matteekay

Ty, What do you think about one of these for someone who isn't doing custom hand-loads? Is it still viable?

You know what? That actually would have been dumber, lol.

Thank you! I like that it's got some history and is older than me, ha. There's something special about older Smith's. That's a really good idea. This gun is my primary right now (Limited 6 shooter) but I'm hoping to add a 627 or 929 soon and then a deep cleaning might be just what the doctor ordered.

Got it. Maybe just running the gun harder rattled a few things loose (I imagine USPSA and ICORE are rougher than PPC). .006 sounds perfect. I should be able to attain that and cut endshake down without running into headspace issues too.

Good deal, thanks for the reply. I can't help but wonder if having the cylinder cut for moons is what caused this all of a sudden.

Howdy! Sorry for making still-another endshake thread but I couldn't find exactly what I was looking for when searching. I picked up this 10-7 a little ways back (used, it's older than me),modified it slightly, practiced with it a bunch, and ran it in USPSA for the first time last week: I had a handful of ignition failures with Federal American Eagle, which has never given me problems before. Amongst the usual suggestions to correct this (up the mainspring power, strain screw, etc), people suggested checking the endshake, headspace, and cylinder gap. These are the measurements I took: Cylinder Gap: 0.0" Headspace: 0.064" Endshake: 0.011" I've already ordered the Power Customs shims in both .002 and .004. Where do I want the cylinder to be? Also, does headspace decrease as endshake does? So, if I shim it by 0.006", will I get a cylinder gap of 0.006", headspace of 0.058", and endshake of 0.005"? I've also ordered a Power Custom hammer nose that's supposedly slightly longer than stock. Will I get into trouble trying to use that with reduced headspace?

The only advantage to the 6" is that it has that top rail. The 5" is still too big to carry but doesn't have that, so I'm really inclined to say go with a 4" (able to carry) or 6" (has top rail). That price is in the ballpark. A bit more than Bud's, but no shipping or transfer fees so it works out. Plus you get to actually hold it before paying! I built that holster. I wasn't psyched about the Chiappa one (but I do like their leather pancake). I don't know anyone who works on these, unfortunately. They were fast, though - they tell you six weeks, but I had it back in two each time.

Hey there, Dave! Chiappa actually cuts these for clips from the factory now. I will say, though, that even with TK clips, the rounds aren't as rigid as the Model 10-7 that I had TK custom cut. The Stage II came from Chiappa and was a whole saga unto itself: The gun came from the factory with an 11.3 lb pull. I paid for the Stage II and mailed the gun to them. The gun came back with an 8.5 lb pull (and kind of a sloppy return). It started having ignition issues - wouldn't light off anything but Federal consistently (factory loads), and then started having issues with those. Send it back, they returned it with an 11.1 lb pull. They received and angry email from me enquiring what I paid them $250 for. They took the gun back and returned it with a 9.5ish pound pull and reworked firing pin. It's been all good since then. Now, in their defense, I didn't pay a dime after my initial payment and they were definitely working to make it right. It also probably wouldn't have been an issue if I was set up to reload. I don't think the Rhino can ever be truly competitive (the trigger action just isn't right for it, especially on the return) but it's a lot of fun to be "that guy" at ICORE matches. It's not like I'm very good anyway, haha.

Okay, that looks like a blast. I guess I'm gonna have to buy a Hi Point carbine for some cheap fun...

I think you should finish the look with some white pearl grips...

Excellent write-up, thank you! I'm eventually going to pick up an 8-shot and still strongly considering the 929.

It's funny because it seems like the ultimate gamer gun, and 9mm is so much cheaper, but I've only ever seen one or two at our monthly ICORE matches (and Regionals). I guess the 627 is just that hard to overcome.

Thanks, all! Like I said, not something I'd do regularly but could be useful the next time I turn a Texas star into a whirling dervish.

...but I'm going to ask it anyway because I couldn't find it in the handbook or on here. Is there a rule against taking a shot in single action when using a DA revolver? Just asking if you could, not if you should, haha.

Hell - I've done it with moonclips. I dumped a clip after only two shots to show clear at the end of a COF and dropped it back onto one of the posts on my belt. Reloaded the belt, started the second COF, and... tried to reload using a clip with two spent casings. If you've never tried it, it don't work so good. I didn't notice it when I was reloading because the height was correct for a loaded moonclip (the other 4 rounds were holding it up). Now I make sure the brass has a bullet in it too, lol.

I'm new to the world of reloading but it's surprising to hear you're running a bullet that heavy. Is the thinking that it will let you lower the fps/charge so you still make PF but with a softer shooting load?

Oh, and replying to the original topic: I use those two guns for L-6 (Model 10-7 or Rhino). The rest of my rig is a Double Alpha belt with Revolver Supply Co moonclip holders (tall, 7/16" post as it fits both), a few Safariland speed loader holders that grip the moonclips pretty well, and the appropriate holster for the gun (modified Super Ghost Ultimate for the 10-7 and that homebrew job for the Rhino). I'm running factory American Eagle .38 for now but plan to start reloading soon.

I use mine on a fairly regular basis in ICORE. The trigger geometry and odd grip angle are its big downfalls but people are blown away by how level it stays during shots. I'm sure a better shooter than me could be pretty competitive with one. Stout K-frames are where it's at. Yes, I shoot a gun that's older than me. Thanks, but the durability question was about the moon clips for rimmed rounds. I've read K-frame clips are very flimsy. Are L-frame .38 special clips any better? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk It's all about the quality of the moonclip you buy. TK Customs K-frame clips are plenty sturdy and very rigid with the right brass (Federal). They're actually the same thickness for K-frames as they are for L-Frames: .025"

Yup, .38 only. Once I figure it all out I might try to switch to .38 Short Colt for easier reloads. I haven't ordered the press yet but I'm about 90% sure it's going to be the Lee Classic Turret and probably a hand-primer for competition loads. I only shoot two matches a month (about 300 rounds total) so it seems like a good balance of price and speed.

Wow, I'm awful at replying. Thanks for the welcome, folks! I'm doing a deep dive into the Reloading forum right now as I'm starting to set up my bench. Hi-Power Jack, do you know what's worse than shooting USPSA with a revolver? Doing it with a 6-shot minor revolver, lol. I'll move up to a 627 eventually but I shoot Limited 6 in ICORE. And I'm not a tycoon of any sort so I can't have all the toys at once.

Hi folks, I'm Matt from Colorado. I've been shooting about two years now and competing for a touch over six months (USPSA, ICORE, and bowling pin matches). I'm terrible, but going slow, learning and having fun. Despite having smaller hands I only really shoot revolvers. I think my brain might be broken? My mains are a S&W 10-7 (full PPC Aristocrat setup, action job, milled for moons) and a Chiappa Rhino 40DS (Stage II trigger, large grips, combat rear sight). I'm also a Kydex hobbyist and I'm hoping to start reloading soon. I came on board here because I'm currently reading "Practical Shooting" and figured there'd be some like-minded folks around. So far, the book has been equal parts fascinating and overwhelming - I think a few re-reads might be in order. Anyhow, hello!