Jump to content
Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About emjbe

  • Rank
    Finally read the FAQs

Profile Information

  • Location
    Chandler AZ
  • Real Name
    Mark Johnson-Barbier

Recent Profile Visitors

393 profile views
  1. This photo is only applicable if you are looking through your primary optic with the rifle turned (that is if you don't have a second sight mounted at 45˚ offset). When you have a 45 offset mount, you zero the second optic while the rifle it turned at 45˚ and then you don't have to adjust your hold because the second optic is zeroed while the rifle is held at an angle. So whenever you turn your rifle 45˚, you hold dead on.
  2. If you are having problems getting these, here's a suggestion: I use SoundGear (https://www.soundgearhearing.com/collections/custom-fit) purchased from Chris Bain at https://www.houseofhearing.com/hearing-protection. Note - if your work/insurance has a hearing protection/aid benefit it might cover some or all of the cost. Chris is a shooter and sponsors SMM3G. When I got mine I had the molds done locally and sent them to Chris via UPS. less than a week later my ear pro showed up in the mail. Been using them for 2+ years now with now problem. A new set of batteries lasts several matches and several practice sessions. I usually change them monthly. Amazon has 60 batteries for $15 which lasted me 2+ years.
  3. I have the SWFA 1-4 and a Razor HD Gen II-E 1-6x. In my opinion the Strike Eagle 1-6 or 1-8 is a step down from the SWFA 1-4. I have a strike 1-6 and I prefer the SWFA 1-4 for 3 gun due to the glass being more clear, much less distorted, and the SWFA has a better eyebox. I can see 535 yard targets better in the 1-4 than I can with the strike 1-6. The Razor is definitely a step up from the SWFA 1-4. I've used a PST and I found the scope to be nearly as good at the Razor ... so much so that I regretted spending the extra $$ for the Razor. To compare I put the PST and the Razor side-by-side and compared what matters most to me for 3gun: eyebox size. The PST was 100% equal to the Razor. I'm not a glass expert at all, but the only place I could tell a difference between the PST and Razor glass clarity was after the sun set and it was getting dark. So, if I were buying a hunting optic and I know that my 400+ elk will only come out in the last 30 seconds of legal hunting time, I'd get the Razor. For 3gun, if I had to do it over again, I'd get the PST. Having said that, I normally use a Leupold VX-6 HD 1-6x. I find the eyebox slightly better and the weight being exactly 7oz better with the only negative being lack of daylight-bright dot in the reticle. Of the other scopes mentioned by others above, I'd give a +1 to the Trijicon 1-8 and the CMORE C3 (with the enos discount). In my opinion the clarity of glass on each of those is on par with the Razor. If you really want 1-8x - that Trijicon is nice and comes VERY highly endorsed by several people I know who consider it an upgrade from the Razor. The Accupower I looked at didn't have any issue with thick reticle ... the center cross is pretty thick at .75 MOA ... but you'd never hold on the center cross at anything > 250 yards ... you'd be down in the .25 MOA stadia lines which would cover ~1 inch at 400 yards. I'm looking at it on Strelok and it looks pretty nice at distance ... I'll attach a snapshot of an AC plate at 480 yards with both an Accupower and a Razor MOA. Based on what I'm seeing and the subtensions, the Vortex Razor has thicker reticle (.5 MOA) than the Accupower, so you may want to confirm what you read about the Trijicon being ridiculously thick since it's half the thickness of the Razor. btw, if you are comparing scopes, I'd highly recommend Strelok pro - you can visualize the reticle before you buy and get your holds based on various bullets and external ballistics.
  4. Here's a quick video from the GoPro so you can see most of the process. edited out about 2 minutes of things that didn't clear the case. I'd call this redneck engineering ... but since the idea came from a brit, I think the proper term is chav engineering. I should point out that I was the only PCC shooter in the squad to go 1-for-1 on every 200 yard target I engaged on this stage
  5. I use the Safariland pouches and they've been solid. http://www.safariland.com/products/holsters-and-gear/gear/pouches-cases-and-holders/competition/magazine/model-773-competition-open-top-magazine-pouch-11183.html#sz=12&start=32 http://www.safariland.com/magazine/model-774-rifle-magazine-pouch-11184.html#start=1 http://www.safariland.com/products/holsters-and-gear/gear/pouches-cases-and-holders/competition/holders/model-086-double---8-shotgun-shell-holder-model_086_8.html#start=1
  6. I've seen a lot of Calvin Elites at our club matches each month. I run one and at least 3 other people in my squad last week at black rifle match had them. I haven't seen any light strikes.
  7. Might get more response in the PCC forum: https://forums.brianenos.com/forum/318-pistol-caliber-carbine/
  8. just posted in another thread about 3gun triggers. For 3gun I'd stick to one of the triggers in that list: Timney, KE-Arms, ELF are the ones I see most frequently winning stages around here.
  9. I've never had the experience of pulling the trigger before it resets. Hyperfire ECL and ELF definitely have strong resets I ran an ECL for a long time and loved it Then I saw the Timney CE and got one ... that's been the one for me. I feel like it helped my long range also. I'd add KE-Arms SLT1 or SLT2 to this list if you want a fast trigger. I use it on my PCC and it's got a great reset and can outrun my trigger finger. https://www.facebook.com/KEArmsOfficial/posts/frank-proctor-shooting-running-the-slt-trigger-in-this-pcc-i-am-really-digging-t/1540253402771774/ Many of the gun shops around here have a lot of triggers on display - see if you can find a shop that has some of these triggers and go squeeze them.
