matteekay

First time shooting out at Frostproof. Anything specific to consider? I've been working on condensing how much I carry at matches in preparation of flying out to LoCap Nats but I wasn't sure if there were any range tips to consider.

Good to know. Thank you!

Sorry, could you clarify? Do what now?

+1 to everything Pat said - he's given me lots of good advice, but this is probably the best. My groups get better as I go on like yours do. I'll actually slow down my first two shot pairs if it's early in a match. Only a fraction of a second or so, but it helps me get everything locked in for the rest of the stage. I can even see some wobble in my dry fire on the first shots after the draw – working on it, though.

I couldn't find any info on their website so I sent them an email. No reply yet but it's only been a couple days.

Still nothing on ammo shipments? I'll be running them off this week but kinda need to know where to send it, lol.

Hannibal and I are looking into this one. Hoping I can get back out there!

You sunnuva.... Lol. Toolguy has saved the day! I'm also going to make a solid retention screw per everyone's suggestion. It really is a bummer that Smith invented a new point of failure just to save time/money on assembly. Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk

I had an interesting reload while competing at the USPSA state championship last weekend. Running into the last arrays on my last stage (because of course), I popped the cylinder open, ejected a spent moon, and went to drop in a new one only to find that I didn't have a cylinder any more. After taking the zero on the stage and finding all of the pieces of my gun, we figured out that the crane slipped past the yoke screw (S&W 627 with the new plunger-style screw) and out of the gun. It looks like there were a few contributing factors - the screw had loosened somewhat, the plunger/spring had separated from the screw, and the crane was sporting this shiny divot: I've been experimenting at home and I can get the crane to repeat this by loosening the yoke screw two turns, opening the cylinder all the way, and then pulling it straight out of the gun. I've already ordered new yoke screws and I'm looking into sourcing a new crane now (the new style is proving hard to come by). If anyone has any creative ideas on how to spare this crane I'm all ears, but I don't see a way to fully guarantee it won't happen again. Does anyone know what would cause this damage to occur?

I've finally, finally starting doing this. It's a really good way to learn how fast is too fast, as well. Unfortunately, for me, too fast is probably "slow" in the grand scheme of things, lol.

A polymer frame, Glock slide, and striker operated firing system. Only half kidding. I absolutely adore 19/2011's and don't even own a Glock, but chasing reliability on a 100+ year old gun seems like a tougher proposition than going with a modern platform. XD's aside (ducks). Having said all that, my RIA doublestack was completely reliable in competition. The key thing for me was using the correct recoil spring for my load; it's been a minute, but I think it was an 11# spring with a 147. I've never heard of 4" being more reliable but I guess it's possible? Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk

I believe it's regular blued steel. My Charging Rhinos have some kind of silver coating but I dunno what it is. I'll drop you a PM in a bit, and thanks! Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk

I think this is the most likely culprit, exacerbated by a less than ideal moon/brass fit and potentially bullet profile and size. I just ran the Rhino at the IDPA state championship and, even though I brushed it out after every stage, I still had a moon or two that were stubborn going in (at the most inopportune times, of course). I'm not confident in my ability to run a reamer so I'm looking into smiths at the moment (for a honing at the bare minimum). I've just about used up my 40 bullets so I might try out some .400" FMJ's just to see if I notice any change on that front. Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk

Oh, the Thunder Pro / TRPC too. Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk

I'm thinking about occasionally shooting a division other than revolver. Since I clearly enjoy suffering, I though BUG might be a good way to go. Has anyone ever tried a PX4 Storm Subcompact (with low profile decockers, I'd imagine) or a Bersa Thunder or Thunder Plus? They're both guns that appeal to me but both seem to be right on the edge of fitting in the box. Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk

Not a crazy idea. I'm already using a FCD and gauging my ammo, but brass inconsistency would definitely cause an insertion issue.

Could be either (though there's a good chance the chambers are tight) as either would be exacerbated by powder buildup during a match. Do they even make reamers in 40? And can an idiot like me run one?

Hey all, I have a bit of an oddball question. I shoot a Chiappa Rhino in 40 S&W in IDPA (like I said, oddball) and I'm trying to work up an ideal moon clip/cartridge combo for insertion and ejection. The gun is admittedly finicky when it comes to brass - when I was using TK custom moons and mixed brass, I'd have loaded clips that wouldn't drop all the way into the cylinder and fired moons that I'd have to knock out with a tool. Changing to all Starline brass alleviated 99% of the problem but I still have the occasional moon that doesn't drop all the way in (especially when the gun gets dirty). This results in a random heavy trigger due to the cylinder dragging. And yes, I've checked that the clips aren't bent. One thought I had was swapping my 200 gr SNS coated lead bullets (sized .401") for something sized .400" (probably jacketed). Obviously it would be a very minor change but my thinking is that removing a tiny amount of friction from each of the six rounds could be just enough to improve overall fit. Has anyone ever experimented with bullet diameter as it related to moon clip fit? Or seen any difference in coated vs. jacketed?

I'm here for the ammo question. Unfortunately, I'm staying an hour away from the range (because Florida + children = Disney World).

I use a Flambeau tactical backpack for matches. Its main compartment is sized to fit two of their pistol hardcases and two mini ammo cans. I took one of the pistol cases and made this using delrin rod: It's sized to fit everything from my 627 moons loaded with .357 to my Chiappa Rhino moons loaded with 9mm (all of which can stack 2 deep). The best thing about it is that, when I'm running a second gun at a local match, I can load half with one set of moons and half with the other and generally have enough to shoot the whole match. Empty moons get dropped onto whatever posts are open. That being said, I'll probably change to one of the Plano craft/tackle cases when flying to matches. A little slimmer and less conspicuous in my luggage (I only want one pistol-looking case in my suitcase, and it should be the one with the guns, ha).

Similarly, I'm wondering if anyone has ever tried milling the slide on these. Seems like it would be a decent CO gun (despite being a few rounds short of several other options).

That's my problem. They build a surprisingly nice gun, and I don't even mind the 7-shot, but they port EVERYTHING. ICORE Limited with one less shot is very different than ICORE Open... Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk

Not normal at all! It's still clean enough that you can see some silver on the cylinder. Try changing to Unique powder, or shoot a Rhino like me. Then it'll be appropriately dirty .

That's a pretty hilarious (and a little disappointing) life hack. Unfortunately, flights were limited so I'm stuck with the 11# limit, meaning I have to ship either way. I'll probably contact the MD soon; I'll post any info here when I do.

I've actually reloaded Federal 38 Special at least 10 times (some pieces as many as 15+) and I'm only now starting to see the occasional split case. I think it helps that most of us are just making power and not pushing anything crazy-hot.