mpeltier

its the DUST------sorry, I couldn'y resist. From whats been posted I would suspect bolt/carrier first. have you changed gas rings and checked for smooth operation of the bolt? Clean and lube, then try factory ammo and it will probably work.

I never cared for the tacticool flip up scope thingys. For 3-gun scopes i like it simple and not there when you shoot kinda covers. The neoprene "Scopecoat" covers are the ticket for my Meopta. And it covers the whole scope for protection.

Angie and the monster Grendel were the only entertaining parts of this movie for me. I don't care for SHREk like cartoons and found the quality of the CG to be very inconsistant.

I just did a little math to put this in perspective. The average local match for me costs currently $46.60. This is for ammo, entry fee, gas to get there,and snacks at the range. A year ago the same cost me $37.45. A difference of $9.15. I also play golf occasionally and SCUBA dive from time to time as well as ride motocross. Each of those cost at least double. Im not ready to hang up the blaster over $9.00. How much does high speed internet access cost each month?

I prefer the IPSC rule of 9 to start max but no restriction on what it can hold. I had a Rem 1100 that would hold 8 brandX shells, problem is with BrandX it was a jam-o-matic. A different brand shells functioned perfectly but was an 1/8th inch shorter and 9 would fit the tube. Benelli's pose a similar problem in that older ones came from the factory with the ability to be ghost loaded, new ones must be modified. The capacity thing should definately be a stipulated number not an equipment limitation in MHO. Most RO's I know can count to at least 10.

I have been shooting this game scince 2000. I do not let it consume my life, rather I consume it to energize my life. Zeal is defined as purpose on fire, and that describes my match performance. I always keep my equipment clean, lubed and in 100% condition. I dry-fire as often as I can manage. Once a piece of equipment is good to go I leave it alone. when its time to shoot a stage-------I just relax and let it happen. Win or lose its all good (winning is just more good)

I had a similar experiance as chuck but on a tile floor. Ruined the top turret cap the scope and LaRue mount were unfazed. still held zero. I sent the scope to Meopta and they repaired the turret assembly so I could remove the cap. No charge either even though I explained it was my fault.

When I was looking for a new video camera (going on my 6th one now) I had a few things to consider. Image quality, color reproduction and compatibility with my computer were the top three. I settled for a Panasonic with a Leica lens and a 3CCD image sensor using Mini DV tapes. It was a little more expensive than most others but well worth it as the image is much clearer than others, and the tape(s) are my back-up/archive. You will need the proper cabling and software for your computer as they usually dont come with it (for video editing by PC). The software I use is marketed by Sony, called Vegas movie studio+DVD and it is amazing. Finished DVD's are like a profesional product complete with chapter selection and all. Hope some of this helps. Mark

Welcom to the forum Red There has been a lot of info on Benelli M1/M2 shotguns. I recomend trying the search function. Also contact Benny Hill of Triangle shooting sports 361-241-1091. He is tops with putting together a Benelli. by the time you get all the parts and try to assemble it yourself it will still only be 90% of what you need. From Benny it comes out of the box 100%. Following are the specs of my M2. M2, 21" with comfort tech stock Hi vis red fiberoptic front sight with white rear notch in rib for slug shooting Progressive machine titanium bolt handle (painted black as the glare of the silver was distracting to me) Lightened bolt (also welded up for ghost loading) Arredondo extended bolt release Carlson m2 crio tube, extended (not ported) skeet choke SRM mag tube (the Nordic tube is nicer but was not available when I built my gun) Relievd and polished feed ramp for slug feed reliability ( a recent mod, "Thanks Kurt Miller")

Bigsaxdog You beat me to it... Thanks to all the staff and RO's for a terrific and first class match. I will be back. And a special hats off to you Mr. Hearn for going way above the call of duty for us parched Florida boys. Mark Peltier

Well if it degrades sccuracy my well used 1st generation kimber hasn't got that memo yet. At over 25,000 rounds it still shoots 1 1/4" 25yd groups all day. And I have always taken it appart by turning the bushing as stated above. I believe the barrel will wear out elsewhere from shooting, before you wear it out by conventional dissassembly. The gunsmith in question was probably refering to a completely hand fit uber high end custom pistol and not a factory mass produced variety???? It may be that there would be a degrading of accuracy in those types of guns, but is there any loss of acceptable accuracy? I.E. maybee my gun originaly shot 1 1/8" groups.

This is a stainless gun I Duracoated. Has held up better than expected.

I have no hands on with the saiga but a shooter at our club has brought his out a few times and he has a pretty slick way of reloading his mags. At least it looks fast. What he does is this, prior to wrestling with the mag in his gun he pulls the fresh mag from the pouch and using this as a lever he hits the mag release and sweeps the old mag out of the magwell with the new one, then the new mag is inserted into the shotgun. I dont know if this puts any abnormal wear n tear on anything but it seems to work for him.