  10. thanks - I was mostly worried that I'd have more problems in the next match ... but it ran fine in the match last weekend on two rifle stages. I can't identify any issue with the mag ... but I'm saving it for the next time I do malfunction practice.
  11. I don't know much about diagnosing root cause of failures, so wondering if someone with more experience can tell me/confirm if this was a magazine failure or if there is something else I should be fixing. I had two failures last Saturday: Here is stage 3 This one was a failure on my 2nd shot. The round just didn't ignite. The round I got at the end looked fine. It had a dimple on the primer. I ejected 2 rounds while assessing this one - I'm not sure if the round I got was the failed round which I ejected first or the 2nd round I ejected. This one felt like a high primer ... but I can't tell for sure. I had written it off as me not pushing hard enough on the 550b handle ... until I got to stage 5 (below). (note that the click on the 2nd spool was bolt locked open and me not closing it) stage 5 - this was a double feed Failure occurs on my 2nd shot ... so when that happened the 2nd time in 1 day I started thinking that maybe I was having some other problem. Mag is a pmag - it's about 10 years old but actually hasn't seen much use - mostly has been loaded in a safe with a pmag cover on it. I'd estimate I've used it maybe 25-30 times. The deliberate load sequence is in the video so you can see how loading occurred if that helps there were 30 rounds in the mag - no barney round. I did a deliberate load and a press check, closed dust cover When I assessed the failure I saw 2 unfired rounds in classic double-feed position. I don't know where the "double feed" yell came from ... that's definitely not a habit I should continue = fail #1 I dropped the mag, cleared the rounds out by reaching into the magwell, then re-inserted the mag that was on the ground = fail #2 Both live rounds were on the ground at the end. You can see round #1 eject. Upper is BCM BHF 14.5" stock and Quentin Defense Brake lower is SunDevil with VLTOR A5 standard buffer has about 420 rounds since last cleaning/lube This is the first and second failure with this gun (my log has it at 2161 rounds before this stage.) (note: I realized on shot #2 that I had re-inserted the bad mag instead of a new one, so I lost some time during the transition with a unplanned/fumbled reload. So I know I need to practice failures more and leave the bad mag on the ground). So I have two process errors I have to fix ... just looking for help Stage wasn't a total loss ... got 2nd place, but a little bummed since I didn't clear the failure as fast as I should have. So normally I'd just throw out a magazine ... but since it happened twice on the same day I'm wondering if I'm missing something ... After looking it through I'm at a conclusion that stage 3 failure was a high primer and stage 5 is a bad mag. Am I missing anything? thanks
  12. I use the sundevil ADIGS adjustable gas key on one rifle and it works great. It was simple to set up and it's been perfect since install. In my most recent build I installed an adjustable gas block and I'm regretting it ... It's more of a pain to adjust than the gas key.
  13. Or get the VLTOR A5 buffer system (made in Tucson). But actually I'd say shoot more and learn more before you do too many upgrades. I've learned that after the buzzer goes off I never notice the sound of the action spring and it has never slowed anyone down. the best way to learn long range is to go shoot it. Practice with targets at varying distances and learn exactly where to hold for each target. You'll start to see how good/bad your ammo is beyond 200 yards. If you are at a public range just move the target to every possible distance and take pictures so you know exactly where your bullets are going. 2nd best way for me was to learn ballistics. For the price of 2 boxes of good ammo you can buy the basic training software at https://shooterready.com. This will get you a really good intro on exterior ballistics and you can use the simulator software as sort of a game to try it out. that software emphasizes using the turrets, but you don't have to do that - you can figure out the range and then adjust your holds. But understanding all the variables of exterior ballistics helped me learn much more than I would have learned shooting 2 boxes of ammo. 3rd thing to do is to get a ballistic app and program it. After you learn the details of exterior ballistics you'll be able to get all the data into a picture that shows exactly where to hold in your scope (or red dot). I use Strelok Pro because I like the visual overlay of the reticle. While you are doing all that, keep shooting. www.azmatchfiner.com will give you most of the known AZ matches. There's a black rifle match up here in Mesa next Saturday - you'll get a lot of rifle practice there and there will be a bunch of people willing to help spot and give you corrections. sign-up is at https://www.practiscore.com/rio-salado-black-rifle-may-2019/register (go to practiscore and search for "black rifle" and you should be able to find it each month.) Registration opens Monday at 600p and is usually full by 615p.
  14. After recently seeing the Trijicon Accupower 1-8x hands on, I think that would be my go to scope. Glass was every bit as good as the Kahles. I like the 3GR reticle more, but I was very impressed with that accupower.
  15. you could try Riton: https://www.ritonoptics.com/product-category/optics/riflescopes/ Or Atibal: https://atibal-optics.com/# I know people who bought these for bargain optics and liked them so much they put them on their match guns.
  • Create New...