.com

Yes. My drill press has a vise and I also used a 2.5mm carbide drill bit since I have some on hand to make the job a lot easier. For tapping, I also the for the press initially. Sorry to hear about your Amazon experience. I have a bunch of metric tap and dies since I needed them when building my RC race trucks.