HesedTech

Extended firing pin and spring from CGW? Never used this ammo, however my Shadow 2s with the full CGW parts (trigger, sear, hammer, EFP, Disco, polish) and 11.5# spring sets off basically everything. Even when really dirty.

True. Since you still have DA the trigger has to come forward and the disco, properly fit, determines pre-travel. Generally stock discos have a lot of pre-travel and this is why CGW, CZC, and others sell discos. The problem is it may not drop in and run SA properly. This is where fitting comes in. It is also why some do away with it and use SA only the trigger with the screws. Easy to set pre-travel.

The SA works the same with or without the disco. The disco is fit to reduce pre-travel/take up in SA. Remove the disco and you will need a SA trigger with both pre and over travel screws. The basic function of the disco are two things. In the DA pull it rises (and trigger bar drops) until it comes off the trigger bar and releases the hammer. It also limits trigger take-up after the slide cycles and the hammer hooks are caught on the sear. In SA the trigger bar pushes the sear up and releases the hammer. A gun set up with the disco can have as equally short and light SA as one with it removed. If you are going to shoot LO the only advantage to having DA is if one gets a light strike. You can pull the trigger a second time and see if the cartridge will ignite. In SA only one must rack and feed a new round in. Your choice what you want out of your gun. Here's an old thread on it, notice SA works the same, disco or not. Also the SA trigger has two travel adjustment screws.

Sounds like possibly shell plate wobble with 223. Automation adds a bunch of things one would never notice when pulling the handle. Here's some ideas for you. Make sure you have the shell plate indexing correctly set. If the centering rods on the head are moving the shell plate into position after the plate advances, then your index needs adjusting. Decapping die - FWArms self-centering? FWArms self-centering swage hold down die? Did you do the wire " tie fix" between stations to prevent wobble? These work great from FWA: F.W. Arms™ DILLON 1050/1100/CP2000 #3 STATION TAB SET - FW Arms FW Arms, TNT, or FFB shell plate? These run a bit better than the Dillon one. Did you correctly set the shell plate on the press? Hope these help.

Since you have your first "race gun" and 1-2K a month are not a small numbers, you need to pass by the lesser stuff like LEE and go straight to progressive presses like Dillon and Mark 7. At minimum a starting point is a 750, however with 223 in mind it will not satisfactorily swage the primer pockets. This leads you to the 1100 or comparable Mark 7. I would avoid the Frankford X-10, not because it isn't a good press, rather because support has been reported as not very good. You will need parts in the future and both Dillon and Mark 7 have great support. Welcome to the joys of reloading. BTW Hornady makes great stuff, but the consensus is Dillon or Mark 7 for progressive presses.

Yes. And you can make it better or more personalized depending on trigger/parts choices and your budget.

Not doing anything wrong, die can only go so far down. Here's a trick that works in non-auto feed presses; grind the beveled flair out of the opening of the die. Make sure you smooth the edge to prevent scraping the brass. Used this years ago to combat bulged brass and make sure sizing made it all the way to the shell plate. But, only works if one is hand feeding in the brass. I bought a roll sizer, an expensive fix.

1. Yes 2. Some primers don't feed as quickly. I suspect it's because they have rougher edges. 3. Yes. 4. No. After the first 100 you begin reloading and by the time you need more primers the next magazine tube is refilled. Notes: A dry lube rubbed on the plastic (not silicone) will help the primers feed quicker. The last 3 - 5 primers in the bin will not feed to the tube.

I have had PD do several slides for me and unless you send the whole gun to them or ask they assume the owner knows enough. As far as you doing the work, it’s basically filing down the part that goes against the optic until it fits and runs in the gun. If you cut too much off buy a new one. I do believe the FPB is hardened so it may take some work. Good luck and have some fun.

You have two choices, do the work to the FPB yourself or send it out. Patriot Defense will cut down your FPB, Tanfoglio | Firing Pin Safety Bock - Modified - Patriot Defense Basically, it has to be cut shorter to compensate for the slide material milled off. You keep the same FPB spring. If you are nervous call PD and ask them.

Did you mill the slide for the optic? I’m not familiar with the Hunter, but all the rest have of the Tanfo large and small frames have a firing pin block. If you mill the slide the FPB has to be reduced in size. This could be your problem. To find out, remove the FPB and see if the issue goes away.

I have a powder check die, frankly never needed it and never set it up (at least 100K, probably more). However, if you must have the powder check get the Mark 7 with more stations. Coming from the 650 it really won't matter because the 1100 and Mark 7 presses will require you to purchase more stuff. The only things on the 650 that are the same on the 1100 is the powder measure and the case feeder. The good news is both come with a brand new 1100. I'm totally set up with Blue, but that new Mark 7 with the auto-drive built in is temping. Just don't have any need nor ability to justify it.

A lighter recoil spring does not rise as high as a heavier spring. People have actually done tests and posted the results on YouTube. But, the tradeoff is a sharper feeling hit at full open slide when it hits the stop. Put a buffer in to reduce this. If your additional "grip" is causing accuracy issues with long shots, then you are gripping the gun wrong and possibly anticipating compensating/pushing instead of actually gripping harder with your support hand. Lighter guns of the same design rotate more because of less mass. Guns with a higher center of the barrel bore rotate more because of the leverage... My lightweight 380 recoils/flips/rotates at least double of my competition guns (Shadow 2s). I've shot the Shadow 2 Compact and frankly it just recoils more. The only solution, besides tuning recoil and hammer spring is adding weight and to me that kind of negates the carry advantages of a lighter gun. I'm betting someone will come up with a tungsten guide rod. Everything is a compromise.

