HesedTech

If a TF will fire with safety up/on then, as bulm540 has pointed out, a previous own modified the gun (probably replace two piece sear with one piece and or a Titan hammer) and tried to make the safety work. And yet took too much off. Gun still works, but will fail a safety check. Previous owner took material off the sear tab which rides under the safety, the reverse (take off material from safety, or possibly both. Fix: If the safety has been modified, get a new one and carefully remove only a little at a time until the safety functions correctly. If the sear was modified get a new one and modify the safety only. If both are modified, get replacement for both and only change the safety. Why only the safety? No reason, it just seems like a better thing to do than mess with the sear. Best instructions on how to work on TF:

Yep. But, the Henning flat trigger is really nice. The easiest way to get a SA is this; cock the hammer and put the safety on. Some people shoot limited with their TFs and CZs this way. Thought I'd add a couple of things. The TF S/A Limited guns do not have firing pin block, so if you remove the interrupter for S/A only then you won't need the FPB. If the super curved trigger isn't to your liking the is the Extreme trigger replacement which has a whole lot less curve. Personally I prefer that one and swap all my T/Fs to it. Enjoy.

Doesn't matter which die you are using or roll sizing the bases of the brass. With rifle brass, especially 223, you almost always have to "over cam" the die to set the shoulder in the right location. There are a lot of YouTube videos about precision rifle reloading, Dillon has instructions on line about "head spacing" you brass to set up the sizing die. From Dillon: The sizing/ depriming die is a full-length sizing die, manufactured to minimum tol- erances. We strongly suggest that a head- space case gage be used to correctly adjust the size die. Always clean and lube your rifle cases before attempting to process the cases (thru the size die). 1. Move the handle down to raise the plat- form. 2. Screw the sizing/ depriming die into sta- tion one of your reloader. 3. When the die contacts the shellplate, back the die off 1/2 turn. 4. Use one lubed rifle case to test your siz- ing and headspace. Readjust the die as needed to achieve proper headspace. 5. With a case in the die, snug the lock ring. Setting up the sizing die is more than touching the shell plate. To do it properly you will need a precise gauge to check for head space. Many so called 223 gauges are way too loose and lie to you. The two best and most precise I know of and use for 223 are these: JP 223 Wylde gauge, the advantage is it only checks head space and case length, which is good for bolt gunners who load longer than 2.26 (max magazine OAL). It is also machined in the Wylde chamber, so if it passes it will fit in 5.56 and 223 Rem chambers with the only issue then being OAL requirements. https://www.jprifles.com/instructions/Rifle/JPCG-223.pdf The other is Sheridan Engineering slotted gauge. This is machined to a very tight short OAL chamber for 223 Rem. If it fits here it will fit in any factory chamber. https://sheridanengineering.com/product/223-rem-ammunition-gauge/ The main point is if your die is not properly set up it will not set the shoulder properly and the brass will not head space and get stuck in the chamber. If after sizing the brass drops into (and correctly meets the headspace marks) one of the above gauges and drops out when turned upside down your brass will work in a gun. If it won't gauge after seating the bullet you have other problems which are causing damage the shoulder area. Good luck.

First of all accuracy comes from a multitude of things the most important being consistency. Accurate ammo varies little between cartridges. But we must define terms here, do you want to be "accurate" or "precise?" One is about scoring the other is shots going exactly where you expect. The question really is this, what level of cartridge consistency are you willing to achieve and where are the diminishing returns? If you want to see what a top long distance shooter does check out Erik Cortnia, https://www.youtube.com/user/XtremeConcreteCo https://erikcortina.com Check out how he prepares his bullets and cases to hit a sub MOA 1,000 yard shot at .3" So where does the press fit into this? Bullet seating is huge and my 550 with a Forster die is just as precise as my single stage Lee. Now the 1050 running automated for pistol (or even loading 223 short range ammo) has a much higher SD. Consistency with tight groups comes from a multitude of steps and this is why loading is a sport and hobby by itself.

This, the plate, works pretty good separating the 380 from 9mm.

