sidnal

Hi Tim: My very wiley gunsmith came wiht a solution. First he trashed the POS power extractor. He discovered that the hole for the wilson bullet proof extractor for the .45 is only slightly smaller that the hole the pxt went into. I have 40. He bent the extractor a little left, back right and then back left, ensureing that the hood stood straight outl. Becase of all the extractor problems I bought an STI....now there's a gun! Its run flawless for the first 6k rounds. I spent most of my time shooting the new gun so the para doesn't get too much exercise. It has about 250 rounds through it with the Wilson extractor and it's ejected perfectly so far. One of these days I need to burn 500 rounds through it...just to exercise and old friend!! Thanks Landis

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Update. I took my Para to Eddie Jimenea (a very good local gunsmith) and he replaced the (pos) power extractor with a Wilson series 80 extractor for a .45. This is a standard stiff metal extractor...one piece. He creatively bent the extractor so it curved right and then left, straightening at the end. It grabs the end of the case well. Afterwards he ran 20 rounds through it and it functioned fine. I need to burn a few hundred rounds through it to see if it continues to work. I'll post again later an let you know if this is a permanent fix.

I've been living your PXT nightmare for about a year. I shoot a 1640 ltd w/ PXT. My gun extracted perfectly for about 20000 rounds and then I started getting a failures to extract every 300 rounds. I contacted Para and at that time the were not selling the PXT. Their solution was for me to send them the gun for service. After griping for 30 minutes to 2 people they finally agreed to send me a new spring and a new claw. The new spring and claw fixed the problem for about 3000 rounds, then the same problem. I called again and there was good news...now they sold the power extractor...then then the bad news...they had none in stock...no springs either. I "fixed" the problem by cutting a small piece (<1/16") of hanger and dropping this in the hole under the spring. This puts more tention on the spring. I got about 2000 rounds and then the problem started again...about 1 of 300 failures to extract. Called Para again. They remembered that I had been waiting and were kind enough to send me an entire extractor for free (thank Para!). Within 2000 rounds I started having troubles again. Last weekend during a 600 round practice session I had about 10 failures to extract. I stretched the spring before going out. UUGGHH!!! My original extractor looks just like your original one. The new one looks just like your new one...with the longer rod. I believe that para is having trouble with springs. I observed that the new spring was about 1/16" longer than the new spring. After more failures I noted that the new spring had compressed to the same length as the original compressed spring. Same issue with the new extractor. New spring was longer...failures after compression. My experience was that the original extractor design was better than the new one. It ran for 20k and the new one ran for 2k. I'm about ready to fix my Para with a hand-grenade. Even cheaper, maybe I could drag it behind my car for a couple of weeks. My solution was to have a new STI built...it's off to the chrome shop right now, with some luck I'll have it end of the week. Today I'm taking my gun to a local gunsmith to have him look at the issue. It does seem like a machine shop could maching a sleve so that a standard extractor would fit. The next option would be to junk the slide and have a new upper built. One way or the other I'd like to get it fixed to use as a backup gun. I'll let you know how the visit to the gun doctor goes. Landis

I've had only 2 problems with case-head separation...about 8 months apart. In each case the brass was nickel plated FC (not FEDERAL). A friend of mine (paper killer on this forum) had been preaching to me for months about how I should sort brass by manuf. I didn't pay attention after the first separation, but the second got my attention. In each case there was no injury, just some powder blast (With proper eye protection). Now I only load with Win, RP, Speer, Federal and Speer. All of the PMC, *-*, FC and other crappy brass gets recycled. I have been shooing with a Para through a stock barrel. My new STI will be ready soon, but I don't plan to change my brass. Other friends have shot everything through their .40 with no problems. My experience encourages me to sort brass and be careful wiht .40 major loads. Landis

Thanks for everyone for the responses. I finally worked up & chrono'd two loads for the Tactical XD 9mm. 147grn Precision Delta 3.2grn Titegroup 1.15" OAL WSP 129 pf 124grn MGB 3.8 grn Titegroup 1.15 OAL WSP 130 pf. People can express what they want about "mousefart" loads, but the 147grn is hard to beat. It cycles fast in the XD. I got a deal on a case of the MGB, they shoot fine too. Once I shoot up the 124 I won't shoot any thing but 147mgb. Thanks, Landis

Thanks much for the information. John A would have told me to go search the rule book (I've had the RO lev1 class). I'll dig deeper next time!

I use a CR Speed holster for limited with both my STI and Para. For both guns, when the holster is completely adjusted a small portion of the trigger is visable...between 1/16 and 1/8 of an inch. There is no way you could get your finger in there, but I'm worried that this might be DQable in a big match. I have noticed that most 1911's show some trigger with the CR Speed holster. The alternative is to lower the muzzle platform and then the gun is not as secure, it wiggles. The rule book (P15) says It must cover the trigger guard and hold the gun securely...". The gun is secure, but some trigger still shows. Is this legal? I realize that this could also be posted in the Gear forum too, but I want to understand the rule.

