Benevolence

Yes, it will be a bit lower with having it milled for the optic rather than a mounting plate. I think about 1/8" or so.

Tl;dr: Cryotreating may help the spring retain its initial tension over time, depending on alloy and heat treatment. It may also help fatigue life, as previously mentioned, but again depends upon the alloy and heat treatment. Nerd answer: Performing cryogenic heat treatments are for highly alloyed martensitic steels (or martensitic stainless steels). During the quenching process from the austenite temperature (varies by alloy composition, ~900°C), there is a phase transformation into martensite. This occurs over a temperature range known as "Martensite start" and "Martensite Finish" temperatures (Ms, Mf; respectively). For many alloys this range is several to tens of degrees Celsius, and the Mf is above 300°C for most low alloy steels. However, some alloys, this Mf is below room temperature (due to composition stabilizing the austenite), and you'll have some retained austenite that didn't transform into martensite. This retained austenite can undergo deformation induced transformation (mechanism for transformation induced plasticity, or TRIP). If you want it to fully transform before any service, as to not have distortion in service (perhaps important for barrels or springs), you want to finish the martensite transformation. You do that by getting below the Mf, which can be -30°C, so you put in liquid nitrogen after quenching. The time between quenching and liquid nitrogen cryotreatment isn't typically super critical, because the atom mobility is quite low at room temperature.

They make a “Big Hand” model that has a radius on the sides and (I believe) a chamfer on the back. Alternatively just take a belt sander or file to fit it to your liking.

Mine was quite oversized as well. I wasn’t very happy when I learned how fitting a bull barrel can be so much more difficult than a bushing barrel for the lockup engagement but that’s another rant.

Just sharing some updates on my abomination. Excited to shoot it! 8oz tungsten backstrap, hockey tape, lightened slide, 5moa SRO, Henning pads, HBI trigger and some glock springs. Still need to make that 3+oz tungsten guide rod with 1911 recoil springs.

I had pretty good luck with two Ed Brown Fully Machined Memory Groove Beavertail Grip Safety's on my 2011 builds. You may have some blending to do and filing on the tab but it seemed as close to 'drop-in' as you'll get.

Glock triggers only have the striker partially cocked when in battery. Pulling the trigger pulls the striker back further and compresses the spring. The Trigger bar hits the disconnector and lowers to release the striker as it's also compressing the striker spring. That's why you'll always have the continuous build up prior to firing and never be able to get rid of it. (Video link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V2RDitgCaD0) M&P's work differently by having the striker fully cocked when in battery, and the trigger only lifts the sear to release the striker; they're usually able to be improved better than Glocks. 1911's only have to move the sear several hundredths of an inch to release the hammer. I think similar to rifles, I prefer a single stage with minimal take up trigger rather than a two stage trigger with a wall between the two. Others prefer the opposite.

I've got 4k small rifle magnum primers I'm about to try with 9mm minor & major once my bullets get in. Hope they don't do anything too crazy.

I guess the max load is on the other side of the slide stop hole but that sure doesn’t look good from a stress perspective. As long as your barrel is fit properly and hitting the VIS... Probably a 22 conversion as others are saying.

Will they lock back with racking by hand? It could be the follower tab, tube/feed-lips, or spring tension. I’d try marking the tubes and components then try to swap good mag internals to bad mag (ignoring the Wilson) and see if it fixes it. You may try bending up the follower tab slightly afterwards if it’s the internals. I haven’t used standard 1911 mags much so maybe someone else can chime in.

I bought their 80% 2011 frame, having some issues fitting it neatly to an extreme shooters STI grip but I’m not sure which is out of spec. Just ordered the plain texture one and I’ll try some grip tape or a jb weld abrasive. Hoping the two fit.

Thanks for the input. I hadn’t considered the disconnector. After some tinkering, I believe it could be either the sear is rubbing on the hammer near half cock or the safety plunger is pressing on the safety to raise the safety slightly, and the hammer is rubbing on the safety. Or both. I’m not quite sure what the best method for the safety rubbing is, perhaps filing more off to make better safety clearance. I’ll try a few things and report back. Edit: I think it’s the latter. And not to mention the sear/leaf spring left leg isn’t doing a great job of sitting on the sear leg.