I know it’s not the answer you are looking for, but whenever I swap shell plates and or calibers I always verify everything. However, I believe the answer to you question is with an already setup head I have found the only minor change is the bullet seating and taper crimp dies. Sorry I can’t remember changing much else. Something I always check for every loading run, regardless if I didn’t change a thing, is the powder drop. Just to make sure. Also 9mm brass bases vary a lot in thickness between head stamps and more so than 223. The one thing I believe many fail to setup properly is the Swage hold down. Essentially the brass can’t move up as the swage punch presses into the pocket and it, the punch, can’t be set so high it bends it. If the Swage station fails to smooth out the crimp enough there will be issues with seating the primer. Hope this helps.

This Depending on which die you have from them it may not be sizing the brass down far enough. How do I know? I have a MA 9mm die and it is the only one which caused me any set back issues. Since I purchased mine years ago they have updated it to provided adjustable neck sizing to do what the Dillon and other dies already do, slightly undersize the brass to provide proper tension. MA new die: ”The TNT "Tighter Neck Tension" design will allow you to adjust the die for bullet diameter and length. After a 4 minute setup you're good to go. ” Contact them with your issue. Also, the Lee FCD will not solve this issue at all. Instead it can creat other issues, especially with coated and plated bullets.

I'll give you an answer from experience, no it is not worth it. I put a full tilt M7 with all the sensors on a 650 a few years ago. It worked well, but wore out and broke way too many parts. Beside voiding the warranty, the machine just isn't built for the auto drive. For almost the same amount of money you can auto drive a 1050/1100. The only extra cost issue really is the tool heads, they are expensive compared to the 650/750. I processed a couple of thousand pieces of 223/5.56 brass last week on my 1050 with Ammobot (no longer available, but maybe soon according to Dillon) at 1200 an hour. Couldn't do that with the 650. BTW sold the 650 with the drive a couple of years ago. My only regret was I should have kept the 650 and just sold the drive. As long as primer pockets are swaged or reamed, it's a great medium volume manually run machine. If you want a machine dedicated to brass processing, it's probably not a bad idea. But, I'm with you and would rather have another 1100 or 1050 because it can do both.

To second the other poster, I load 9mm, 40sw, 45 acp and 223 with mine and the cuff has ended up the same for all. There is no way to prevent wear if you have to adjust it a lot. Good news, it doesn’t have to be adjusted very often.

I have had two dilllon case feeders, one got sold with my 650, and just to let you know they are not perfect. First, at least in the older models, the motor will lose power fairly quickly and not support very many cases. No matter how you adjust the “cuff” you will get jams from cases which did not fall. There is also the “water fall” jam where cases get jammed up prior to the stop switch and they begin to spill out. The only real fix is to replace the motor drive with a stronger unit. Immortobot now sells a replacement motor and sensors to reverse the drive when jammed and prevent the waterfall. As far as the clutch goes, there isn’t a setting which universally works. Set it to drive with out slipping the number of cases you fill the bowl to. If the drive jams just turn it off and clear it. Yes you have to pay attention.

I have the 1050 and the bearing kit is not needed at all. For spillage and bullet tip after MBF station issues the subject is keeping the brass stable as it transitions. A great technique is putting a zip tie around the edge from the powder drop and bullet drop station to the seating die.

This is the best alternative: https://www.whiddengunworks.com/product/trim-die-2/ He ships fast and the die is in stock.

First rule on finding Tanfo parts, contact Patriot Defense. If they don't have the spring they will know how to get one. Call them, https://patriotdefense.com/shop/firearm-parts/tanfoglio-parts/# EAA is rather slow, but will get back to you if you email them.

For rifle I would use this expander plug from NOE with you Lee Uni die: https://noebulletmolds.com/site/shop/expanders/expander-plug-rifle/313-x-309-exp-plug/ It will give you ample neck tension for .310 and expand the top to .314 to prevent scraping. And don't forget to use a "taper" crimp die and not a roll crimp. Roll crimp will cause stripping of the coating and subsequent leading of your barrel. NOE is the goto plan for expander plugs.

