MikeBurgess

I'm not sure there is a difference between "good enough" and "perfect", they both fall in the category of just aim and shoot and don't think about it any more. that said I really don't sweat it much on my draw, I have a slow draw to begin with (its rare I can beat 1 second on anything not contact distance normally in the 1.3 ish range for 7yd As) so if its not good enough when I drag it out of the holster it gets adjusted on its way up. Honestly when I was working hard and going faster I adjusted my grip as I presented the gun more often than not.

I think if moving from Revo go to the other end of the spectrum and shoot open, I think they are actually a great paring ,everything in between is a compromise. Full hard to Full easy (overall placement wise)

Here is a link to a full 1911 drawing set, you should be able to find the dimensions you are looking for on it. https://www.m1911.org/M1911-A1_REDUX.pdf Now to the real question of how much you can remove and where, 1911 slides seem to crack in the area of the ejection port most I have seen are right side front or back of port and left side at the internal step in front of the breach face where the barrel chamber sits. this would lead me to the conclusion that removing material from either side in this area would likely be un desirable. We know we can flat top and tri top slides with acceptable results so your most likely road to success lightening a slide while retaining its general appearance would be to lower the top radius by some amount similar to what's removed during a tri topping. Lets say we lower the top of the slide .030" on a 5" slide with a Novak sight cut the reduction in weight should be just under 1 OZ

thanks

I have a similar project coming up, I would really appreciate dimensions

you might be surprised how much you can clean with a can of brake cleaner, take the top end off and hose the crap out of the action, most of the grime will be removed then add your favorite oil and call it good, do a deep cleaning a couple times a year depending on the volume you shoot. If you feel like spending more money Gun Scrubber or Hoppes Gun Medic in a spray can also works well.

And this would fix the NROI gymnastics required to not either/both, bump to Open (dot is required!) and/or DQ (5.1.8-10.6 removing sight without RM approval) a shooter whos dot falls off during a stage.

you could swap a open top end onto that lower if you can find one for sale, you could have a smith setup a new barrel and comp (such as PD as mentioned above) and run it with that slide, you could also have that barrel ported to line up with the ports in the slide running minor you have lots of options.

I would run whatever combination of ammo and springs results in 100% reliability, after that and I mean way down the list I would worry about what combination gets the dot to return to the spot it left from, then about 200 places further down the list I would worry about how flat the gun is.

But back to the OPs question, I haven't been in the game for 30 years but in my 15ish I have seen open guns get way more reliable in general. the biggest issue with 9 major is ammo. There are 100s of 9mm brass head stamps and they are not all equal. there are 100s of different guns designs shooting 9mm and doing god knows what to the brass in the process. IMHO if you shoot 9mm in an open gun you need a roll sizer or a friend with one. on the other hand 38 has about 4 head stamps and I don't think any are garbage, and any found on the ground were likely not shot out of Hi Point.

Did someone say P9?

I must have got lucky, a few months back I got a new 627 .357 cylinder from S+W for under $100 and it arrived in less than a week.

not so much scenarios, what I do is try to start with an idea of what skill/skills I want to test, then I work out from that, if you need ideas for that watch peoples match videos on FB/Instagram etc and when you see something that seems cool try to figure out what it was that made it cool and how you could work that into one of your stages. For inspiration or better yet just using as is there are thousands stages easily found by googling USPSA or IPSC stages. A couple pieces of advice for anyone new to stage design 1) its a learned skill, your fist stages may suck, dont let it stop you, learn and get better. 2) stages cant and shouldn't attempt to be everything to everyone all the time, balance comes from several stages testing different aspects of the sport when viewed as a group. 3) stages do not have "INTENT" there is just what is on the wsb and how the stage was built, it will get gammed and thats ok. 4) how stages actually get set up makes more difference than how its drawn. moving props and targets during setup, often an inch or two one way or another makes a huge difference. 5) when looking for shoot throughs don't look from where YOU would shoot a target look from look from everywhere a target could be shot from, as in bullet grazes edge of wall on left side of port and just breaks the perf on the right side of the target and vise versa on every possible place to shoot said target. 5b) remember all shooters are not your height, so look at targets as if your 4' tall and 7' tall does this cause any issues, the big one is the junior shooter shooting a head box and the bullet going over the berm, remember the head is part of the target even if there is not hard cover.

