MikeBurgess

Another thing to think about is, most High HF stages are mostly close targets, on close targets there is really no excuse to shoot Cs the As are right there so you should take them, it really doesn't take enough more time to matter and if you go into it saying its OK to shoot Cs you will just shoot more of them. Aim for the As but go fast while doing it, yes you will pick up a C here and there but aim for Cs and you will get lots of them and it wont be any faster. Where the math really comes in is on partial targets, maybe aiming at the center of the available target keeps you far enough from the NS or HC to be safe and fast enough that the lower points are acceptable. Balance the risk witht he reward.

So first option would be Qualified Gunsmith, but the local one you mention doesn't seem qualified. Second option, sanding on a flat surface is relatively quick and easy. A few pointers that may help, use good emery cloth or wet/dry sandpaper maybe start with 180 grit and go down as you get closer to size, I do quire a bit with 400 grit. Use some sort of oil ( wd40 works good for this but I've cutting oil and motor oil as well) to keep the sandpaper from clogging and wearing out, you will be shocked by how much faster sandpaper cuts when you keep it wet. Third option, jump down the rabbit hole and buy a milling machine, I started out with sandpaper and some files, now I have 3 mills and an ever increasing collection of tooling.

Good point, my experience is 90% USPSA type shooting where flirting with a few too many Cs isnt like makeup shots on steel.

yes, I would also want to do quite a bit of live fire with target focus. With target focus you are working in a wired in between place, where on any given target difficulty you may be able to get acceptable hits with less visual information than you would initially think so life fire is the only way to know what you need to see in dry fire. not sure about the 10% figure, but that gets into a whole time perception thing. when I'm pushing speed on targets and the accuracy goes away then start to focus hard and make sure I'm calling good shots my perception is that I have taken forever to make the shots, the timer usually says that it didn't. My perception of time is faulty and I have to work at making myself ignore it.

I just ran my program straight from the end of the 60deg to inline with the link pin (Y0 in my case) most of the barrels I have fit lately are truncated there anyway so very little of that line is cut.

I found that while I thought I needed to see the front sight better to shoot irons more accuratly I can actually shoot target focused irons just as accurately its just very weird at first and takes a lot of rounds to get comfortable with. that said the biggest thing is likely figuring out out to ignore the clock in your head that is screaming at you that you are wasting time waiting for the sight picture you need. My theory on dots vs irons is this, Dots give you digital information, the instant you see the dot you know where the bullet will go. Irons give you analog information that builds over time, as in, you can see the gun and know sort of where its pointed then as you refine the sight picture and over lay that with the target you get more and more information on where the bullet will go. When switching between the two you need to give yourself permission to allow the time for the irons information to grow to where you need it.

likely either a bad crimp or bad case. do some quick testing, measure your OALs then shoot 4 to 7 rounds and remeasure the remaining rounds, do this through several clips and number of rounds shot. if you see any OAL growth you need to look at your crimp and case tension to stop it. ps you also probably want to mark a couple rounds and run them 2 or more times through the test with firing the other 7 to account for unfired rounds that get recycled

I wonder if they are having Caspian make the frames for them or did they just copy their style? Other than taking a GLOCK mag I would have identified that as a Caspian DS frame, if it is I wonder if the EGW Caspian magwell would fit on it, also alumagrips makes grip panels for Caspian DS.

some fun math that may help you. current load / current PF x Desired Power factor = new load 3.5/101=.0346... x 130=4.5 grains math is cool and you can tell that the CFE is very linear in this range using your data 101pf /3.5grains =28.857... x 4grains = 115.42PF only off by 0.58 pf from your test

This will be a moving target for you for the rest of your shooting career. As your skills change the targets you can shoot while moving will change. When you practice set up mini stage sections nothing huge or complicated as simple as shoot this target move to point B and shoot that target (or the same target) try to mimic presentations you are seeing in matches. shoot the "stage" in different ways and see how the timer and targets say they worked. when you look at the timer look at more than the final time, really look at where the time went.