Yes. My DA Primer Pro was one of the first ones sold and required the base plate change to run correctly. After 10s of thousands of Federals, that ran perfect, I switched to Fiocchi and am currently at about 6K with only two flipped primers, and I suspect that happened as they went down the Dillon primer feed magazine on my 1100. As far as reliability, 11.5# hammer spring on Shadow 2 all go bang. Not one light strike.

Did you read this thread? Dillon also sells an alignment tool.

Yes it's acceptable, as long as they all plunk in the chamber. However, there is an updated thread on this very subject. Did you search first? Here's the thread and it has a "fix" for the Redding seating die:

I'm confused, When I purchased my Redding seating dies I remember the instructions said to dismantle and clean before use. I didn't know I needed approval to modify the dies for my needs. Just saying. BTW glad to read a lighter spring for fixes the pistol seating issue.

Not really. The weight, diameter, coating, plating or FMJ tends to change the load needed in a given barrel. What they post for loads is only what is tested and is meant to provide two things, protection for the manufacturer and a range of loads for those who don't have access to a chrono or are totally new to reloading or that particular powder (starting point). For sub-sonic pistol loads the profile is less important than how it runs in your gun. If you have ever seen a precision revolver shooter you may notice some use "wad cutters," a totally flat non-aerodynamic bullet. Cuts really clean holes in the target and no feed issues. Bullets with a longer bearing surface tend to be more accurate. Ideally loads are adjusted to meet your needs. If you search for powder preferences they tend to come down to a few things; will it consistently drop, is it dirty, is it too hot (yes heat not speed), temperature stability, perceived recoil feel, price and availability. Keep at it!

I saw you are loading at 1.11 OAL with you 125s. Believe Syntech uses a powder similar to Sport Pistol, since you are experimenting with CFE try this. Lower your OAL to 1.08” and using same powder load see if the STDEV improves. You shouldn’t have any pressure issues at minor PF, but always watch for them. I was experimenting for fun with 115 grain bullets in a 380 and found because of the limited cartridge I had to use a very fast dense powder (244) to get decent velocities. The joys of reloading.

If you haven't noticed the discussion about powders often goes off the hook here on Enos. Personally I've used a lot of Titegroup, Sport Pistol, Win 244, N320, Clean Shot, WST, and tried a bunch of others like CFE. My preferences for 9 minor are Sport Pistol, N320, and Clean Shot, but I will load whatever is available. I have 10 lbs of Win Autocomp (WAC), that is why I'm loading it up and enjoying shooting. By the way it's the same thing with primers, I bought a bunch of ZSRs and they all go bang so far, but I prefer Federal.

I have to admit your STDEV is a bit high. I think you mentioned, you do check to make sure your powder drop is consistent. I Chrono at 10' with old Caldwell and use a Labradar.

You are correct, each gun will have a different PF for a given load, however the OP may not care if one pistol was 128 PF and the PCC 140 with the same load. If there is an absolute must have 132 PF, then yes, each gun will have a different weight if powder. Now I have only used 1 lb CFE for pistol and really didn't think it was what I wanted to purchase, however it will make 132 PF in his guns. The example I gave using WAC was because I have a bunch of it and decided I would use it up in practice rounds. Normally I like faster powders like SP, 320 (I have a bunch of this) Clean Shot, Win 244... but we use what we have and WAC or CFE will work fine. Truthfully when I'm shooting I have no idea what powder is in use, given the PF is similar.

Personally, unless accuracy is an issue (25 yards) developing a load which works in all your guns really is the way to go. Because a PCC has a longer barrel you can use less powder to achieve minor PF. While it really doesn't matter that much with pistol rounds, because of the longer barrel you could use a slower powder.

The Hornady seating die has a collar like the Redding Precision that helps straighten the bullet as it seats it. The micrometer addition makes it really easy to change depth. It can also crimp, but that does not need to be used and I don't recommend it. I use the Dillon dies for other calibers, just settled on the Hornady for volume with greater accuracy. The Dillon taper crimp die, in my opinion, makes the smoothest crimp out there. It just happens the load/tool head I was posting about has the Lee taper crimp die on it.

No suggestions, but went through some Chrono data on three guns of mine working up a load. Using just 5 shots per gun, 147 FN Blues, .355, 3.63 grains of WAC, ZSR primers, OAL 1.12” +- .005,” andall range brass, @ 55F Stock 2 SD = 10.34 PF 129.18 Tanfo Lim Pro SD = 15.4 PF 131.97 Shadow 2 SD = 6.3 PF 131.45 The OAL was determined for the Shadow 2. The Tanfos have reamed barrels and can load longer 1.14” Note, WAC is not considered a “fast” powder, probably slightly slower than your CFE. Loaded on a Dillon 750, Hornady seating die with micro adjust, and Lee taper crimp, not the FCD (crimped to minimize dent in bullet). I suspect there’s something in your loading process, like bullets not seated as straight as possible, over crimping, using the Lee FCD, or OAL bad length. Check 25 yard accuracy.