I would look at how the front of the grip is fitting in the front of the magwell to get that to line up better but I would also want it to be snug on the pin so there is no movement when its installed. so find the tight spot take a little off see how it fits, repeat till perfect. Most of working on 19/2011s is an exercise in putting it together testing a fit and taking it apart making a small adjustment and repeating over and over and over till its right.

As long as we are spending your money, the BMT mooning/de-mooning tool for the 627 is the best money I spent on revolver equipment. Short Colts are 100% the way to go, 3 things to know about loading them, 1, you can run the OAL longer than spec for either a SC or a 9mm, I'm usually right at 1.2 2, your shooting them in a 357 rated gun not a turn of the century antique to any SC load data you see in a manual is likely useless. 3, I have had bad luck with lighter bullets like 130 grainers, I believe its because the bullet leaves the case before getting to the throat, 147+ has been great

the best thing I found when loading 357 sig was the Lee factory crimp die, it is a collet type crimp that closes as it hits the case plate so its crimp works the same regardless of the case length

I made a lot of progress and changed my grip after a few rage sessions shooting Bens doubles drill at 5 to 7 yards. Take a bucket of ammo the the range set up a target and start railing doubles, do a few clips then change your grip or change your finger position on the trigger and run some more clips and see if its better or worse keep changing stuff till you find what works best for you. I had a hard time with this drill because it seemed like a lot of ammo to spend on targets that were easy to hit, but the payoff was actually worth it for me. What I found for me (likely you will be different) when shooting fast splits at closer ranges I found my accuracy was better with a lower grip than what I had been using.

I wouldn't likely do it but there are lots of guys that are looking to buy some performance so I could see them wanting different guns for different stages for a 50 yard standard (or other extreme accuracy stage) a very very heavy very stable gun for a 5 yard hoser stage a light weight gun for the rest I would use something in between like most of us shoot now. is it a real problem? likely not, but is having it against the rules to use multiple guns a bad thing? I think not

I got a lot out of the cadence drill I shot in a class years ago. I think we were about 5 yards 3 targets a target width or so apart. shoot 2 on each with equal splits and transitions, start slow like no brainer i can shoot and transition and hit the letter A speed then each run go faster and faster till failure. the focus is really on the transitions that's why the idea is even cadence the on target split is just there to make you stop the gun on each target. For me the big light bulb was going faster and faster till the hits fell apart, I found that what I thought was the limit was no where near where the hits said it was, also having an instructor standing over your shoulder saying FASTER after every run was helpful

Would you also need a longer than standard recoil spring guide rod?

Seems the 2011 manufacturers have been targeting the tactical market pretty hard and in that market the 4.25 will sell better because of the impression that its better for concealment (the fact that many are adding red dots mag wells and flash lights that all add to the bulk of the gun) In the case of a range toy I would get whatever gun you like better, that's really the only metric that matters at all.

It actually comes down to perception, NONE of the advantages of a LO gun make a scoring difference in anyone with a reasonable skill level, BUT people believe they do and act as if their assumption is correct

Open is not dying A friend of mine data mined uspsa matches on practiscore with all the data from before CO and PCC existed till mid last year graphed out the trends were crystal clear, if it has iron sights its dead or dying. this is what participation looked like Open Unchanged Limited Dying rapidly Production Dead SS was never doing well and still not Revo still a rounding error L10 still dumb PCC peaked about 2 years ago and has leveld off CO exploded and continues to grow

Oh it 100% does I have at times in my time here been a competitor, but that was short lived, I spent several years playing, took it seriously for about 2 and went back to playing.

The real answer is this If someone is a competitor they give ZERO Fs if a 2011 fits in CO or Limited or Open or PCC because they are getting equipment that fits the division they want to compete in.