MikeBurgess

the racker itself looks a lot like the Shooters Connection Sidewinder that someone has tried to make look more like a Brazos Zig racker. the cut looks wrong for either

good ammo feeding = mags are maintained and and filled with good ammo less muzzle flip = grip the gun (this sounds mean but I know guys shooting limited with less flip than most shooting open, I know a guy that shot production with a G34 with less flip than any open gun I have ever seen. comps help but the shooter matters 100x more) there is not magic bullet in open gun design, if one comp design was enough better to matter everyone would use the same comp, if stoked was an advantage that mattered they would all be stroked, basically there is variety because the differences are so small they just don't matter.

nope,

you can cut the slide channels with a key cutter, keep in mind that the area that needs to be removed only comes into play at the very end of the slides rearward travel so cutting that area oversized really has no impact on the slide fit when in battery where we care about it, its just a matter of getting it out of the way of the frame rails on a short dust cover frame there would be a visible gap between the frame and the rear of the dust cover, it would still "work" it would just look like crap. doing it on a sight block would be just fine like you said those are just comps without ports. in the end its a interesting modification that I think on a 19/2011 is really a solution in search of a problem. I have shot a bunch of different open guns and the stroked guns didn't stand out from the others in any way.

you could get a regular slide stop and trim it to match the rear cut

on a 19/2011 you have to EITHER recut the rails or extend the slots they run in inside the slide, Atlas extended the slots inside the slide on the one I looked at. on a Tanfoglio you just have to cut the dust cover, In either case you need to make sure your springs do go to coil bind and if they do you will need to trim them so they don't

I have no experience with this thumb rest but on regular slide stops on some 2011 frames I have had to radius the back lower edge of the slide stop to clear the radius in the frame pocket where the slide stops fits.

the problem I see is that a tool as described would likely cost more to manufacture and sell than a the cost of a new slide.

Not a bad idea, just be realistic on what you think you are learning, gun handling, aiming, shooting sooner, calling shots are probably great to focus on, "double taps" are probably the wrong thing to focus on because that's really saying training recoil control and timing and at minor both will be very different. On the bright side unless you have some strange problems with recoil control you can work on all the stuff that will cut real time off your stages, a couple hundredths off your splits wont.

I tried,

Interesting to see that they just weld up X5 barrels, I figured I was just doing it the hard way when I used factory parts to make a similar setup for a friend.

easier than a rubber band is to install the mainspring housing almost all the way, after you install the sear spring and ensure its sitting properly, this will hold the sear spring in place and allow you to install the grip safety ( just slide the mainspring housing down just enough to let you put this in ) and thumb safeties.

Just shoot a Revo for a while, its the actual shortcut to GM, Ask me how I know

you could probably toss them in a tumbler for a a while without issue,

My experience has been standing at the bench "testing" you will be able to feel the difference, BUT shooting a stage likely you won't, while shooting a stage if you have a mix of ammo you may notice they sound different but it is less likely you will see anything in the sights that will make any difference at all. For me the aha moment was a local match i was totally un prepared for, I had to grab the last few rounds form several batches of 9mm ammo I had laying around. some 160 grain coated some 147 some 124 some 115 factory, just dumped it all in a box and went to the match, I made no effort to sort them and just loaded whatever I grabbed in to he mags mixed. pop POP bang BANG BANG pop, I start running the first stage and the noise was all over the place but then I noticed the sights just went up and down like normal.

I had to think about this, I think I look at the center of the star, honestly never thought about it much. For me its eyes on the reload till the rounds start falling into the cylinder then its eyes on the target while closing and re-establishing grip. I have found I need to change how I do reloads between speed loaders and moon clips. The issue is either the cylinder or new ammo or both need to be able to rotate so the rounds will enter the chambers. With moon clips my right index finger pushes the cylinder open and remains in contact with the cylinder while either dropping the moonclip onto the cylinder for most reloads or driving them in with my index finger when doing a reload while moving a up range, either allowing the moon to rotate to match the cylinder With a speed loader I need to make sure my index finger is off the cylinder to allow it to rotate to align with the speed loader that need to hold on to.

I had a stroke at 49 that got me motivated to spend more time doing what I love, had been B class for life for years and got motivated and made GM (revo so it only sort of counts)at 51. Now I'm lazy and not putting in the work but I can still hang with the lower M's in Open Your only as old as you think you are and whatever you think you will be right.

and in this case it is, raw unfit parts to build a quality 19/2011 run about $2k

unfortunately people are stupid and emotional and will react accordingly.

I haven't played with the Gray Guns version, but I have built a couple for a friend using sig factory parts and some machine tools.

I weak hand reload and made GM with a low 2 second reload. I think super fast reloads are great on stand and shoot stages, but for actual match performance being able to reload reliably and safely (muzzle discipline) while moving in any direction reasonably quickly is more important. When I was shooting reasonably well shoot move 8 feet reload and shoot was about 3 seconds.

seems to work

I have swapped parts between a Springfield P9 and a EAA Gold Team so figure 90s vintage to 2010 or so.

depends on your goal, if you are having lots of buildup scraping it out with a pick works pretty well, if you just want your gun to look clean including inside the comp then probably a combination of scrape out any buildup and a ultrasonic cleaner followed by a sprits of case lube to keep the next layer from sticking. Shooting Major PF loads I can shoot thousands of round without having problematic buildup, sure the inside of the comp gets black and there is a little buildup in the areas of the comp where the gas is not moving as fast like some of the corners (actually kind of cool to see where the gas is flowing or not).

it would simulate inserting with the slide Locked Back. with a 2011 if your slide is back the only thing stopping most competition magazines from over inserting is the mag release in the magazine notch. This may be hard to replicate if your not doing a full speed reload, as in ramming the mag into place very hard, not just pushing on it or hitting it after its locked into the release.