HesedTech

Because it doesn't matter. Load for the gun one has. I have a Wylde chamber in my competition gun and it shoots loads for either chamber. If one is shooting the AR platform the magazine limits the OAL and not the chamber. As far as pressures go it depends on the gun. My Wylde chamber over pressures with max loads that work in my 5.56 chamber. The glorious thing about reloading is customizing the rounds for the gun one owns. Finding the load for accuracy, gas pressures (cycling of bolt), and more is what it's about. Using a mix of 223 and 5.56 brass is not an issue. Be aware the big differences in rifle brass are the volume for powder and ability to be reloaded a few times (brass thickness). If money is an issue, Lee 223 dies work great. For AR I recommend using a small base die for resizing. If one is shooting a bolt action for precision, then it gets a bit more detailed. BTW the debate over 223 vs 5.56 has basically ended. Most ARs are 5.56 or Wylde chambered these days. Also, I don't think there are dies sets marked only for 5.56. But I'm sure there's an exception. One last thing, crimping. Yes, I lightly crimp my loads, however I know other competitive shooters with ARs who don't. It's all about neck tension to hold the bullet during cycling into the chamber.

The only reason there are "issues" is because the reloader hasn't found the correct OAL or their process is somehow distorting/bulging the brass. I've loaded tens of thousands of coated bullets ranging from 115 - 150 grain for CZs. RN, Truncated, HP and FN and they all run great in stock chambered CZs.

My experience with the Redding Comp die is it must be set up correctly or else it can have variance in OAL. I love them for precision rifle but found they didn't work as well for pistol loads. The simple Dillon seater or even the Lee does good work and has been very consistent with OAL for me over the years.

The point of target focus is to NOT FOLLOW the dot to the next spot you want to hit, rather to look and then put the dot with the appropriate amount of precision on the spot. Irons really are similar, look at the spot first and then align the front and rear with the appropriate amount accuracy. An iron sight shooter who follows the front sight everywhere during the run will not be as quick or precise, just like the dot. Use the occlude to help get used to looking and then driving the gun to the desired location. I would also suggest dimming the dot to the lowest level for you need to see it. A bright blob dot draws attention away from the spot desired.

The shell plate bearings aren’t worth it. Upgrade the index roller cam to a bearing and add the mod to stop primers from advancing. It s also nice to have a spent primer tube, and the primer catch for unused primers.

I could be wrong, but I noticed the shell plates on the 750 (and 1100 BTW) have been updated. This could be part of your issue. I have both and my 750 doesn't fully push the brass into the plate until I press forward for the priming part of the stroke. Then it centers perfectly or at least adequately. The Dillon sizing die probably works best in their presses.

It's a fad except when one knows what they are doing. Atlas Gun works has a great video explaining why they stroke open guns. I own multiple Tanfos, old and new, and have no idea which ones have a longer stroke of the slide.

I've converted a gun to SAO for Limited years ago and the only advantage was I added a flat trigger, which wouldn't be legal for production. The SA pull weight, reset and take-up were no different than when the gun had DA/SA. If one compares buying a factory 2011 to a typical factory DA/SA gun, then yes the 2011 SAO trigger is much nicer. Personally I don't see any advantage to converting a Shadow 2 to SAO. Just add a mag well and start with hammer back safety on. Of course this violates the rule of buying more cool stuff because we can.

At the level you would blast the steel and the heat needed for baking on the Cerakote you won't change the hardness of the steel. However, blasting with an aggressive media is probably what you don't want to do. I use soda blasting for light coats, and is really easy on metals, especially the softer ones. The heat levels used to harden steel are much higher than baking on a finish. Cerakote has been used successfully for years, so I wouldn't worry at all. Find a legit outfit experienced in refinishing guns and you will be happy with the results.

No I got that. Why I disagree is this, if a person is trained and proficient with a dot they do everything sooner. Close shots don't even need a dot just like point and shoot with irons. As far as your "wiggle" goes, yes we all lose the dot occasionally, but we do the same with irons. On precision shots, even when losing the dot, one will be able to take the shot sooner. But, ya got to practice!!! It all depends on ability, confidence and proficiency. Personally I feel irons work fine for EDC, because I believe most encounters will be within 10 yards and anything less than 5 really doesn't require much of a sight to hit center mass. It was called combat shooting when I was trained years ago. Don't forget the history of pistol use is just in-close personal defense.

