L3324temp

I don't think you will find many on this site that are that particular about brass. Most are using range brass they pickup or once fired mixed brass from the classified section.

I have the non-roll pin model and it came out without too much trouble. The key for me was to use a very short punch to get it moving.

Inquiring minds want to know.

I have recently placed and received orders for bullets from Montana Gold and Bayou bullets. Checking the Montana Gold page on Saturday morning/afternoon seems to work well. As far as primers go, I don't know what to say. They seem to be the hardest component to find right now.

The APEX CAEK is great as well as Dawson grip tape. I'd only spend the money on the extractor if you are having issues. While I did, many people don't. Some are running lighter recoil springs but that would depend on if you are reloading and to what PF.

650 all the way. My main reason was the safety of the auto index and a lockout die. It also saved me money by buying once. If I started with a 550, I would have sold it at a loss at some point and upgraded to the 650.

100 percent solved my issues.

I ordered a 650 40 cal conversion kit on 5/13/13 and it was delivered on 6/6/13.

They are currently in stock at Montana Gold. http://montanagoldbullet.com/index.php/40-180gr-jhp-98.html

I don't find my sharp at all. Perhapps they vary gun to gun?

I own and recommend the Trojan.

124 JPH would be my vote as well.

My M&P never really liked 147's. It would be great if this fixed it up.

I have near 10k through an M&P pro 9. I had to put in an APEX extractor early on. Other than that no unexpected issues.

I run a 13lb recoil spring in my M&P Pro 9 and change it every 4k. At some point after that the gun will start to come out of battery when I holster.

I like Nordic. If you go to their website and select the number of rounds you want to add to your gun it will list the tube length in inches. You can then measure your gun to see which will match up with your barrel best if that is your goal.

I went 650 over 550 for the auto index and the ability to run a lock-out or powder check die. I feel both are important safety features for me. The caliber conversion time on the 650 is not an issue. Cost is the only real disadvantage to the 650 IMO.

I run Lee dies for 9mm as well. I get a lot of 9 major brass and when using the Lee dies they all chamber properly. With the Dillon dies many will fail to chamber.

If I ever switch from dry to wet it will only be from the health concerns of dealing with the dust.

FP or HP here.

I reload 300rds at a time and put them in heavy plastic bags about the size of 1 gal zip lock bags. They get labeled and put into a 50cal can and they layer well.

The local matches here are still well attended, maybe down 10% at most.

I get about 5 thousands on a 650 loading 9 with mixed brass. It doesn't bother me for USPSA use.

Thank you very much for providing this data! From that Hodgdon data that look very close to their max load (again this isn't data for CP) of 1151 ft/s. Would backing off ~10% to 3.8 grains from your load be your suggested starting point? Or do you think that 3.9 grains might be a safe enough starting point? It's always good to work up the load with your gun. Plated data is somewhere between lead and jacketed. And with no data on Hodgdons website specifically for platted bullets, it is hard to say what the actual max load is. My OAL is also longer than the lead or jacketed data that is listed which provides some safety.

Here is the data: 4.2 Titegroup 115 Plated Berry 1.142 OAL 1143.6 fps (5 shot average) 131.5 pf This was out of a 5" M&P Pro with the factory barrel.