I have one, but, yes it is accurate and easy to keep calibrated. Best though for precision loading on single stage press. If you’re doing any sort of volume work a normal powder dropper works fine and is much faster.

The hold down die is not the cause of the detonation. What causes it is a misaligned primer which has hung up on the "crimp" ridge and you are compressing the anvil lighting it off. The hold down die, I've used both of the ones mentioned here and love the Level 10, just makes the primer depth a bit more consistent by preventing the brass from moving up as the primer is inserted. If you've never had a kaboom, it is impressive. On a Dillon press the primer magazine will prevent any sideways issues, but the follower rod and inner tube will be destroyed. Punches holes in ceiling above it.

Technique is to load 1 less round than max with the mag extensions.

I polished the inside of one of my Dillon measures, it made no difference in drops. Anodization would make it look a bit nicer. However, I don't think they are made out of aluminum. Maybe someone can correct me there.

Swaging in 1050/1100. I’ve had similar problems to many, inconsistent primer depth, damaged brass, etc…. The solution is simple, but defeats the single pass process. Brass bases, can significantly differ in thickness. Setting the swage punch/holdown to a single head stamp will cause slight differences where the press ram stops, depending on the stamp. I also went to the TNT shell plate for 9mm and 223. They are a bit more robust and have less play in the slots. I also use two pass processing, the first is to simply decap, swage and size the brass.

Get this gauge with the side cut and you will find out where your issues are. If it gauges with the Sheridan it will run in a gun, unless of course the gun’s chamber is out of spec. I found my PSA barrels in 5.56 and 300 where milled to minimum spec. https://sheridanengineering.com/product/300-blk-ammunition-gauge/ What could be happening is the neck is being deformed when seating bullet, or you have a barrel where the bullet hits the rifling sooner.

All of the above. If you are producing ammo which meets your quality and at a pace which fills your needs, why send the money on a 1050/1100? I have a 1050 with ammobot drive, 550 and a good old single stage Lee. I had a 650 and replaced it with a 1050 for speed, swage station, primer adjustability and production numbers. It also requires less maintenance than the 650 for high volume. For large production not pulling the handle is really nice! But it all costs $$$$

Give you a break? Really! Sorry couldn’t help myself. Trying to lighten things up a bit.

Sarge Again we all have our opinions on the subject and your strong position does indicate you expect people to agree with you or at least be swayed by you. I too, and I'm sure many others on the forum, have friends and acquaintances whom have shot people. We also, because of our association with the shooting world, play with many who carry and defend people with firearms. With all that behind me I have to again write this, the tool depends on the task. Personally I have several dots ranging from pistols to rifles, SROs (using in USPSA), Holosun (507 and 510), Alpha 3 (best value BTW), Vortex Venom and Viper, and a Sig. They all are tough and only had one failure, the Venom whose frame cracked after around 5000 rounds. I only point this out to indicate I am far from anti-dot in any way. In fact I think it's God's gift for old eyes. So what do I carry? A Sig P938, because of its size and ability to comfortably and unobtrusively conceal. I frankly don't expect a full drawn out gun battle. That's my opinion and experience. Yours is different and I'm sure has good reasoning behind it. BTW, poo pooing Vogel's opinion is sacrilegious. Just saying. For the OP, decide why you want to carry, what you expect to encounter and then equip yourself accordingly. Dots are good.

Not simple. The simple solution is “plunk test” your barrel until the OAL works. Start long shorten till the cartridge freely drops in and out. A lot of threads on the subject here on the forum. When you figure that out Chrono the powder amount until the appropriate PF is found.

Sarge Pretty strong opinion. Are you going to turn this into a 45 vs 9mm stopping power type of discussion? Each of us have our own reasons about why they conceal carry and what the proper tool is for that job. BTW I officially carried for a US Gov agency for 15 years and never once had to even consider drawing a weapon to stop a threat, thank God. Sure did a whole bunch of training and requals though and enjoyed all the info. Now I’m a Super Senior in USPSA and enjoying using a dot with old eyes. Makes me feel young again.