Wow, not exactly a hot topic. Thans for the couple of responses, but let's widen the topic. How about any minor loads for a glock or othe plastic gun? Thanks, Landis

Yeah, I agree that the Titegroup will be dirty, that's why I'm switching back to VVN320 for my limited gun. 19f11s are more fineky. I have about 4lb of TG left and figured that I'd burn it through the XD. Thanks for the info I need to update my post to reflect that the bullets are 147grn Precision Delta.

I need to develop a load for my XD tactical for shooting USPSA production division. 147grn Precision bullets Titegroup WSP 128-130PF I have plenty of these components and just need to work up a load! Assuming TG, WSP, 147grn PD bullets through an XD5", does anyone have powder weights to get 128-130 power factor? Thanks in advance for the info, Landis

Thanks to everyone for your info. I wondered what some of the other prefixes meant. Guess I'll start becomming a lifer, even it will take a couple of years for the prefix to catch up. Landis

I've never known what the different prefixes mean on the USPSA membership numbers. A=General membership L=life. What does TY mean. Are there any other prefixes. What level of membership does each one mean (are they only associated with 3 or 5 year). I'm probably going to become a lifer. It says that you have to pay it off before you get the big L. Guess I'll have to cough up! Thanks for the input, Landis

I just finished Manny's class here in Houston and it was great. He's a very good teacher and a very good shooter. I plan to take 6 months off and then take the class again. The skill sets taught apply to all levels of shooters.

The stages that are out there are just rough drafts that have not yet been through the scc2006 review committee. There will be many changes. Please disregard these for now. Thanks, Landis

Hey Carlos: Maybe I'm more major than I thought if the cz goes major @ 4.7 @6" & 1.170. Right now I have 745 rounds through my Para without cleaning it...wanted to see if it is running okay. About ready to run out of N320. After shooting with it for a year I hope I'm not disappointed with the 9 lbs of TiteGroup under my bench. It is cheaper, but supposedly a little dirtier. We'll have to see. About time to work up a new load, that's always fun(:-). Thanks for the input. Landis

A friend noted that there was more conversation on this topic. After the separation I ditched all of the FC cases that weren't loaded. As luck would have it I had 150 FCs already loaded. Since I'm cheap I burned them on the plate racks and left them on the ground! When I poked around under my loading bench I was suprised to find almost 5000 rounds of clean Winchester nickle brass....much better stuff. Except for knowing the potential of a separation, I had no ill effects. Just noted some heat and a funny recoil during the separation. My eyes did get large and round when I understood what happened! Right now I'm using 5.05 of vvn320 loaded to 1.175. I don't know what the chrono says, but they were 168.5 power factor with 5.1 of VVN320 & loaded to 1.195. At one point I was having feed problems with the Para so I lowered the length to 1.175 and then dropped to 5.05grn. to try to be safer. Have probably shot 2000 rounds with this load, but haven't chrono'd it. It feels "barely major". I'm 200 rounds from running out of n320 and will swith to TiteGroup. Didn't want to mess w/ the chrono until I switched powders...soon Its time to work up a new load. Turned out that the gun problem wasn't related to the oal. I've noticed the primer flow issue. With my para 1640 this has been consistent between 2 firing pins, factory ammo, minor reloads and major. I've settled into what may be a false sense of security, but every case that goes into the gun looks this way. Use WSM primsers. I ordered the EGW undersized die. Plan to take eveyones advice and buy the Lee factory crimp die too. Thanks everyone for the input. Landis (sidnal)

I was using a Para 1640...I'll be tossing aall fo the fc's! The para is a pretty sturdy gun, so there was no damage. Definately a good reason to have good eye protection!

Yesterday I had my first case failure. The casehead separated. There was a bit of a heat blast and then the gun was out of battery (case was still in the chamber, head on the ground). Fortunately there was no damage (gun or me!). I've been ignoring the case type for a long time, this was my first bad experience. I load using a 550B w/ Dillon dies...5.05grn of N320 & 180 grn Delta bullets. Shoot with a Para 1640. Some people recommend the lee dies since they size further down. I'll be tossing all of the nickel cases stamped "F C" (old Federal) from now on and any other "off brands". It's a pain sorting through them, but worth it not to blow a stage. The forum documents which cases are best, but I have a question: Has anyone ever had a case failure that actually blew up a gun? Fortunately the bullet went out the front and the casehead out the back this time! Thanks for the input, Sidnal

