HesedTech

Personally, unless accuracy is an issue (25 yards) developing a load which works in all your guns really is the way to go. Because a PCC has a longer barrel you can use less powder to achieve minor PF. While it really doesn't matter that much with pistol rounds, because of the longer barrel you could use a slower powder.

The Hornady seating die has a collar like the Redding Precision that helps straighten the bullet as it seats it. The micrometer addition makes it really easy to change depth. It can also crimp, but that does not need to be used and I don't recommend it. I use the Dillon dies for other calibers, just settled on the Hornady for volume with greater accuracy. The Dillon taper crimp die, in my opinion, makes the smoothest crimp out there. It just happens the load/tool head I was posting about has the Lee taper crimp die on it.

No suggestions, but went through some Chrono data on three guns of mine working up a load. Using just 5 shots per gun, 147 FN Blues, .355, 3.63 grains of WAC, ZSR primers, OAL 1.12” +- .005,” andall range brass, @ 55F Stock 2 SD = 10.34 PF 129.18 Tanfo Lim Pro SD = 15.4 PF 131.97 Shadow 2 SD = 6.3 PF 131.45 The OAL was determined for the Shadow 2. The Tanfos have reamed barrels and can load longer 1.14” Note, WAC is not considered a “fast” powder, probably slightly slower than your CFE. Loaded on a Dillon 750, Hornady seating die with micro adjust, and Lee taper crimp, not the FCD (crimped to minimize dent in bullet). I suspect there’s something in your loading process, like bullets not seated as straight as possible, over crimping, using the Lee FCD, or OAL bad length. Check 25 yard accuracy.

The Limited, Limited Pro and Stock 2 do not have the rail on the dust cover so holsters for those specific guns don’t fit those with a rail. Holsters for the Stock 3 and Master with the rail will fit Limited and Stock2. A holster specifically for the Stock 2 is too short for the Limited, but it depends on who made it. Confusing.

I don't know about the GX, but it does matter. Additionally the poly frame ones don't fit in the same holsters. The OP wants a holster with better retention than the basic competition one. Call or email them.

I use the iOS app with my iPhone and it has both Arm and Disarm on the app. I will state the app is not the most user friendly and takes moving around a bit to find this. If I did more chrono work I would switch to the new Garmin. Everything I read and see about it is far more user friendly than the LabRadar set up.

No that's not how it works. Slower powders are often less dense and require more volume and weight to attain the same velocity. Example: "fast powder" may use 3.0 grains while a "slower" powder needs 3.6 to achieve the same velocity. Now throw in barrel length and bullet weight to your mix. A slow powder may not have a long enough barrel to achieve the acceleration needed to for the desired velocity. A heavier bullet may cause the load to exceed pressure limits for a load which works with a lighter bullet. If you were shooting an open gun with a comp a slower powder produces more gas at the barrel end allowing the comp to be more effective. What's the point? You pick your reloading formulas based on what is desired for the shooting. This is the joy of reloading. If you want to achieve a 130 PF it can be done with both "slow" and "fast" powders. It all depends on the combination of bullet, gun and what you want to see and feel when you send it.

If your dry fire is all about gun manipulation and speed, then the times will be quite different. Here's the best video I have seen about dry vs live fire and how to use it.

The aftermarket shell plates basically improve on the machining and possible alloys of the factory plates. Depending on the aftermarket manufacturer they add some little features to help with the insertion of the brass, flex and rotation of the plate. When an automated press is running over 2000 rh precision becomes a bit more important. Again, my personal opinion is factory works fine for the normal reloader.

Depends on what you are trying to accomplish. The stock plate works fine for most, however if you are automated, or having powder spill problems while indexing an aftermarket plate will help. FFB stuff is well machined.

Could you explain your experience a bit further? My experience with both hammers in Shadow 2 doesn't match with this. What is different are the sears. The CGW adjustable sear allows the safety to be engaged hammer down or fully cocked, just don't pull the trigger with hammer down because it can damage the sear/safety engagement nub. Having used both shop's, parts my preference is the full CGW Pro polished set for the Shadow 2.

