HesedTech

Yes. There are GSs who will weld the slide holes up and re-machine the mount. Check with CGW or Patriot Defense.

Pull and clean your extractor. That is unless you actually have the spent round extracted and now two rounds are feeding up? Often a "double feed" is a failure to extract spent brass properly. Or a round nose dived/stove piped. A picture from you would help. PF shouldn't cause a "double feed," but a change in OAL, bullet profile... could change the way it's feeding. Are your mags clean, do you clean them after dumping them into the dirt, or how about the mag springs and followers? Since Glock mags are basically plastic there's no feed lip adjustment.

The problem is how to make a 140mm length which will be strong enough to hold 25 rounds under the pressure of the spring. There is only so much space to cram 20 rounds on top of a follower and spring. I've gotten 24 + 1 crammed in with thin followers, but it doesn't always feed the first round because of the tension. 23+1 works fine, so plan your stage accordingly. One extra won't win the stage for you.

The closed base helps to prevent leading of comp is main reason. The second is consistency of bullet and longer bearing surfaces makes for better accuracy.

Longevity - coated bullets should have far less wear on the barrel than FMJ. However, poorly coated bullets can lead barrel sooner. Accuracy - for action pistol not an issue at all. Because a FMJ bullet can be more precisely made they can be slightly more accurate. If volume is your need, and you don’t have a comp, coated is the way to go. If you are concerned about the quality of the coating do the hammer smash test. If the coating stays on you’re good to go.

The only issues I've had are in the base pads. Henning extended base pads do not have as much angle in them where they meet with the mag well, and may not allow full insertion of the mag into the well. Taran Tac work fine in both. Because the grip angle is slightly different the mag angle will also be different. What this means is the bullet lines up slightly different with the feed ramp. Because of this a bullet profile that works well in the CZ may not feed as well in the TF. Some tuning maybe required. It will depend on the quality of the machining of the TF. CZs tend to have better quality control.

Okay here are the differences (SF TF - CZ S2) 1. Mags the same, no problems. 2. Mag pouches same. 3. Holster different. Depending on which is your primary gun the holster will either be tight or loose. 4. Make sure ammo chronos within PF. 5. Grip and sight angles slightly different. 6. TF Parts easy to get in the USA through Patriot Defense. 7. CZ Shadow 2 has a far better DA draw than TF. 8. Trigger angles similar if you get the CGW RDR kit trigger and the TF Extreme DA/SA trigger. 9. Draw is similar. Remember this is a hobby and if you want these guns get them and enjoy. It's also a great excuse to buy new gear!

I've set up a few Shadow 2s with this kit and swear by it. The first thing to know is the foot on the bottom of the disco is supposed to ride on the frame, it's part of the DA process. This is why I personally polish the bottom of the foot on the disco and make sure the frame is smooth. CZC actually makes the contact point/foot on the Disco where it touches the frame a bit small to reduce drag. The top of the disco can rub the sear cage. Again I polish the sear cage where it can makes contact with the disco. Additionally, that is also the location where dirt and grit can rub between the sear cage, disco, and trigger bar. If you didn't polish these surfaces first you will see where they contact after a few hundred rounds. Polish the rub areas to make a butter smooth contact. So far the only filing/Dremel work I've ever done on the CGW disco is making sure the SA will reset and have the amount of take up I like. I do polish the foot and the rear face after adjusting/fitting for the SA. Hand fitting is part of the joy of perfecting your gun. If you are not sure about doing the work and not willing to buy replacement parts for any accidental extra removal of material, find a local GS or send it to CGW or CZC.

Occasionally measure crimp, but only to see how my plunk test and crimp dent worked out. Typically it ends up less than .380 after finding what works. I set bell visually not by measurement. The crimp is always to remove bell and then plunk test when setting up a load. Did you plunk test the ammo in your 92? If so, did you first try to increase crimp or decrease OAL before posting this? I'm sure you know each gun has slightly different chambers. Personally I load for my most restrictive and then the ammo runs on all my guns. This isn't PRS or F1 shooting, so accuracy is relative to hitting a 6" target every shot at 25 yards.

I have both. A TF is NOT a backup gun for a competitor shooting a Shadow 2. The grip angle and height of dot is enough different to slow you down. Plus holster is different. If you want a backup, buy the identical gun and setup.

I have a small mill and drill press, so yes I could do it. However, I imagine the OP does not have access to such tools.

Ammo or Class $? The answer is both. Dry Fire will improve gun handling skills, but if you throw Ms and Ds all the time it won't make you an M. Every M/GM I know sent a lot of stuff down range. What classes will do is answer the questions about how to practice for matches. Each instructor has their own strengths, but unless one actually practices what they are taught with live and dry fire, it will only marginally improve your match day. I've asked multiple National and world level GMs and they all said the same thing about ammo, you have to practice the skills with live fire, confirming what was practiced in dry. I would guess on average they went through at least 50K rounds a year, mostly in practice. The question really is how big a budget of practice time are shooters willing to commit to improvement? I took Steve Anderson's Mental Management class (it was worth the money) and he starts with the idea, "what's the payoff for doing this?"

