clw42

2.5 to 3 months??

I've loaded about 2K of these now. They seem to work fine in my Shadow 2, PDP, and Open guns. However, they are a total pain in the butt to flip on the primer tray, and my RL1100 primer feed system does not like them at all. They are constantly causing stoppages, especially if I try picking up the pace, even a little bit. Just for kicks, I loaded 100 with CCI primers and it was night and day as far as the press goes. No stoppages and I could go as fast as I was able to pull the handle. They've all gone bang for me, but I won't buy them again if I don't have to.

I load major/minor on the 1100. Swap the powder measure, adjust the dies accordingly and roll. Resetting the seat and crimp dies takes about two minutes if you have a round already loaded to your spec. I don't think the effort involved is worth the cost of a new tool head, especially if you're going to load a few thousand or whatever at a time.

You can try I would try either Eric Steiner at Range Panda, or Brack Wilson at Patriot Cases.

I don't think it's a must. If I have a round that fails the hundo, 99.9% of the time it passes the dillon single case gauge and gets tossed in to the practice bin. If it happens to fail the dillon gauge it's because it's cracked and I missed it during processing. No round that's passed either of those gauges has failed to feed in either of my open guns. I use strictly range pick ups, and I don't sort anything by headstamp. If it's a 9mm case, I process it, load it and shoot it. My only requirement for major matches is that the round passes the hundo and slides out when dumping the rounds, if it sticks in the hundo, I toss it in the locals bin. Don't get me wrong, I'd love to roll size, but to me it's money that can be better spent elsewhere...especially with the price of primers still being what it is.

Thanks for this! I did have another replacement tip in my stash of spare parts so I replaced it with another one and loaded 100 without a problem. This was going back to the plastic. We'll see how long it lasts. I'll snag that two pack of brass fittings though anyway, just to tinker with for possible future issues.

Yeah, that's what I figured. Any other solutions to my issue then that anyone thinks might work?

I wasn't sure where to put this, but didn't want to start a new thread. Also, this isn't a new press set up issue, just something I recently ran into with new primers. I bought these primers from Powder Valley: https://www.powdervalleyinc.com/product/servicios-aventuras-small-pistol-primers/ First thing I noticed is that they don't like to flip in the flip tray. It seems the ridge on the cup is almost non existent, not a huge deal but a bit of a pain in the ass. The real problem came when trying to run them through the press. It would feed one or two, then invariably a primer would flip itself vertically into the space on the blue plastic primer feed tip at the end of the primer feed tube. I've got maybe 15K rounds through the press give or take, so I didn't think that part would be worn, but I swapped it for a new one anyway. That didn't fix the problem. I double checked with some CCI's that I have to make sure it wasn't an alignment issue and those fed fine. I decided to try the primer feed tube from my 650 since it has a brass fitting on the bottom and not that plastic tip and it worked like a charm, as it doesn't allow the next primer anywhere near dropping. So my question is, why didn't Dillon use the same brass style in the first place? There must be a reason. I'll use it this way until I get through this lot of primers, then I'll switch back.

Thanks

Is it only the 18 round Canik mags that work in the PDP?

If I had to guess, it's a component issue but I'm not sure. Way too common!! It's been the "down" brightness on all of mine as well. To be fair, I'll change during a match as well. Sometimes a bay is more shaded or the sun is or isn't interfering.

I've sent two R3 Max dots back for buttons and received new ones in return. I'll be sending another back soon for the same reason. Here's a question, since it's a known issue and they seem to send new replacements, wouldn't it be more cost effective to fix the problem in manufacturing?

There must be manufacturing variances, because that hasn't happened to me, and there's no way it will happen. Even with the retention set to it's lowest there's still enough resistance that the draw requires some force to remove the gun from the holster. If I tighten the detents, I actually can't draw the gun at all, it's completely locked.

I just sent mine back for the same reason. Mailed it to them on 13th of September and got a shipment notification from them on the 30th. So a little over two weeks turnaround though they did quote the 6-8 weeks that dapribek mentioned.

I would, but I lost my timer and the case/clip at the mid atlantic sectional this year.

Okay, thanks.

Do we know if this will work with the Tevo Rest Installed? Also curious how the new Ghost Hydra P+ compares.

It's possible, there are a bunch of versions. The one I have fits both the LSI and Cheely grips without modification.

I'm sure some of the crafty guys here could modify something like this: https://www.amazon.com/MGI-Navigator-Control-Electric-Titanium/dp/B08DK8X381?crid=2SPG53LZMD8YE&keywords=mgi%2Bzip%2Bnavigator&qid=1647122504&sprefix=mgi%2Bzip%2Bnavigator,aps,69&sr=8-3&th=1&linkCode=sl1&tag=agolres-20&linkId=fb4deabec7d084ee92fabe601098b140&language=en_US&ref_=as_li_ss_tl

My Max did the same thing. I sent it in for "repair" and got a new one shipped to me a couple of days after the received it. Process is relatively painless as long as you have a back up optic or gun.

That's basically the same set up I have, extra wide frame, middy, Ti comp though I do have a KKM Hybrid barrel. In any case, I'm going to give it a go and see how I like it.

I was thinking of replacing a steel grip with a Cheely E2 Aluminum. Did you go with a steel magwell to help with the balance, because I was actually considering the Cheely IPSC/IDPA magwell with the Aluminum grip but I'm concerned that it'll be a little front heavy even with a Ti comp.

That's the one, thank you! We have to stick to our strengths. Besides we're all better served with more of your guns out in the world!!

I was using electrical tape. Some people use painters tape but I preferred electrical. Range Panda also sells 3D printed covers that occlude the dot. There's someone else making them for the SRO and I believe the Romeo 3 dots now as well. They're both good. Hilarious. Don't you have guns to build?

I will have to look more closely. I did not see that adjustment. To be fair, I didn't really look that hard either, I pretty much slapped it on, aligned it the way that felt most comfortable and went with it. Thank you!!