I think the open competitors would be ok with this method. I as a Tactical/optic division competitor would not care for it. I couldnt care less how I did against the open shooters or the Iron shooters. My personal feeling is that divisions typically compete together for efficiency of running the match. I dont think there should be an overall match winner in a tournament hosting multiple divisions. With complete result only the top competitor appears to be first. "if you aint first your last", I hate bieng last. The prize table order is not very important, I think that should be a lottery. ( as you can guess im probably not one of those top 20-----yet)

Archery sights was kinda my inspiration for this sight as i have been into archery for most of my life. And they are incredibly accurate. This is much more compact than most archery sights i have seen though. There is a little adjustment by screwing the fiberoptic pins in or out prior to securing the fiber, but there is no need as the flashlight mount is machined precise enough that as long as the pins are centered in each ring you are minute of A zone for the distance this sight is intended. Most important to me was getting the post ligned up with the bore and straight up and down when aiming thru it, this it does.

So I was scanning other threads for ideas on secondary irons to use for up close in conjunction with a 4X ACOG, nothing really appealed to me and that got me thinking (acording to my wife that can be very dangerous). This is what I came up with for short and quick within say 0 - 30 yds. It started life as a LaRue offset flashlight mount, about 2 inches of fiber-optic, and an inch and a half of threaded rod. When mounted on the front gas block rail it is in just the right spot to alighn perfectly with the shooting eye with juust a slight lift of the shooting elbow, no head movement at all. Really slick.

"I dont need a gun------Ive got a donk!" (quote from the movie crockodile dundee, if you didn't know) I guess everyone down under must have a donk...

I agree with Jim, once a popper has been hit it is not the same popper. A reduced power factor calibration load may help the outcome in some cases but not all. Maybee the shooter should be afforded the opportunity to reset the poppers himself before he shoots to insure they are calibrated to his satisfaction at this point a call for calibration would not be neccessary or allowed. This may however slow things down or cut into the shooters prep time. Unfortunatly not all folks resetting are as privy to the setting of the popper and just flip them up and walk away. Or maybe someone the shooter trusts could be designated the steel resetter. To often I have witnessed the attitude that there is a chance ellement to steel falling with a solid hit. It should never be a by chance element, they should be calibrated the same for everyone. The solution is finding a way to minimize (preferably eliminate) the improperly reset steel, Once it is set and shot at it is too late, only compromises remain.

I have one about two months old. I also have a p16-40 limited about two years old. The P16 was and is flawless from day one. The P18 had numerous issues starting with the first magazine of ammo thru it and took a bit of work to get reliable. The two problems were a constant failure to feed, which was caused by a tight and rough power extractor, and the slide would lock back with a round still in the mag (cured with a new slide stop). How this gun left QC is a mystery to me. I have scince customized both with the replacement fo most of the fire control parts and they are both great shooters now.

Round count: Rifle 36 (to 42) Pistol 53 (to 90) Shotgun 84 plus 17 slugs Bummer on the rifle round count, Thats less than half of the rifle shooting in 2005 or 2006 (97 and 117 respectively). Any Idea why the big reduction in rifle shooting? Pistol and shotgun are in the same ballpark as previous years.

Who cares. The legal comps work so good I cant see any advantage if one is a wisker oversize anyhow, I think were splitting hairs here ( Its the man not the machine, right?). But we do need clear rules to stay consistant. If someone shows up with a comp the size of a coke can well, someone will say something. No need to verify for compliance IMHO.

The preval sprayer allows you to get great results. The finish is as good as many factory finishes. I have a Para-coat p-16 and used to have a Kimber CDP with their finish and my 1911's finish is smoother and has proven more durable than either of the others. I highly recomend both the preval unit and Duracoat. Spray something for practice to develop a feel for it though before you attempt a big project.

I have used it several times and it is ok stuff. I have also used Duracoat on many projects and find it to be the most durable of any spray on finish. It is a two part, mix and spray product. Surface prep with any finish is the most important thing. My recomendation is when you feel it is clean enough, get a new rag and clean it all again. And try not to handle cleaned parts with your bare hands. I use a spray bottle from home depot called a preval sprayer that comes with a glass mixing bottle and a pressurized screw on sprayer. Works great for 5 bucks and you throw it away when you are done. Attached is a picture of my 1911 that is Duracoat magpull dark earth with black controls, sorry for the purplish tint to the photo. it looks a lot better in person.

Are you finding this with the final loaded cartridge or inspection prior to loading? I did some investigating to see if this was occuring as a result of the reloading process or the brass was bad to start with. In my case it is something that occurs during reloading. I found this out by using all once fired brass thru my pistol and case guaging the brass prior to reloading. I only used brass that guaged perfectly (most did) and still I have a 15-20 percent failure of the reloaded components. I believe the failure is due to the thickness of the brass and bullet combined and slightly offset to the rest of the case ( the bulge if you will is not uniform all the way around the case) which gives the appearance the rim is not concentric to the case when inserted into the case gage. I am using Montana gold 9mm 147gr and Winchester brass. But it is this way with all other brass and bullet weights I have tried.

I have had the same experiance with my SDB and have found a slightly deformed case head to be ths culprit in many cases, I look them over and hit the spot with a small file and thay drop in the guage. Also I run them thru the press at stages 3 and 4 a second time and that seems to work on about half of the rejects I get.