Last weekend I found that the gun was slipping around a bit at our local IPSC match. It was 95degrees and had rained the night before...a lovely Texas afternoon. I have a 1640 limited with skateboard tape on the front strap. The plastic grips from Para are worthless and I've been wanting to replace them anyway My preference would be a full skateboard tape-type of grip. Agrip is too fufu...too soft. I've investigated sanding down and grip taping the whole grip. A possibility, but all of the examples I've seen look rigged... Would like to find a good after-market wrap-around grip. Does anyone sell any good wraparound grips for the Para Wide Body? NOT rubber...grooved plastic would be better. Several very good ones are made for the STI frames...can't find much out there for a Para but home remedies. Thanks for the input. Sidnal

Thanks everyone for the input. After sending the Ed Brown mag catch back a friend suggested that I replace the mag release spring with stronger on. Ended up ordering the Gun Craft mag release from Dawson. Have shot 3 local matches (never enough range time) and it had functioned flawlessly. The large button makes for a quick release without having to change grip on the strong hand. Although it works great for standard reloads there is a problem picking the gun off the table. As the gun lays there with a full stick the mag release is almost released. Last match it started falling out after picking it up off the bench. I like it better than the Ed Brown b/c it is larger and slightly lower profile. Also bought the Para Low-Pro button, but haven't tried it yet....next... It may be the best option...1/16 more extended, larger and VERY rough (in a good way), but 1/16 shorter than the Gun Craft and 2/3 the diameter. We'll have to see. FYI...I have 5 mags w/ Para tubes and Dawson extention/magwell. They all work fine with the Gun Craft, but not with the Ed Brown. I believe that this is d/t the shorter tip on the Ed Brown...suprised in the design difference that causes the Para mags to drop. Maybe a stronger spring would have helped. It's interesting to note that other people had exactly the opposite issues...Para mags were fine and STI gave problems...hmmm... Thanks, Sidnal Thanks again for everyone's input.

I bought an Ed Brown ext mag release made for the Para. Magazines keep falling out. The factory release still looks fine. The Ed Brown is about 1/16" shorter on the lip that cotacts the mag...this may be the problem...see attached. Anyone have any luck with other exteded mag releases for the wide body Para? thanks much for any help!!! Sidnal

Tonight I sorted through some of my brass. There seem to be 2 vintages of the Speer cases. 3 of the ones that I've loaded that are severely bent in also seem to be slightly smaller across the back of the case. There definately is alot of variance between manufactures too. Before loading next time I'm going to check all of the cases first and see if some come pre-beveled.. Thanks everyone for the tips! Hopefully this will fix me up. Sidnal

You don't say what caliber you are loading. Be sure you are using the correct primer, and that the shellplate bolt is snug. If you push down on the edge of the shellpalte between stations 2 and three, it should not feel springy. If it does, loosen the set screw on the side of the shaft, tighten the shellplate bolt down until it stops, back up about 1/8 of a turn, and resnug the set screw. If loading a pistol caliber for use in a rifle, be sure youa re still using pistol primers. Large rifle primers are about .008" taller than large pistol primers, and do not interchange. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> I had noticed that the shell plate was a bit tight. Tonight I removed and reinstalled it so it turns without binding. I load mostly .40. Previously did a few hundred .45 too. I started with a new small primer bar/cup/punch ~5000 rounds ago. The uneven seating has always been a factor and until recently (~500 rounds ago) I had not even one malfunction...lately I've had several. Could be the firing pin in my Para too? the primer punch looks new and vertical. TOnight I played with the seating. When pressing in the primer I tend to push it pretty hard...not jammed, but maybe too snug. Can this be a problem...fortunately never lit one up! Seems to be seating pretty consistenly now... Just for fun I tried to seat a couple of primers hard, medium and soft. light-med seats fine. When seating hard I got a crooked one. Could the primer be gettin crushed?

I've beein usin my 550B for about 8 months. Got it used and had Dillon (AWESOME DILLON) go through it. Loaded about 5000 rounds through it so far, mostly successfully. 2 problems: The press has always function well except that my primers don't always end up square...some of them are slanted. This doesn't usually cause a missfire, but it looks uneven and unprofessional. Recently a problem has developed. When I set up my 550B on the bench the handle would come down and barely touch the bench. I decided that this might be causing the above problem, so I did the bubba thing and filed a groove in the bench under the handle to keep it from rubbing. In the next 500 rounds I ended up finding about 10 cases that are bent inward at the bottom of the case, around the primer. In a couple of cases the primer was seated, but the case was bent in so far the round wouldn't fire. Most of the cases were Speer nickle plated. What am I doing wrong? Am I just horsing it now that i have a little more stroke? besides moving very slowly, how can I get consisten primer placement? Thanks everyone...apreciate the info in advance.