There isn't a "248" listed these days and 244 is too fast for major. There is 748 a really good rifle standard.

Disagree 100% with this statement. When using a dot the target becomes the focus and does not required matching of the front and rear sights. This alone gives one more peripheral awareness and vision ability. As far as "finding the dot" goes, if you have actually observed proficient USPSA competitors who use a dot you would notice they do everything sooner. Why? Because it's easier to look at where one wants the shot to go and then put the sight on it. Target focus. But the thread is about a dot for carry puroses. Yes A dot is better, except it adds one more device to the gun. It comes down to what one thinks their carry weapon should be prepared for. I know a friend who carries a SBR 300 BO in a back pack as his defense gun. Here's my thoughts: If it's an in close encounter then who needs a dot. If precision is a possibility the dot is a blessing, enhancing both accuracy and speed. Like all things though, throwing a dot on a gun and not actually practicing with it is a pretty dumb idea. By practice I don't mean shooting a couple of boxes of white box. I mean actual regular dry fire and yes thousands of rounds. What do I have? Both, with and without a dot.

Did you do a search? Here’s a thread using WAC

Send them a PM and ask what they have done to their guns for competition. Stock guns are supposed to work, but mass production often raises issues.

The basic 550 works fine, but you will be wanting the priming feature of the full 550 or 650 really soon. Also 650/750 has another space on the tool head. 550 is a good press, it just depends on your budget. Get the most you can afford.

Try Patriot Defense

Yes, different coatings and powder combos smoke more, but why is this a problem? Personally, SP with Blues don't smoke much, but Brass-Monkey green bullets and SP smoke a lot. Doesn't affect my shooting one bit and except for practice sessions I never notice the smoke during a stage run because my focus is on more important things.

Pictures? Very unusual to wear out shell plate. The case slider ramp, not the pusher, wears out because it is made of aluminum or some soft metal.

Just added some info to my previous post. Personally I really disliked my 650 with Autodrive, and sold the combo years ago for an automated 1050. Broke the plastic index ring multiple times. I purchased a 750 for my more leisurely loading sessions that don’t require as much volume. While I haven’t kept count for 2023, it looks like I’ve loaded 50k of 9mm, and 10k 223. Brass all processed on the 1050 and the 223 loaded on the 750. Did around 2k of other misc pistol loads on the 750. I would sell the drive and press separate, keep the 750 as is and get the Mark 7 drive for the 1050.

1050 with Mark 7 is a far better set up than a 650 with drive. (I had a 650 with a M7 drive). Keep 750, sell 650 and get drive for 1050. Your productivity and satisfaction will both increase. For 223 and 9mm with crimp pockets (a large percentage of 223/556 has “crimped” pockets) the 1050 with Autodrive can process at least twice as fast as your current 650. Plus add the trimmer for rifle brass and now you eliminate another step. Typically I process at 2500 RPH and load at 1600 on my 1050. 750, maybe 800 RPH if you’re lucky. Additionally the 1050 is tough compared to the 650 and rarely breaks any parts. The MBF has conversion kits, but you probably already know that.

The plate system is good if you are worried about changing dot brands. However, a plate always adds another point of failure and possible loosening or shearing of mounting screws. If you are going to stick with one footprint mill the slide to fit that dot.

Yes. Start with 1/2 a coil. I always put the cut end in the pocket so the spring stays engaged around the hammer strut properly.

Yes, that’s what I wrote and 14 lb is too light when trimmed for smooth/non-stacking DA.

I've loaded 124 heavly plated, WAC at 172 PF and didn't see anything unusual in 9 major for open. "Black stuff" is really common in PCCs because they are blowing back almost immediately and letting some gas out the chamber. If you've ever seen an overcharged round it is really obvious. Typically the first thing it will do is blow out the primer, and severely flatten the base of the brass. Assuming the gun is tough enough!