RileyLV

But if you really want a solid rest and weight isn't a factor then a microscope stand might be an option: https://www.ebay.com/itm/253257065011?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649

The RRS tripods are great and I have two of them but for your use, if weight doesn't matter too much, you can take a look on eBay for an older Gitzo 5 Series. They are very solid, a few pounds heaver than RRS. If a few pounds of weight matter then the RRS is a great choice. An older Gitzo 5 series will be $200-$300 and more solid than the RRS, a new RRS would be much more costly too. You can check the RRS online catalog.

Smart!

Probably that was it. I was using new brass.

This looks like a good solution to a lot of configuration problems.

Tighten the clutch and see if that helps.

Just a comment: I just loaded 2,000 38SC last week using Federal primers and had no flips at all.

I bought a 1050 and ran it briefly before adding a Mk7. The combo is just great. When it's set up right you can just push a button and select the speed and it takes off. The biggest problem is keeping the primer magazine, bullet feeder and case feeder filled.

I have the Howard Leight and Peltors but the MSA's are the most effective and comfortable muffs that I have used.

So glad to read that someone else feels that way!

Unless it was designed this year then maybe it would be a 2217.

I recently purchased a Dillon 1050 with casefeeder and bullet feeder and would like to contact someone experienced with the 1050 that could configure it properly for me in Las Vegas. I will be very glad to pay for this assistance. Please send me a private message and I will get back right to you.

Take a photo of it and send the photo with a description to Steve at: sbarnett@sbfgllc.com.

Barrel length? Single or Double Triggers? Boxlock or Sidelock? Lots of them for sale now but the value depends on condition and other factors. Check with Tony Galazan or Steve Barnett, they both handle English doubles and are experts or you can look on their websites for prices or just call them with a good description and ask what it's worth/ At the present time, and for the last 5 years or so, the high end shotgun market has been flooded due to the ongoing liquidation of a huge collection from the estate of a magazine publisher. I don't think Frank's name adds any value.

There are good, inexpensive lasers built like shotgun shells for this specific purpose.

If your eyes are "cross dominant" take a small piece of semi transparent tape and place it across the top of your shooting glasses on the cross dominant side so that when you mount the gun the tape partially obstructs that eye. (if you mount the gun right handed you will put the tape on the left lens of your shooting glasses.

If you are traveling to a competition in a country where english is not the native language it is helpful to carry an invitation or program with you (in addition to the local permits, if applicable).

This might be of interest Sarge, http://www.gunnuts.net/2013/03/27/so-you-want-to-be-a-sponsored-shooter-part-1/ http://www.gunnuts.net/2013/03/29/so-you-want-to-be-a-sponsored-shooter-part-2-getting-a-sponsorship/

It's not the arrow it's the Indian!

If the gun fits you and the beads are unobtrusive (like just grey or small white beads), just learn to mount the shotgun naturally (with the beads lined up) and look at the target and you will be fine.

Too much, or unnatural, pressure on your cheek is likely to result in the stock "bumping" into your cheekbone which will contribute to flinching.

Shotguns need to fit the person naturally when mounted. The middle bead and end bead alignment is an important element in quick and efficient mounting, not as an aid to aiming at the target, but as a confirmation that the stock is correct for the shooter and that the shooter has mounted the gun correctly. If the stock doesn't fit the person then proper sight alignment is difficult to achieve quickly. When the gun fits the shooter, the mid sight should line up with half of the front bead. It is best if the mid sight is a small, unobtrusive round sight, and the front sight is similar but somewhat larger. The optimum situation is when the gun is mounted and the shooter's cheek properly and naturally contacts the stock, proper alignment of the two sights is achieved and in this case the shooter is able to focus on the target without wasting time focusing on the sights to check alignment. Fiber optic and more colorful front sights are counterproductive in that they will tend to attract the attention of the shooter and the shooter will focus on the sight then the target and refocusing takes time and slows down target acquisition. The optimum situation is that the shotgun comes naturally to shooting position, the cheek is on the stock with the sights properly aligned and the target is in sight throughout the process without refocusing between the sights and the target.

How do you like your Mark7, how long did your original setup take and do you have to fiddle around with it or does it just keep cranking out ammo?

What would you say are the variables that make your handloads superior to good commercial ammo? Are they limited to choice of powder and bullet or are there others?