matteekay

400 loaded moons would be 2400 - 3200 loaded rounds...

Jeez, and I thought *I* missed a lot...

I think most of these have been sufficiently answered but, if there's one thing I enjoy, it's offering my unqualified opinion. So here we go! People have given a lot of good resources on this. I found that I saw the most improvement by reading over some techniques, and then dry-firing against a white wall while watching how the sight moves. Find the most comfortable and repeatable trigger pull and practice that. Don't chase the sight, but know how it moves at different pull speeds (I "kentucky windage" up slightly when I'm running it really fast). Grips are one of those things that are easy to mess with until the end of time. Get used to shooting the gun with whatever you have and you will probably "feel" what you'd want to change, and then you can find grips to match (try as many as you can get your hands on, literally). I just changed my N-Frame grips to put some more meat across the webbing of my hand because it makes it feel closer to my other revolvers; let's see if I still like it in three months though, lol. There isn't a better reload. Go with what feels more natural to you and practice the crap out of it. I only recently switched to the strong hand reload; it's still a hair slower at the moment, but it significantly reduces the chance of a horrendously botched reload. Especially when running. Light marring in the plating is fine. The main thing is testing the load for accuracy; if it groups well, you're not over-crimping. If you decide to pursue .38 Short Colt, it's better to do it right and buy dedicated Starline .38 SC brass. It has the proper cartridge wall thickness all the way through and you'll get very consistent moonclip fit with all-matching brass. Tight without being rock-solid is best. A little give will help the rounds drop in when your reload isn't 100%, but too loose can let the rounds pivot away from the charge holes.

Fair. Anyhow, the joke was really about the founder/sponsor of IDPA, not what guns are actually used.

I should know better than to joke about IDPA rules. (Though I, too, see very few Wilsons. Far more Wessons in that price range, and Springfields in the lower one. Other than the Wilson Combat team, of course...)

They are now, yes. The answer is to simply mill a "Wilson Combat" logo into your slide. All of a sudden, everything becomes legal.

This thread is from 2015 (before the new rulebook).

I'm guessing the "retro" division aligns with the "unnamed organization's" Classic division? Doubt I can make it, but nice to see people putting on a big match!

I wouldn't be opposed to this, actually. Yep. If you want to weight the point furthest from the muzzle, please feel free, lol.

OOO OOO OOO! I know that one! ...it's ICORE, isn't it? Right? ...guys...? The big problem with weight is the manufacturers very rarely list accurate numbers. You'll typically see the same weight for a .45 and 9mm, and sometimes even railed or not. That being said, if we WERE taking a vote, I'd just request 1-2 more ounces (so 44 or 45) as I feel that would cover railed single stacks without getting ridiculous. As it sits, I'm just going to get this gun under weight and call it good.

Email Freedom Ordnance. I actually bought a spare upper from them and they had barrels to sell, as well (at the time). Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk

Mostly referencing the joke I made to NROI about Production loaning SS some ounces. From a gaming/rules standpoint, it's a little hard to rationalize the weight limit in Production being so much higher when SS is required to have metal frames. Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk

Looking at tri-topping a slide and having a surprisingly hard time finding a smith. Does anyone have a recommendation for a place I can send it? Preferably someone who can Cerakote or hard chrome it after. Thanks! Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk

That's fine, and I intend to play within the rules. It's just a little annoying that Production (largely plastic guns) has an extra pound over guns that are mandated to be metal-framed. Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk

Yup, Dawson ICE with an aluminum housing. The grip safety is a good idea; I bet swapping the stainless steel one for an aluminum one would get me most of the way there. I'm a little nervous about using an aluminum one, though; I thought most manufacturers discontinued them because the trigger "tab" was prone to bending. I'll throw it all on a scale and start swapping parts around. If I really need to shave weight, I'll probably look at frame windows or tri-topping (since it also looks badass).

I had no intention of buying one - it was just a good example of a factory ported slide.

I figured I hadn't harassed NROI in a bit so I sent them an email including some pictures of factory-ported slides. Troy's response is basically what you said: "as long as the milling doesn’t make a hole or slot through the slide it’s permitted. None of the examples you provided would be legal if the cuts go all the way through, and the slides can’t be swapped." Thankfully, I didn't drop $1500 on a Kimber Rapide that can't be shot in Single Stack... The gun already has a GI guide rod and is still about half an ounce overweight. I'll swap the G10 grips for those Magpul ones and see how close it gets. Next step would be slide milling, or maybe I can get it reclassified as a Production gun and free up another pound...

I feel like I'm constantly confused about how much slide milling is allowed for Single Stack in USPSA. I have a partially-railed 1911, which means I'm always trying to cut some weight to make it under the 43 oz cap. I won't even point out how ridiculous this is in light of the new heavyweight Production rule changes... Anyhow, D5.21 states: • Milling of the slide to insert sights, add or remove serrations, such as cocking or flat topping, tri-topping the slide, lowering ejection ports, cuts that are minor and cosmetic in nature are permitted. • Duplicating features that are on a factory, mass produced slide available to the general public is permitted. Cuts that are designed to specifically or significantly lighten the slide, such as holes, or slots, are ruled as competitive advantage and prohibited. The second bullet seems to be in conflict with itself. Say I got a slide machined to match a S&W Performance Center 1911, Kimber Rapide, or Nighthawk President - all have ports that are clearly designed to reduce the weight of the slide, but they're also all "factory, mass-produced slides". Does this mean I can have a slide milled to reduce weight as long as it matches a slide that's on the market? How would you even go about proving that at a big match? And what about companies who make milled slides but not full guns, like Heavy Armor Division? Can they mill my slide to match their offerings since it's "mass produced"?

Wait, so... do I own 170mm Staccato magazines now? That just sounds... off. They can call themselves what they want, but making your brand the same name as its product is a little confusing.

I was running a .357 in IDPA for a bit. Honestly, I didn't mind the thump. The bigger issue was trying to reload those long, skinny cases efficiently, which is why I switched to a .40 . I actually just sold off my 9mm Rhinos and I'm going all .40/major from here on out. I don't notice any difference in recoil and the reload times make it worth it.

My homebrew open gun is a little... different. Possibly stupid. So, just like me! I built it on a STI short dustcover frame. It's chambered in 45 ACP, with the optic milling by JL Machineworks and 8 barrel ports done by Magnaport. The frame and magwell are cerakoted Sniper Gray.

I used diamond-impregnated rubber bits on my dremel. Just enough to knock down the sharpest areas (the corner and the top of the ridges).

I found it was easier to reshape my existing safeties than to retrofit one that's retained in a different manner. Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk

I don't think it's needed, per say, but I actually wouldn't mind seeing it as a special recognition category. Hell, open it up to all divisions - if you're crazy enough to shoot 8 rounds of full-house .357 before a reload, more power to you.

I was gonna say... I think this was one of the suggestions we voted on a few months back (as well as Rimfire and Snub Nose). I shoot L6 more than any other division, and I shoot major revolvers in all of the other sports (full-blown USPSA major, not that cute IDPA power floor ). I don't feel like I need any special recognition for bringing my 40's to play in ICORE; I've weighed out the pros and cons, and I'll take a little more palm-slap in exchange for faster reloads and a guarantee that steel is going down with a passable hit. L6 is typically the most poorly-attended division as it is, so further fracturing isn't going to help anything. I like the idea of keeping the division unified and adjusting scoring, in theory, but I can't figure out a good way to make that work. Of course, I still lose all the time, so maybe I should just focus on winning chrono from now on...