Thanks. I did have the thought of a burr in the sear/disco channel slowing down the sear reset. I may aught to clean that out more. The overtravel screw thought was that once the slide pushes the disco down, the trigger bow can push the left spring leaf off of the sear leg if it is permitted to pull too far back. I have extensive pre travel at this point, so I don’t think that is it. I didn’t think about the GS/hammer strut; I’ll take a look at that. I may buy a sear jig since I’ve two at this point.

Hi all, Just did first test firing of a 9mm 2011 I’ve been building and I am having some issues; I believe they are not related to each other but I may be wrong. To note the related parts, I have a Wilson Combat square profile firing pin stop, Ed Brown perfection sear, Ed Brown Barstock Hardcore hammer, Fusion slide, 80% Black Mountain frame I machined to finish. When firing, I am often getting light strikes, despite a stock, heavy mainspring. Furthermore, the hammer often falls to half cock after firing a round, but not when cocked manually (with or without trigger pulled). Also, the hammer will have an audible ‘click’ if I press the hammer back the slightest bit after racking the slide (with or without trigger pulled). I believe this is the sear engaging fully, from a ‘partial’ position. I believe there could be several causes for this but I could use help in narrowing it down if possible. One could be the overtravel screw was not screwed in much, and allowed for the leaf spring to lose pressure on the sear after disconnector pushed down? The other would be a sear that is too long on the side that engages the hammer hooks? Lastly, perhaps I didn’t deck the top of the frame enough and the slide is sitting too high to fully cock the hammer? I’m a bit perplexed by the light strikes, perhaps square profile FP stop not allowing the hammer to hit the FP hard enough? My previous 2011 build did not have these issues. Thanks in advance for any input!

Ya glock striker spring works fine. I’d get a few different weights for striker and recoil springs while you’re at it.

I believe if you’re lightening the recoil spring, you should be lightening the striker spring as well. At least in M&P’s they work against each other and can cause the gun to not fully lock up. I think glocks & P-10’s work that way to some degree as well. I’ve lowered my striker spring to a 3lbs without light strikes.

I believe DLC is indeed a coating, of carbon in different structures (sp2/sp3?) that is on the order of several microns (~0.0003”). You may be thinking of black oxide or nitriding/carburizing.

As others said, the fitting process for the frame to slide and barrel to frame (VIS) makes it difficult. You're usually removing material from the bottom and inner parts of the slide as well as outermost and deck on the frame. However, I think doing a 10mm/40sw and a 9mm barrel in a single slide can often be done (clark/para ramp). The magazines for the 2011 will be different (and expensive) between calibers. I would recommend pricing it out entirely before you commit to this; it cost me 2-3x more than I anticipated; the small parts add up in price. Minimum tools in addition to your mill will be the brownells lug fitting kit and locking lug file. I would recommend the Kart EZ fit barrel, the oval link makes the VIS aspect easier. Watch MosinVirus's videos on youtube.

Just my opinion, those seem to be the sliding contact surfaces and contact of blued steel on blued steel while racking with the recoil spring in would do that. Maybe I’m not seeing the rounded surfaces indicative of not properly fit. If that’s DLC or something then something is absolutely wrong. I wouldn’t expect bluing to hold up to much wear at all and it doesn’t look like very smooth mating of surfaces which will only hasten it. All that said, for the price paid, that doesn’t seem acceptable. They need to get a better surface treatment, especially if that’s a 4340 and not 416R. At least a salt nitriding.

Huh. Ya that’s weird. Mine worked on crap steel case. Not a single error in the 750 rounds I shot. I’d try reassembling and cleaning the striker assembly and channel.

I believe they're all the same but if there's an option, G17 should do fine. I believe it's G17 as well for recoil spring as well but check the big Upgrades for Competition thread

Yep! 3lb glock striker spring was a direct drop in for me with no light strikes.

I’m in a similar boat. Was able to get 750 rounds of the Winchester steel case from Natchez but I shot it in one day thinking things were going to get better. Now I can’t find anything and am tempted to finally get a Dillon 750 because I can’t even shoot for less than 30cpr. And FWIW, my P-10F ate all of it without a hiccup; even had lower recoil and a 3lb striker spring in without any issues.

Whew okay. No problem haha. I was spooked because I had just drilled the hammer and sear holes for an 80% and am still fitting the rest of the parts.

I hope I’m not mistaken I thought the plunger tube holes were 0.076” above the slide stop hole?