Benevolence

Trijicon SRO/RMR are #6-32 screws/thread, 0.740" distance between centers. I've emailed Trijicon before and got no response.

Trying to decide between a p-10f and an m&p9 5” 2.0. I’ve got a 4.25” 1.0 with an apex kit, 6 mags, and a holster so I’d have some crossover. Going to be for carry optics with an SRO on it. Different things I like about each and can’t decide. Anyone else go through this and have opinions?

So far my abomination seems to be working quite well! I went with the 5MOA. (Direct mount to slide, 6-32 holes 0.740” apart)

I’m considering boring out the guide rod hole in the slide to allow for a larger uncaptured tungsten guide and use a different spring. I’d have to attach an end plate or turn the diameter to allow for a retention on the slide lock side. If I recall correctly, the larger diameter in the slide is 7/16”. However I’m not sure if it is going to get to the point of having too heavy of a guide rod and making it nose heavy or too heavy in general.

Does anyone know if the threaded barrel version (Suppressor, 91543) is uspsa Production/CO approved?

If you send a S2 slide to CZC for a CO cut ($370) you're still in it for less than the F4E cost by a good bit. If you do the CO cut, you're out of Production with that slide; though you can do some tricks to make it Production legal and CO legal (other ways for reducing weight, like guide rod, grips, etc.) for interchanging between divisions. I would personally pick a division and shoot it. If you really don't care about $, just get a second slide for the S2 from primary machining and slap a RDS on it.

Slide stop, recoil spring, hammer spring, firing pin & spring, extractor & spring. Hammer, punches, picks (to clean extractor), lube, cleaner blasting spray. Extra magazines (all labeled). Mine was 100% for the first 1300 rounds, then jammed in a match due to a dirty extractor because I didn’t clean it after 1k Wolf ammo.

From what I’ve read (mostly on this forum), it seems that they’re compatible with possible issues for slide lock back. I’m not sure if the increased frame rail (that the slide interfaces with) length interferes with side travel but I do not believe so

I did a week ago, but didn’t get a response. Perhaps I wasn’t nice enough; maybe EGW could provide the specs though.

Appreciate the video! Though they’re out of the reach price-wise for me for now, I’m quite impressed with the DLC; and the deposition temperatures are quite low for that, I may try that with my future build. I had issues with CrN PVD processing distorting the 2011 I built that I had to re-fit the slide/frame. Trying to determine the proper RS weight, as mine seems a bit snappy forward.

35/42. Did 73 A’s, no C/D’s and one M/NS. Took an insanely long time though and need to speed it up. 39% with a GM

Update on this, I emailed DNROI and they said if you put a cover plate back on the milled out spot, it would be fine to use it again in Production. The slide milling for lightening wouldn’t be allowed though.

Hi all, Just wondering if anyone would be able to provide the dimensions for milling out a pocket for an SRO. As I understand, there's two 6-32UNC threaded holes, as well as two pins or boss features. I was hoping to avoid using a mounting plate and do a direct mount instead but maybe I'm being an idiot. Thanks

And here’s the slide

Just behind the light rail also has a lot of plastic that can be dremeled out. I’m not too worried about the strength of it; seems at least as strong as the base material. It’s the slide bottom that holds the recoil spring that you have to make clearance for as it recoils back. I cant get the backstrap off because it’s essentially glued on now . I did a lot of undercutting on the right side under the trigger and under the shelf where the web of your hand sits. I wasn’t too afraid to ruin this gun; it was $299 and not my main competition gun.

Ya! I milled in the dust cover area and dremeled out a lot of the reinforcements on the frame and grip panel then filled in the area with the epoxy/tungsten. It goops over so you need to re-dremel it back down so it fits. I’ll try to post some pics and more detail. I tried to keep the epoxy to a minimum to bond it all

I’ve been working on a similar build for a police trade in 1.0. Ported the barrel (3x popples), milled the side, and made a comp from a chunk of steel laying around I found. Milled out parts of the frame as well and filled it with tungsten powder and epoxy. Need to make a horizontal C-more mount next Just wanted it for a fun gun and just starting on an open 2011 build but it’s going slow.

https://forums.brianenos.com/topic/251333-accu-shadow-2/?do=findComment&comment=2800780 it should just be the 2000 units sold requirement that was/is limiting it from being legal

I think manufacturers really pushed the DNROI to allow user modifications because they started coming out with competition specific models. Dumb that Sig can do what they did with the p320 x5 Legion. Seems like if they want a purist Production division they should pick the main full size 9 and 40 from the manufacturer and say no mods allowed period. G17, M&p9, XD9, CZ-75b, etc. and their 40sw counterparts.

From what I’ve seen on another thread where an individual sent an email to DNROI, the accushadow1 is legal but the accushadow2 is not yet due to 2,000 units not being sold. Taking a Shadow 2 and doing the czcustom accubushing install is legal though. Logic need not apply lol

Thanks. It seems like a bull barrel with extended threads for a compensator, then milling the slide and drilling/EDM'ing the barrel for poppels is the best option.

Just wanted a sanity check that this is from too light of a recoil spring and the slide stop getting hit by the front of the barrel lug a bit too hard; correct? I put in a 10lb cgw recoil spring and just put in the 11lb as a result of seeing this (kept the one buffer in but may put an additional buffer???). I just got the gun and took it out Saturday and put a thousand rounds of wolf 115 WPA through it. Boy did that get filthy but I friggen love the thing!!! I have ‘dropped’ the slide on an empty chamber perhaps a dozen or two times, but I thought that would effect the other side? Either way maybe I shouldn’t do that.

Hi all, I'm looking at doing a open 9mm major build and just wondering about some components and their respective fits. I'm familiar with the barrel-bushing-slide relationship for a typical 1911/2011 (I built a 40 limited gun) and I'm trying to understand which components go with what, and what the fitment process/relationship is for them. I understand that you need a tight bore fit for effective compensators, so the bushing styles simply won't work. I'm interested in slide preparation for tribrid/hybricomp barrels as well as understanding which barrel a cone compensator would go on (turns a threaded barrel into a bull barrel?). My goal is a flat shooting 9mm major gun and I think using some poppet holes with a compensator on the end would be the best way. Thanks

Thanks all. I think I’ll get that for my next build when I eventually do a 9mm Major. I did some touch up with the mill and only took a few thou off at most. There is one last ‘sticking point’ that I’m trying to determine how far back the slide really needs to be able to go and where the remaining high spots are. Lesson learned; the temperatures for PVD coatings are enough to distort a tight fit frame-slide and require re-fitting

If your mounting holes are tapped all fubar, I would extend the milled pocket forward or backward (depending on constraints from ejection port and rear sight) ~1/4" or so and redo the drill/tapping of holes.