HesedTech

Just so everyone is on same page, you are writing about factory ammo in CZ vs reloaded. I have zero problems with any weight bullet in my CZs of all versions because I load the correct OAL for the chamber. No such luxury with factory. In my local area people are having quality issues with 9mm Syntech in many models and manufacturers of guns. OAL too long, accuracy and tumbling of Syntech are common. BTW rowdyb is one of the old established experts here on Enos. I’d listen to him.

I'm sorry I didn't understand what you meant by "fit." If you are asking about setting DA and SA issues My experience with CZs have basically been dropped in without any issues (except the hard to remove pin). However, lot's of experience fitting with Tanfoglios, which have a similar mechanism. Not sure what you actually need to fit but here's a picture which shows which surfaces change what. (Yes it's for a Tanfoglio, but the principals are the same). I do recommend as you work on it do everything in very small increments until you achieve the fit you need. Yes this means repeatedly dismantling the gun. Hope this helps " Installation Directions- Check single action function, first. SA should drop and reset with the slide on. If SA does not break or reset, remove material from angle 1, following the natural curve of the interrupter. This also applies if SA breaks, but does not reset. Check double action function. If DA does not break remove material from angle 2. CAUTION: This is an extremely sensitive part of the process; if you do not feel comfortable attempting this, please have a qualified gunsmith fit this part or send your firearm to Patriot Defense for proper fitting.

The stock pin in the hammer is really hard to punch out. Get the replacement from CGW. Did you check YouTube?

Check with EGW https://www.egwguns.com/pistol-and-red-dot-mounts/pistol-rail-mounts/ They probably have a dove tail that will fit. You may need to contact them with the dimensions.

Send an email to Mark 7 with the question.

The answer is, it really won't change your accuracy... much. In high power rifle the real difference will be found in changing brands of primers. There's lots of testing of this idea on YouTube and worth a watch. Here's a great video from a reloader testing the same brand of primers, CCI. Basically Magnum are harder cups and if you are pushing the max pressures you need to test your loads when changing brands or types.

Try the R5, it tends to be drop in.

Tanfoglios have very strong barrels, and chambers. I reload and have had split cases and never noticed them until cleaning up brass. I have also had case failure at the base and only noticed it because it sounded strange and the brass failed to eject. Again no issues to gun. I convert a Limited to Open Division shooting 9mm Major and at 175 PF not one issue. The gun is tough.

You are pointing out the ridiculous of the 1.5mm measurement used by the OP IPSC's rule and it's only "approximately". Looked up the official rule: It leaves it up to who ever is judging. A lot of room to decide what the gap means. Disconnector - Is mandatory and is checked by: Cocking the hammer, and then Open the slide until the gap between slide and barrel is approximately 1/16” or 1.5mm. ( The best guns fires only with zero gap ) Press the trigger. The hammer should remain cocked. (Any exception must be approved by the IPSC Council and published at the IPSC Website) I hope the OP got his answer about how the system works on a CZ and other with similar mechanisms. And yes, an out of battery discharge is bad (seen the results). However it's a bit hyperbolic to compare the battle ship accident. And yes done with this thread.

Why? Please explain. Have you seen an out of battery in a CZ that was disastrous when the hammer fell? The only out of battery kabooms that destroyed the gun I have personally seen are with plastic striker fired guns. How do you measure those? Oh well this will turn into one of those blocked threads. I'm done.

Maybe that's the intent when it was written. I went and measured my Shadow 2s at what distance the hammer would not drop when the slide is out of battery. The slide was 3.5 mm back when it would not drop with trigger pull. But there's a caveat, the breach was visibly open only 1.5mm. The question then is how and where do they measure and is it consistent across brands of guns? See how ridiculous this rule becomes. But it's the rule if you want to compete. At 1.5mmm gap from the face to the barrel hood on my gun it cannot be measure. Why? Because I can't get even a feeler gauge into the gap properly. I would like to see picture of someone measuring this.

It isn't "clear of the sear", it clears the tab on the sear. In DA the trigger bar is pushing the hammer back (that's why the pull weight is higher) until the disco releases the hammer, while in SA it hits the sear and releases the hammer. The hammer is back and hooked to the sear because the slide (or manually) set it. The sear spring is there to engage the sear into the hammer hooks. If a cocked hammer set in the sear falls when the trigger is pulled and the slide is out of battery only one thing is happening, the trigger bar is pushing the sear up. If your trigger, sear and hammer parts are modified or replaced, the solution is to go back to stock and make changes one by one until you find the what started the issue. The rule isn't really for safety purposes, it's to force competitors into a stock or near stock configuration.

