HesedTech

I have the Titan and stock hammers on multiple Tis. Personally opinion is if the gunshots really well and you are happy with the trigger don't change a thing. The Titan hammer will probably require you to do a little work on the sear or safety lobe to make the safety engage.

It looks really nice, but I have the Frankford rotary tumbler which is on sale at Midway for almost half the price. It works really well. Just an idea; pick the one which you will be happiest with.

Nice!!!! Good job. Also looks like you have the Extreme trigger installed. I personally like it over the normal one with more curve to it. You also have Ben and Joel’s newest training book. Lots of good stuff, especially the par times to monitor progress.

Now everyone will want to try out you gun. Congrats!

Not to be rude or argue your point, but my impression of "shooting points" does not, nor never meant shooting all As. We all know in USPSA shooting it's the "points per second," we are going after. If I shoot 90% of CHA-LEE that doesn't mean my raw score is 90% of his. It means I shot 90% of his stage score. At least that's my understanding. Yes USPSA match scoring can seem confusing. I just want to point out how I, and I believe others, understand what it means to "shoot all the possible points." Hope this helps clarify and is also the reason some use stage HF to help them plan. Personally, in every stage, low or high HF, I attempt to maximize my HF/points for my abilities. If I plan poorly, or make an error costing time, I'm leaving points behind, even if I shoot 100% As.

What you are talking about isn't what I meant when I wrote this, "Am I going to be sloppier with my hits in one verses the other? Of course not." We all know (maybe we all know) shooting all As isn't the fastest nor highest scoring strategy. And yes I've done it, shot all As in a stage. All the top shooters I know and follow say the same thing, "shoot what you see." Meaning a harder target takes a more focus while a close open target can be blasted. Blasting a close open target isn't being sloppy. While a hard sight focus isn't as critical it still requires an appropriate level of precision. I hope this clarifies what I wrote.

And this is what makes this a fun sport, stages where more than one solution can be found to shoot them.

I did watch the one on the basic shooting position. I'll check out the rest. Thank you for the link. This is a great sport and we need more people like you showing us what works for them. If you haven't done so, check out Charlie Perez ,Cha-Lee https://bigpandaperformance.com, he is one of the best instructors for shooters who want to learn how to play the game. For those in the USA who have access to his classes, just do it.

Did you look at this link? https://benstoegerproshop.com/tanfoglio-eaa-ifg-optimized-bolo-interrupter-by-patriot-defense/ I have taken just a little off #2 to fix that problem. From the link: (Which BTW Patriot Defense does not post anymore). Installation Directions- Check single action function, first. SA should drop and reset with the slide on. If SA does not break or reset, remove material from angle 1, following the natural curve of the interrupter. This also applies if SA breaks, but does not reset. Check double action function. If DA does not break remove material from angle 2. CAUTION: This is an extremely sensitive part of the process; if you do not feel comfortable attempting this, please have a qualified gunsmith fit this part or send your firearm to Patriot Defense for proper fitting.

Stef I'll be honest with you, it's too complicated. I believe you would serve your viewers better by demonstrating how to plan a stage to shoot and move more quickly to the next array. No matter what, thank you for making your videos and encouraging others to excel in the sport.

How many targets and how difficult is the stage? Personally to me the whole idea of using hit factor as a measure of how I will shoot the stage just doesn't seem reasonable. Am I going to be sloppier with my hits in one verses the other? Of course not. Three general rules for the average shooter from Steve Anderson: 1. Shoot what you see. 2. Aim for the center of the "brown." 3. Do everything sooner. Follow these and I believe for most people the HF won't matter. BTW the math of make-up shots is really simple. If I know I hit a no-shoot or mike, make it up. Going to war on steel will crush my score. Dropping points and adding penalties hurts my score. Making up a C for an A probably not worth it.

I’m so sorry. While Prime Minister Arden has stopped the COVID from invading NZ, she has also stop a whole lot of trade. I would recommend you look at the powder burn rate charts and pick the one available to you which has the closest match to Titegroup, N320, and Sport Pistol. Biggest problem with some in the range have a very low density and may fill the brass more than you need. The hobby is becoming finding reloading components more than the shooting.

I tried this years ago with the 650. While others may have had some success I didn’t. It wouldn’t swage anything enough, stresses the shell plate and voids the warranty. Super swage works really good.

I looked up the manufacturer recommendations and the max is really low and slow for APS350. I still don’t believe you will have any noticeable pressure changes with your load because there are too many variables to measure. Just a variety of head stamps will have different case volumes. However, based on min and max recommendations I would go with a different powder, if you have a choice. It would be very difficult to increase the velocity of you bullets if you needed to for accuracy and assurance you will make PF. Just my thoughts.

If you’re shooting minor, as previously discussed, it will make zero noticeable difference in pressures.

