78Staff

Arrived yesterday, installed two of them, definitely works better than the Hornady Ring/spring or the Rubber Band. It's a nice clean solution (once you get that damn spring/screw started lol)

That one looks nice, larger screen and all, just fab up some kind of mount and good to go.

Yeah, I broke down and ordered 4 today. Honestly they seem kinda spendy for what they are - a shim essentially, a spring, and threaded bolt, but it's a cleaner solution than the rubber band or the Hornady lock ring deal. That's the problem with the 1050 and having multiple toolhead setups, you have to order multiples of everything lol...

Agreed - it drives me crazy having to load short for my M&P 2.0's vs my Dan Wesson 1911's, so have been searching for a better 124/125g range fodder bullet - may switch to some sort of truncated point with a JHP-like profile

lol yeah, the nice thing it's all self contained, don't need to have a spare tablet laying around or chase down a camera, etc. And easy to remove if I actually needed to use it as an actual inspection camera/endoscope for something, just undo the velcro... The current model is about $35 now on Amazon, so cheaper even than when I bought mine a few years ago. https://www.amazon.com/Whistler-WIC-5200-Wireless-Inspection-Camera/dp/B00AKTY9A8/

If you want a ready made setup look at the Whistler Inspection Cameras... I use an older version of this... https://www.amazon.com/Whistler-WIC-5200-Wireless-Inspection-Camera/dp/B00AKTY9A8/ I posted a few pics in various threads, but most recently in this thread. Just attach to the Case Feeder upright with Velco or zip ties etc and loop the cable over...

Here's a few pics of my Whistler Inspection Camera setup, bought it on Amazon a couple years ago. It's a hand held unit, and while the monitor disconnects from the handle and can connect with wifi, I found the video really grainy that way, so I left it connected. I just have it velcro'd to the case feeder upright, then loop the cable around and aim down at the case mouth. It works pretty well, but does kind get in the way if I need to access anything from the left side, ie easy to bump the cable and move the camera end. The 1050 PM is pretty fool proof, so I may remove it. Of course, I've been saying that for a year lol...

Mine? Sure I will take some and post tonight. Warning, it's kinda ghetto :).

Looks good, simple but easy to adjust, and cleaner looking than the MDF/U-Bolt setup. Also followed.

I've been using the HD spring and Hornady lock die for a while know, but during an extended run - it just kinda gave out I guess. Maybe the spring stretched out too much over use. Using the lock ring makes it pretty hard to tweak/replace the spring unless you remove the power measure as there's not enough room to spin it around. Wound up just throwing a rubber band back on it like I used to do, and it worked fine. Next time I break it down I may look at doing something different, but for now I'm just going to roll with the rubber band. it's ugly bu it works :).

I agree, I'm a big Inline Fab Fan, but the RI Starlight is much nicer, throws a ton of light...

Yeah I'm a RF-100 fan, have defended them many times on this and other forums. Sure they take a bit of tweaking to setup correctly, but once set I rarely change them, one setup for LP one for SP. Yes they are expensive, but to me they are worth it. Lot's of detractors due to cost and setup, but I find them indispensable when loading on a 1050. I didn't really want to jump on the bash DAA bandwagon (as I don't use the DAA primer filler), as they did provide (or license from Rick? not sure) probably the best consumer level bullet feeder on the market. It needs a bit of tweaking out of the box as well, but when it's set up and going, it just plain works. I also have the automated brass marker, which is a miss afaiac. Much like some of the comments here, it was/is a product rushed to market too early imo, more of a garage project vs a finished product. :(. Won't get into details here, I've already commented on it in other threads.

Same here, have the QR receiver plate routed into the workbench with mounts for several presses, trimmer, bench vise, etc... plus both height risers. Just an all around solid setup. Older pics, but you get the idea. Adding the risers gives you the most flexibility too.

The above is great vid for teardown/cleaning/re-assembly. Also check out youtuber's OBXSOLWIND and Socal Preps, both have some nice Dillon videos. OBXSOLWIND hasn't posted in a few years, but he has some great Dillon/reloading content.

