mlmiller1

Yeah why not just thumb cock hammer?

I third it!

I think its possible to make B class shooting minor in Limited division but I wouldnt say easily & certainly not easy to make GM. If you shoot a 125rd match & youre willing to accept 1 point less for each C & 1 less for each D, there are only 2 ways to keep up with major pf.... you either shoot at least 95% or more A & youre fast or youre blindingly GM fast & shoot maybe 80% A. Only matches you can really have a decent chance of keeping up are matches with lots of steel. Steel is either A or Miss... you still better be fast Look at major match results in Limited division. Do you see any minor pf winners? Very very rare. If minor was truly competitive, why wouldnt big dogs shoot minor? Most of more serious shooters will pay good money for a 140mm mag that will hold 1 extra round & function reliably. If minor pf wasnt a hard obstacle to overcome, we would all be shooting 9mm & have 2 or 3 more rounds in our mags .... However a glock 35 can take you there much cheaper than 2011 platform. I shot g35 for 14 years before going to 2011. I did it then because I wanted a change. In all those years, shooting 2 or 3 matches a month, I only had a handful of ammo issues & 1 broken trigger spring. I didnt try to make the glock into a 2011. It has mostly factory parts with light mods. Too much fancy crap & your gun may become less reliable. Anyway if you want an sti, buy 1 but buy a .40 in my opinion. If you want something else, buy it. Just remember its gotta fit you, its gotta be reliable & accurate, & youve gotta be confident in the gun you shoot.

OP.. if you buy online from an individual in another state, my understanding of process goes like this... you make your deal... you make payment...you find a local dealer. Seller has a dealer. Seller transfers suppressor to his dealer. His dealer transfers & sends it to your dealer. Your dealer holds it until all atf stuff is done then he releases to you. Obviously you pay seller, someone you or him pays his dealer, you pay your dealer, eventually you get your suppressor. If anything fails after its transferred to your dealer, you lose all the money & the suppressor. Not sure what dealer does with it but no way the seller or his dealer is obligated to refund any money. Its a little more risky than buying direct from a dealer plus there is 1 more transfer which means another fee..... This was how it was explained to me when I tried to buy a suppressor from my brother that lives in a different state than I do. I decided against it. Transfer fees at 2 different dealers plus regular charges made it not a good deal on a so so suppressor. Might have been different if it was a top of the line steal of a deal but it wasnt....

Great summary!

Thats not in your best interest.....

Thanks Dan!

Does anyone have a link to the scores?

Sounds like a good step. May I suggest you do your practice reloads with the gun up in front of your face with your eyes OPEN. Best reloaders in this game reload with gun up & watching mag go in gun.

Just a few days to the match!!!!! I can hardly wait.

So stages are available in the match book?

Jak have you tried my suggestion? Truly curious if you hand load each round, will they group together? If you try it, you will find out somethings that could lead you to a possible resolution....

Anyone got any news for those of us unable to attend due to medical leave?

Thanks Tanks!

Who has it $75 cheaper?

Lee liquid alox may work for you. Put some alox in small plastic container, dump in your bullets, cover & shake for a bit. You will need plenty of bell to keep from scraping off lube when loading. Its unusual to buy bare lead bullets with no lube... Also is leading near chamber end or muzzle end? Chamber end is usually too small bullet or too hard, muzzle end too soft bullet possibly able to band aid with lube. Too hard bullet wont obturate or seal barrel when fired so flame blows by melting lead causing leading near muzzle. Too soft it obturates when fired but as bullet moves down barrel, lead is melting getting worse near muzzle. Too small diameter bullet may lead entire barrel as flame surrounds bullet. Alox or other lube MAY mitigate the problem. Best bet is to slug barrel, check diameter you need, lube or buy lubed bullets, test loads then adjust hardness of bullet to stop leading.

Have you tried a single round in each mag? Load first 1 like normal & shoot. Chamber is empty, insert new mag 1 round only, chamber it & shoot. Repeat for several mags. Report results.... My curiosity is picqued.

Does it really add value because they quit making them? I guess there are 2 sides to the coin....... Real question is whether there is a market for that particular model. Of course a new in box is always worth more than used.

Sure looking forward to this match. I hope I can do it justice..... See yall there!

Exactly, unless you zero them which is my normal bad day. Lol

You have to have 4 classifiers in a division to have a classification but you cannot be classed any lower than 1 class below your highest class no matter how low(as long as they arent zeros) So until you get 4, you are U.

Is the nut that holds the magazine down in place snug?

Come on now..... eyedropper testing is pretty simple.... hahaha. Now Ive planted that worm in your head. Set your ocd free. Let it run.....???

If youre really chasing accuracy, check your h2o volume in starline vs volume in blazer brass. If they vary considerbly, you likely need to do ladder test with blazer brass & find an accuracy node. Then check accuracy..... IOW, optimize your load in the blazer brass. I suspect with tinkering around, you can achieve similar accuracy.

To change my powder drop, I dont have primers or brass in my 650. I just take a fired case, slide it in under powder drop & pull handle. If I want to check several, I just feed them in by hand under powder drop. To change volume I make an adjustment to the drop, fill a couple of cases, dump the powder back into hopper, then fill & weigh a case. I always just use a fired case with used primer still intact.