Nice job, Caution it can be addictive, I did my first one with files and stones, now I have 2 manual mills a lathe and a CNC mill

if you want to build the gun go for it. If you are building it specifically for competition then you probably should rethink it. for a competition specific gun look at what most everyone else is using there is usually a reason. but like i said if you just want one and you want to shoot matches with it, do it and don't worry about weather you will get crushed in open or not. I have shot almost every gun I own that could fit a division in a USPSA match, from a 5 shot 44 spl. to 220 Power Factor 10mm GLOCK 20 to a Daewoo DP51 to a 357 Sig GLOCK Open gun to a Ruger P85. Run what you want and enjoy it.

I'm sure it will work fine, CFE is reasonably clean powder yes its slower than we tend to go for but really in the end it likely wont matter enough to notice after the beep. years ago I was messing around with 170 grain bullets in 9mm and was a bit scared of using fast powder so I loaded them with Blue Dot. they ran fine and were not even noticeably dirtier than normal loads

on the larger topic of training reaction time I think that's a good thing, training trigger pull reaction time to audible signal is likely less useful. I want my trigger pull to be driven by my vision not my ears.

I would be willing to bet the audible is faster than visual because with audible you are waiting for any spike in input, vs visual where your brain has to decode a continuous stream of visual data and then react to the change in that data. think about what happens if your amped up for a audible start signal and you hear anything "loud" most will start going then later realize it wasn't the signal they were waiting for.

100% he will if its not the same match as CO he may or may not put on a mag well either way it wont matter.

The initial slide motion when the gun is fired is by far the largest G load on the slide and optic. Watch some slow motion video of a pistol firing and you will see the bullet leave the barrel before any thing else seems to move, at the instant the bullet leaves the barrel the slide starts slowing down for the rest of the rearward travel. I was talking to someone in the industry the other day and they were talking G loads up to 10k on firing

I have a small cnc and have milled the feet with the barrel square to the x axis and programed in the 1 degree, lots of math in the program but it worked fine, I ended up making a jig to hold the barrel at 1 degree so I could more easily write a program that was adjustable at the machine to allow me to walk my way in to the fit I wanted also it allows me to throw it on the manual mill if needed.

This discussion is why good ROs do not use the same cadence for every shooter, its very easy to cut this time well down if you know the guy an the clock has a cadence, you can even go early and get away with it because he will have a lag in his ability to know it was actually early

the whole reaction time discussion is a fun one, and make the news at the last World Athletics (track and field) Championships. In high level Track competitions the starting blocks have pressure sensors in them to detect false starts, the false start criteria is you start pushing off before 0.1 AFTER the gun sounds a US competitor pushed of at 0.99 and was DQed. for it

10 yard A will be .2-.3 25 yard 10 .5-1.5 a lot of this has to do with what you mean by "goal of hitting" if its just my intention to shoot an A or 10 but if a C or a 9 means I need to make up the shot the times are going to average higher, not because I will start pulling the trigger slower but I will slow or stop the pull if the sights say the shot isn't going to go where I want it to.

Just to be clear on the 5" cycles slower aspect, yes it feels different but its still done way way before you are ready to shoot again. for example I can run .12 splits on hoser targets with a full profile un-lightened 9mm 2011 with a slide mounted dot. You may prefer how one feels or looks and that is totally valid, but neither will hold you back.

I reload weak hand with both moon clips and speed loaders. I push push the cylinder open with my strong hand index finger. With speed loaders I need to make sure I move my index finger off the cylinder so it can rotate freely before my strong hand gets there with the speed loader. This allows the cylinder to rotate to lign up with the rounds in the speed loader that can't rotate because you are holding on to it. The other thing to think about loading with speed loaders is to push them in till they release then forget they exist. I see way too many people push them in then pull them back and toss them to the side then go back to closing the cylinder. Push click close cylinder gravity will get rid of the loader for you

Double tap

The thing is if I shoot LO with my G17 MOS with a connector and lighter recoil spring or my 2011 with a magwell heavy frame and SA trigger my actual scores will be indistinguishable. 100% the 2011 feels way better and looks cool and has an awesome trigger, but after the beep the plastic crap box GLOCK shoots just as many As just as fast.