If they shoot okay with the load you posted. it looks like you're good to go.

Double Alpha makes one which works okay (I have one, but went back to hand feeding). The issue with a case feeder on the 550 is the case insertion just isn't as nice as the 750. It will feed brass faster than you can hand load it, however you will need to occasionally correct the brass before pulling the handle. I believe Dillon's comes with the electric feeder while DAA's has the tubes. DAA will feed 223. Neither is a perfect solution. Check them out.

Must be a typo, did you mean 1.08? That is where I find that brand of bullet to OAL. Also 1.18" won't feed in my CZ mags, too long. About 1.15" is max.

Maybe is the answer. Rifle sizing is a bit more particular than pistol. After cleaning and sizing your unloaded brass should case gauge for both length and head space. If after reloading that same brass fails to case gauge then something in your process has deformed the brass. It could be too much pressure on the neck from the powder funnel, crimp die set wrong (if you crimp) or even the bullet seating die not feeding the bullet properly into the neck. For the AR platform the OAL will most likely not be driven by the chamber and the depth of the throat. The magazine is normally the limit for OAL. I would recommend for your AR getting a small base sizing die. This helps immensely and don't forget trim for length after sizing. Remember to check loads for over pressure signs if you are loading at or near max. Unlike Pistols, individual rifle chambers will affect pressures. Have fun. Reloading is a great hobby by itself.

I don't shoot a Glock in competition, so I have to defer to those who do. However, I purchased the GPT for my 19 Gen 5 and frankly, my polished bar with a Ghost connector was far better than the GPT. I have a Timney with the JG shoe and spring in a G17 G3 and it is very nice. For competition I have no idea about reliability. As far as comparing to Shadow 2, well it's a Glock. As always, good shooters will perform well with it.

223 works best with the small rifle plate. 44 Mag uses the large pistol plate. The pistol plates will not feed 223 properly. 40SW feeds fine in the DAA plate. I never tried it, but putting a spacer under the DAA plate may make it work for 44 Mag.

Recommending a $2500+ press and expensive conversion kits for someone who loaded on a single stage for 20 years, only on the Benos forums. Yes. Spend the money. A person will spend far more “working” themselves into a full progressive press than just making the investment upfront. Wasted thousands on economic approaches and I should have made the leap based on others recommendations. PS A 750 is not $2500. Buy once cry once.

Do not stop at Lee, Frankford, or the 550. Go right to 750 or Mark 7. Why? Parts, service and reputation for ease of use.

Like the bigger brother, there are internal parts (besides the main spring) which need to be polished or changed if you want to optimize the trigger pull. Check with Cajon GW if you don't want to do the work yourself.

Lots of info here about the S2 and how to tune it. Just dropping in an 11 lb hammer spring will not make you happy. The first thing you will notice is light strikes. I love the gun and highly recommend it, however it has to be tuned and polished. It will cost you a few extra $$ to bring it up to a really nice competition gun. Both Cajon and CZ Custom can do the work for you. Afterwards you can use a 11.5 - 12 lb hammer spring have a 6 lb DA and 2.5 lb SA with a short reset and almost zero trigger play in SA. Enjoy

Not sure if he has the right length rod for the Hunter, but you should try the Sprinco system instead of the buffer. Sprinco USA -- Recoil Solutions

From the web site: https://www.mightyarmory.com/pages/intructions MIGHTY ARMORY TNT TAPER CRIMP DIE INSTRUCTIONS Step 1: Clean die bore before use. Step 2: Turn the die into your press tool head until mouth makes contact with plate or shell holder. Step 3: Lock it down. Step 4: For the 9mm / 38 and 40 S&W / 10mm: Raise your die to set proper case height crimp. The TNT die can be used without lube. A quality case lube reduces friction on ram, AP & Automated presses. This reduces heat and decreases pressure. For best results, use 99.9% alcohol and PEG Lanolin mixed at 10:1. Spray cases and let dry for 30 minutes. PEG 75 is water based and wipes away with ease.

That's not unusual, and for normal 223 AR shooting the concentric won't make as much a difference because of the jump. However, that is a lot of wobble. Try the floating die head if you can.