sidnal

I have a 550, 650 and 1050. I use the 550 for large primer, 650 for .223 and the 1050 for compeition pistol (9, 9Open and .40). I'd buy a 650 if you want more volume.

Everything I have purchased from Power Facor Shooting has arrived timely and the order was correct. If there were a problem then I know that Sean would make it right. Buy from PF with confidence.

+1 looks fine to me. Different can be good.

Two thumbs up for the chrono. If people accidently go minor then they'll be glad it isn't a major match and shoot more accurately. If they are purposely gaming (cheating) then...they deserve to shoot minor! No exceptions. Using a surprise chrono would promote fair competition.

Contacts for sure b/c the field of vision is so much better. I had serious issues once when it was extremely windy and dusty. I couldn't see for the last half of the match and it was hard to drive home. For big match I make sure to have a set of glasses handy and a contact case.

+++ MGM ROCKS!

+1.

Thanks for sharing. My first build used a Stag lower and it has been great . It has been modifed a couple of times and is currently set up for my praire dog gun with a beautiful gissele trigger. +1 for the Stag lowers.

I quit 22 years ago and still miss it sometimes, especially when I drink beer with smokers! The quitting part was pretty easy but it took a couple of years for the major urges to pass. After quitting I was ill-focused and a bit depressed too. So much of a smoker's time is spent thinking about the next smoke and aranging life around it. And there is something luxurious about holding a cig and inhaling, makes my salivate a little just thinking about it. The good news is that most of this will pass w/in a few months. You've made it thorogh the hard part so don't be tempted to pick the habit up again.Believe me, the long term benefets from quitting significantly outweigh the short term issues. Hang tough!

I got tired of trying different bullets a few years ago and settled on the MGB CMJ for 9 40 and 45. They chamber well, they are accurate and media doesn't get stuck in the HP after loading. Most important, they help reduce lead exposure, both in the air and on the hands. The only thing you loose is the "cool factor" that JHP have!

Looks like a bad slide. I'm sure SA will fix that...they don't WANT that floating around. Contact them directly.

+1 but it isn't mess-free. Not an issue for me b/c clean brass in the garage. I use a large colander over a 5-gal bucket.

4-5 years ago I lit up a couple of small primers on my 650. Each one scared the crap out of me and left my ears ringing. Both times I was impatient and forced the handle...know better but... Fortunately I've never lit up a large primer. I use the 1050 for most of my loading and have mangled a few small primers that didn't fire. I usually listen to my Ipod books while loading and appreciate the sound insulation I get from wearing ear buds. I use the rubber ones that form-fit better inside the ear. Even if turn off the ipod I keep the buds in to minimize the background noise. One of these days when I do light off another primer I'll be glad to have the buds in...

My Dillon history: Started with a 550 Traded it for a 650 Bought another 550 Bought a 1050 Sold 550 (why would I need it...got a 1050 & 650) Bought a 550 Moral of the story: If you sell your 550 then you will want it back someday.

You are right, Dillon's customer service is unparalleled. I purchaced a 550 at a gun show in Phoenix many years ago. It looked like a bunch of miss-matched & dirty parts more than a press so I dropped it off at Dillon in Scottsdale. 3 weeks later they sent me a fully assembled press (to Houston) with mostly new parts. Two years ago I purchaed another 550. All of the parts were severely corroded and the press was binding. I didn't even assemble it. Left it in the same box that it was shipped to me in and shipped it to Dillon. Guess what...3 weeks later I received a press that was in perfect working order. They replaced nearly everything but the frame. Now I have a 550, 650 & 1050. If there are problems then post to BE and a member or Dillon staff will help. Or pick up the phone an call them. Awesome :surprise:service and warrantee.

I have a similar setup. Use the 1050 for 9-Open, 9-Prod and .40. Also have a separate toolhead for .223 brass prep w/ dillon trimmer attached. The 650 is reserved for loading different .223 loads. My 550 is set up for .45 and .308. There is little overlap between 9 and 40, they require different shell plates, pins, casefeed parts, etc so you might as well order the entire changover kit. I'd order the machine set up for whichever round that you plan to make a bunch of rounds first. Before I make a caliber changeover I load a few thousand of the current load before changing. I'd order from Brian, he'll take care of you.

+1 SEE the sight before the second trigger pull

I have two of the uniquetek and like them. The threads are tighter so the adjustment is finer and there seems to be less "slack" too. That said, the larger knobs are much better than the stock bolt only!

I did that earlier this year, dumped a hopper titegroup into some 7625. Fortunately the combined weight was less than a pound but it had to be tossed it either way. Trash it.

Must have been a double charge. I had 2 case head separations while shooting limited. They were a year apart and both of them happened with Federal nickel that is stamped "FC" (not "FEDERAL"). Both of them "felt wrong" and I felt some heat, but I didn't have any damage to the gun. Both case heads separated completely. I started sorting my brass better ... never reload FC nickel brass!

Shot Limited for several years but it sucks needing magnification for my dominant eye only. Gives me headaches. Switched to Open a couple of years ago and it rocks. I love the rush.

I love my Genetics and I have a set of rydons too. it is unfortunate that they don't sell the lenses w/ readers only or I'd consider them. Many years ago an eye doctor called the lens you describe a "golfing cut". Same idea, only use the lower edges of the lens for scores, but they don't impede normal vision. I'd give those a try if they had them for the Genetics. It's odd that your distance vision is affected, that doesn't seem right. Thanks for the great critique.

Agreed, taking a class from a good teacher will boost your performance. I've had a few classes with Manny Bragg over the years and he's an awesome teacher. His progressive class pushed me from D to B class in 6 months.

Welcome to the forums and you are correct, there is a ton of informaiton here. Hope we see you in Houston for a USPSA match sometime.

I shot D class for a couple of years. Found that I really had to work on accuracy to move up. After making C class I had to work on speed to move up. Hung out in B class for a couple of years ping-ponging between accuracy and speed. I needed to shoot faster AND still keep reasonable accuracy. Worked on the game...footwork, stage execution, watched the master class guys and learned... Moved up to A class this spring after my friends said I was shooting A for months. I didn't think so, but my perception of my ability hadn't caught up with my actual ability. Now I'm A I'm working on accuracty again. That said, transitions are still my weekest point so I need to work on speed. Not to sound indecisive, but after 7 years of work my answer is BOTH accuracy and speed are most important. Never shoot what you can't see. Work on seeing more. Call every shot. Then push for speed. Learn more. Focus harder. This is a never ending cycle for me