It holds the trigger bar up so it can push the tab on the sear and lift it off the hammer. The bumps on top the trigger bar then ride the grooves on the slide pushing it down below the sear so it can reset. The answer to your question is the slide and the trigger bar aren’t timed to prevent the drop. If you replaced the trigger and done “tuning work” on the trigger bar it’s likely there’s your problem. In DA the disconnector is the part which releases/drops the hammer prior to it fully engaging the sear. It, the disconnector rides up the frame until it comes off the trigger bar and releases/drops the hammer. Here’s a video of how it works.

Get the DAA replacement case feeder plate. Miracle worker! https://www.doublealpha.biz/us/daa-turbo-case-feeder-plate-with-mark7-clutch-adaptor If you are single pass reloading, the decapping pin must be as deep as you can get it on the Dillon die. Since I decap separate from the sizing die all I can say is the wedge shape and a smoothed/polished pin will help. Wait and see what others post.

I started in production when it and Limited were the biggest Divisions and to shoot a dot cost a bunch of money (Open). Now CO is the most fun for the $$ and the most competitive. Typically at local matches we have 2/3s of the shooters in the division. Although I’m seeing many CO shooters moving to LO this year.

You need to shoot more. The guns are too clean and purdy.

Not sure why you're asking. You are one of the more experienced people on this forum. My opinion is the LO Division is a bit odd and basically allows people to shoot a greater variety of guns with slide mounted optics. Personally if I were to start from scratch in the Division and was limited to your gun choices I would get the TS Orange with a milled slide. Why? Because out of the box it has the best goodies. I would have a milled slide over the OR because it is less likely to loosen and the optic is closer to the barrel bore. However if I already had a nice running Shadow 2 I would just run it as is with hammer back safety on. Personally I believe the mag well really doesn't improve the average shooter's scores, but it does look cool. Also modifying it to SAO doesn't improve the SA, but does provide a greater variety of triggers to choose from. If there were unlimited choices and money I would have a custom 2011, maybe Atlas or similar, built for LO.

I agree that nose heavy is an issue. I swapped to a plastic guide rod helped some and exploring some other ideas to balance better. DA not an issue with a little practice (dry and live). I've noticed many (including myself) have more problems with the 2nd and subsequent shots, and it doesn't matter what kind of gun they are using.

Why?

Clever use of the Lee FCD.

Just to point one more thing out, you can't miss a full auto/burst. It is very very obvious.

Not unusual for any autoload gun. I've had this happen with Tanfos, CZs, HK... With extended mags and thin followers most USPSA shooters don't have slide lock on last shot. Comments: 1. If there is an issue with the sear/hammer you may find it out this way. 2.If you have a trigger set screw to adjust reset travel, you may have the reset travel way to close to the wall/bang. 3. You may be riding the trigger more than you think. This can happen when one is charged up during their run. Basically it's a "bump fire." Yes I've seen shooters do that and one in particular quite often. The only thing preventing an AD DQ is he says it's a "make up" shot and is engaging a target. I own 6 Tanfos and after many thousands of rounds none of them auto fire with the trigger pinned to the back. However, I have set the reset travel too tight and bump fired while testing. Best advice; never shoot a gun in a match which hasn't been tested with match like conditions and at least a couple of hundred rounds. I have seen people go full auto in a match and the reverse, single shot, after making changes in their gun and not testing it before hand.

Grease to slide is bad. If you have the funds get this and it will smooth out the primer shuttle movement.

I have to be honest, I tried couple of Eemann tech products and found them inferior in wear, and expensive. For the Shadow 2 the trigger issues you posted are not a problem with Cajon Pro or the CZCustom kits. These are time tested kits in Shadow 2s with tens of thousands of rounds in a gun with out failure, when installed properly. Yes I read you had a CZC trigger in the gun with the issue. That tells us readers the installer made some sort of error during the install. I personally have never seen a “Brass disco.” A relatively soft material like brass won’t last very long as a disconnector. A heavy trigger return spring should not be needed. Even if the spring breaks the trigger should be able to manually be return smoothly. First rule when you have a problem, go back to stock and add a modification one piece at a time until the problem returns. Good luck.

Why? Those are easy fixes. You, as many others, have found reloading isn’t just setting up the press, throwing brass, primers, powder and bullets in the appropriate places and then perfect finished ammo spits out. Everything requires tuning and tweaking to make it work well. And anytime one thing or consumable is changed then more tuning is required. For example I found some brands of primers require a bit more weight on the follower than others to feed well. I always tell people starting their reloading journey that it’s a hobby by itself. Enjoy