I've got Rick's, the older/original version - as others have stated, a little adjust-ability is nice to have, if you need to tweak the angle a bit. The older version does not have a groove or slot so you can move it around a bit if needed. It's also a MDF part, and has held up fine. And a separate temp bar I used when setting up/changing calibers over/etc.

It's a Whistler Inspection Camera that I am using as a powder camera, as mentioned above.. The monitor separates from the grip and I have it mounted at eye level, while the grip and flexible scope I have mounted at the bottom of the case feeder upright,with the scope looped and pointing down into the case... However, to be honest with Dillon's KaKlunk safety rod setup it's damn near impossible to double charge a case anymore, and I find I really don't look at it as much as I originally did. I may even remove it to open up some space around the press. There are several options, search for powder camera and you'll see a few options using endoscope, tables, auto backup cams, etc. This was just a nice self-contained unit that I found worked really well. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0087WRRPE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thanks, I will check them out.

Not directed at pjb45 but just a general PSA for those that use the MBF... If you bypass/remove the swager/backup die, and you are also using a MBF you will likely want to go ahead and use the MBF supplied powder funnel over the Dillon funnel. Normally you don't need it (the MBF Funnel - as it's not super friendly and tends to be stick when releasing brass) with the 1050 since the swager/backup die essentially does the same for you already so its mostly redundant with the "normal" 1050 die setup. But if you yank the Dillon backup die for whatever reason, best to go ahead and drop the MBF powder funnel back in if you are auto feeding bullets :). I personally don't swage most pistol brass either - for 45acp I have a small/large primer hole detector/buzzer in place of the swage rod, for 10mm it's not needed as I only use my own Starline 10mm brass. Although for 9mm I do use the SP swage rod, partly to feel primers that didn't get punched out sucessfully, partly just in case I get a Nato case since I use so much mixed brass for 9mm range fodder.

Yeah, that's a guy you don't want to stand near in a thunderstorm for sure!

yeah there's a thread on Dillon's Forum from a few years ago.... Response was likely out of round primers, worn tip or combination of the two... https://www.dillonprecision.com/occasionally-spits-a-primer-out-of-machine_350_12_3683.htm

Call Dan at Inline Fab and talk to him about what you want to do - he loves creating custom stuff along those lines. As stated above would likely be a larger base Quick mount and some support brackets, etc.

For Chrono'ing handgun loads, I am typically sitting at a bench shooting off a bag, so the quad base and light ballhead work fine height-wise. I also have a small tabletop style tripod I can use if I am shooting standing behind a bench as well... Then finally, I have an Arca-Swiss plate I use when I need to put it on a full size tripod with Ballhead. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MT0SKAQ - this is the small tripod. As for the HD ballhead, I would expect it includes one plate, but best to confirm with the seller to be sure. But the light duty swivel head has always worked fine for me - I don't think he offered the HD version when I bought mine. Also the thing about plates/ballheads, you want to standardize - so before buying the HD version I would find out what type of plate system it uses. RC2 and Arca Swiss are the two main types, so if you already have items using one type (cameras, lenses, scopes, etc) then you would want to get the same. Of course if it's a stand alone setup and never going to be used on any other tripod or mount it won't matter really.

You really don't need the MBF funnel on the 1050, assuming you are using the Dillon swage rod and holdback/expander die in station 2 (and have them set correctly). This is direct from the MBF folks. However you can use it, it won't hurt anything - but it is... "stickier" for lack of a better word than the dillon funnel, especially if using wet tumbled brass. This is what you are feeling, it's not letting go of the brass cleanly and that is the jerk you feel. Super Annoying! Polishing it up as mentioned above will help, but i would just pull it and stick with the Dillon funnel on a 1050 tbh. I have 4 MBF caliber kits and don't use any of the funnels on the 1050.

6.6g of Power Pistol or 6.0 of WSF under a coated 180g RNPF is a nice soft shooting "range load" for 10mm... Still hits 1050 or so still a decent load but without the hammer of the 1250 and up loads.