Personally I would hate to file down those nicely anodized pads. OP, get the Henning ones or check with Patriot Defense. I use the Henning and the fit great with either the stock or Henning's magwell.

https://benstoegerproshop.com/tanfoglio-eaa-ifg-optimized-bolo-interrupter-by-patriot-defense/ The poster just used the CZ reference to the same thing. Will it disappear? Maybe, maybe not. More than likely not. This is the fitting process because each Tanfoglio is unique.

Tanfoglio calls it an “interrupter” same thing though. How to links for Bolo: https://benstoegerproshop.com/tanfoglio-eaa-ifg-optimized-bolo-interrupter-by-patriot-defense/

April fools! You got a couple.

Do you need to make minor PF? If not you probably won't like 4.5 grain. I would load 3.8 - 4.0, depending on the gun probably won't make minor PF, but it's good for plinking. If you want to make Minor, then you will need a Chrono and work up a ladder of loads until you find the one consistently making minor. Remember it is gun depended, what makes minor in a CZ Shadow 2 may not in a Tanfoglio S2. Now OAL? The only way is the tried and true "plunk" test. Where you load long and keep shortening it up until it drops free from your chamber. Lot's of threads on the forum about the process.

There's a couple of thread addressing the issues you are seeking answers for. I too went from loading 9mm to volume 223 for competition. Almost the same, but the precision for the rifle ammo has to be a bit higher. 1. Invest in a good gauge checker. I recommend the Sheridan which are by far the most precise I've found. Get the slotted version. https://sheridanengineering.com Head space is more important for both reliability and safety. 2. If you are hand placing the bullet you do not need to expand the neck. However, if you are using a bullet feeder you will need an expander die. Get one from NOE Bullet molds. This one: https://noebulletmolds.com/site/shop/expanders/expander-plug-rifle/226-x-222-exp-plug/ You will need to crimp. BTW the 1050 swage backer rod does the same thing. 3. I use 55 gr cheap bullets from RMR. By far the best for the buck. Personal opinion is unless you are shooting for absolute precision the cheapest bullets which provide adequate accuracy at 200 yards is the way to go. Also Bullet weights are best chosen based on barrel length and twist rate. 4. Lots of good powders for 223/5.56. Buy one which can be used in more than one caliber for flexibility. Again the need for absolute accuracy will change this. 5. Like your pistol, chamber check your ammo! The ammo must drop in and out of the chamber without binding or you will, not might, have a failure to completely chamber and fire. Then you will be do the butt slam to unload the cartridge. 6. Don't trust purchased brass unless you are totally familiar with the company. Sizing is very important and swaged pockets may not be adequately done. You will need a case trimmer, rifle brass grows as it it shot and resized. Lee makes a cheap one for use with a drill. 7. Follow Dillon's guide about how to set up the Sizing die. See video https://www.dillonprecision.com/accessories-add-ons-videos.html Notice they say you must use a headspace gauge. The Sheridan works great. Sounds complicated, but really isn't. Just learning the process.

The after market swage attachment for the 650 and 750 doesn't work (can't apply enough pressure), voids the press warranty, and can bend or break the shell plate. Yes I tried it on the 650. There are a whole lot of swage options and the Dillon one is good. If you have a single stage press RCBS sells a simple die set, https://www.rcbs.com/case-processing/accessories/primer-pocket-swager-combo-2/16-9481.html, which cost less than the Dillon. Personally I like this better than a swage, https://www.rcbs.com/case-processing/primer-pocket/trim-mate-military-crimp-remover-2/16-90386.html, but you need one of these or chuck it up in a drill, https://www.rcbs.com/case-processing/chamfer/trim-mate-case-prep-center---120-vac/16-90375.html. Again a lot of options, some better than others.

Did you follow Memphis Mechanics videos? If not go back and follow them for your tune. As far as the Bolo goes, in my Stock 2s the fitting required a small amount of material taken away to function perfectly. However, not so with my Limited Pro. The R5 dropped right into the Limited Pro with zero modifications, but I have no idea if the same will happen in a Stock 2. If you intend to use the R5 or Bolo be sure to match it with both the Extreme Sear and Titan hammer. You will have to trim either the sear (I recommend this) or the safety lobe to get the safety to engage properly.

This die works great for 300: https://www.whiddengunworks.com/product/trim-die-2/ And this blade for your trimmer is designed to prevent those brass curlicues. https://ballistictools.com/store/rt-1200-carbide-cutting-blade-for-Dillon-rapid-trim I decap, trim, test (gauge each cartridge), ream/swage (I like the ream pockets best) crimp pockets and then clean the brass. Now I have perfect brass ready to load.

Rough guess, a 4’ x 4’ area should give you enough room. As in all reloading presses the biggest issue is a solid platform to mount the press on. What really takes up all the room are all the extras you will add to the reloading process. Dies, tool heads, powder, primers, brass, …. In comparison the press takes up very little space.