Yep. But small mm bits normally have to be ordered. A proper drill press and vise is needed to make nice holes.

We found some ejectors need to be kept clean and even rounded /polished a bit at the hook or not all rims will slide up under them properly as they feed in. I’ve sen it happen on Tanfos (one of mine) and 3 CZ Shadow 2s owned by others I shoot with. Sometimes polishing, or at least cleaning the bolt face helps with feeding.

There's the key. Hardened metal requires more than high speed steel bits to cut properly. It may be easier to get the bits than TF parts.

I've loaded 10K of these and will not buy them again. The most non-fire (a round 1-2 per 1000) I have ever had no matter how deep or what gun I use. Just not reliable enough for competition and very annoying in practice.

Tanfo limited should have come "stroked", but that probably won't fix the issue. Check to see if the mag when seated is loose and moves up and down. The quality of the machining isn't always consistent. If it's loose check the mag release and see if you have a worn and thin mag retaining nub on the release. TFs have two nubs, a thicker and thinner one. The Factory seems to have put the thinner one on all newer guns as a simplified standard. See attached images. Depending on the magazine you are using 1.16 is about max for 9mm. If you can get 38super mags that may help. You didn't say, but if you converted a 40 slide to 9MM you must have the 9MM extractor installed, not the 40/10mm. Just some ideas based on difficulties and solutions I have experienced working with TFs. BTW both of these sound like a loose mag issue, which why I suggested you check the mag release and mag fit.

You bet. Glad it worked out. Because of the price I considered buying one to see if it could be tuned to a nice running USPSA gun. Checked with Patriot Defense about milling for a direct mount SRO optic and it turns out the slide is too narrow. It does look good though, let the forum know how it works out for you.

I looked at your pic and video. Several possibilities; With the slide on your milling may have somehow interfered with the trigger bar. Are screws sticking down in under the slide? The new trigger may have changed the ratio of the bar movement and you just aren't getting it to come back properly and push the sear up. If you changed the slide bar lift spring to a lighter one it may not be pushing the bar up sufficiently. If you took off too much material from the slide bar lobes (on top) you may have cause some issues. Did you check the forward trigger stop screw? If the trigger is too far back it may do what you posted. If the forward trigger stop screw is completely back and the trigger is resting against the frame you will have to trim the front of the trigger down to allow for proper forward movement. From your pics it's hard to actually diagnose the issue. What I recommend is you reinstall the factory trigger and see if that resolves the issue. Next run the gun without the optic and plate mounted to the gun. Basically go back to stock and add things to see if the problem stops and then reoccurs. Hope this helps, there are rarely true drop in parts. The fun and joy is in making an idea work.

38 SC is easier to build loads for open than 9 mm major. But, if the price is right you have capable gun for open.

Are you in the USA? If you purchase this for a good price and have access to parts it will work fine. However, there are better open guns than TF. Maybe a 2011 build?

Yes there is. More push (faster bullets) more recoil. After loading well over 100K with different weight bullets and powders here's what I have observed. With the same PF I can tell the difference between those bullet weights. Same bullet weight and PF, but different powders (slow vs fast powders), unless you told me I can't tell the difference. One exception between powders, some are cleaner and some are hotter, as in heat. If one shoots a lot between gun cleanings choose a cleaner powder. I like 147s and use mostly Sport Pistol and Clean Shot, both very clean. Auto Comp works, but is very dirty. TG hot and dirty while 244 is just hot. BTW, Accuracy is more gun dependent. My 147s are very accurate out of Shadow 2s, but at minor speeds not so good out of Glock 19 G5. The Glock likes around 1000 FPS no matter which bullet is used to be accurate (yes factory gen 5 barrel). Hope this helps.

No they will not fit on a LF. The mags of the CZ Shadow 2 will fit in a small frame Tanfo, but it is highly unlikely the magwell would come even close to fitting the SF. If you want a magwell go to the Patriot Defense site and buy one that fits, you will be a whole lot happier in the long run.

That's your clue. The FTF issues are often OAL based. If it will plunk, try 1.14"

No The problem isn't the load, it is the new barrel and feed ramp are different than the one you replaced. I saw the very same thing happen at a match with another shooter (same brand of barrel). We compared the strike on the primer between barrels and what we observed is his new barrel was no longer centered over the striker. The barrel was actually higher than the old factory one. This caused the mag to feed ramp to not be aligned properly. The only simple solution is to try different OALs, but I think your problem is the mag is too low relative to the barrel feed ramp. Do the striker test and see if the dimple is in the same area. Additionally mark the feed ramps (clean) with a Sharpie and see where the nose of the bullet is hitting. BTW, unless you are using a massive heavy recoil spring, that load should cause the slide to fully travel. I don't know you GS, however I have had work done in the past and told things ran perfectly and then they didn't at competition speeds. You are the final test of the work done.