78Staff

I saw the RP one, and do like the integrated stop, but it's 9mm specific. The EC is a standard replacement version (still uses Dillon colored adapter) although they also offer caliber specific ones too. But at $60/65, I only want to buy one, not one for every caliber :).

OK yeah that would make sense, and would work better than current clip setup. I may sacrifice a clip and try this :). thanks

Anyone using and can provide recommendation for or against? I've cracked two of the Dillon polymer covers, and saw the EC version. It's 3x the cost of the Dillon cover, but if it works without issue it may be worth it... https://entirelycrimson.com/products/super-1050-case-feeder-adapter-housing-upgrade

You put the tape on the clip (and thus the side of the toolhead) or you put the tape between the wafer and the bottom of the toolhead?

Also a big fan of the RI light, like others I have them on all of my 1050 toolheads and have one on my 550 setup as well. The rear 1050 mounting clip can be a bit annoying when trying to fine tune case flaring or the MBF die, but I usually just pull that clip off when I need to make adjustments there and slip it back on after. Although, I never thought of using glue or double sided tape, that might work even better. Any recommendations for what brand/style tape to use? Also, I had an issue where one a or two of the led's stopped working after about 2 years - I contact RI and since they only have 1 year warranty he suggested I send them in and would try to repair/replace the diodes for a small fee. Turns out he was able to fix them and sent them back no charge. Great customer service.

Yeah I dry tumble... I do have a FART but tbh it just seemed like more trouble than it was worth for my range/plinking loads. I keep it around in case I want to really bling up some PR brass, but I don't think I've used it in almost 2 years :).

I use the older style PM on my 550 with 2 springs and no FS rod... I'm right on top of the press and looking down the case so will see a bad charge. But, I've kept the newer style with the ka-klunk safey rod setup on my 1050 toolheads as that is what came with the toolhead kits, but have often thought of pulling that ka-klunk contraption and switching over to springs only like my 550 PM's... Only reason I haven't is the location of the PM and also using a MBF, so never see the power. Figured more safety crap more better in that case. But, still I'm tempted...

I have the Dillon set, but have moved my 38spl workflow to the 1050, but want to keep loading 357Mag on the 550 since it is much lower volume... so will likely pick up a set of Lee dies to use on the 550 so I can leave the 1050 toolhead configured...

This is what I do, and even after trying a myriad of rubber buttons, brushes, extended tabs, etc I keep coming back to the zip tie mod

So the Redding Expander does a better job of the stock Dillion Swage/Expander die? That is setup I use with stock Dillon funnel, and I haven't had the "sticking" issues on the 1050. The common wisdom was that on the 1050 the MBF funnel wasn't needed due to the existence of the stock Swage/Expander die if setup correctly, but I'm always open to improvements, as I do get some bullet wobble with the dillon expander.

Oh an my Gallant 9mm order that was supposed to take 4 weeks is going on 2 months now... luckily i just loaded up about 3K when I made that order and held 1K in reserve, so I'm not hurting...yet.

Got a shipping notification for my Blue Bullets order from back in July

Waiting on an order as well, was not in a rush since i was just backfilling some 9mm but it said 4-5 weeks, and that was early Aug. So yeah it's behind by a few weeks... So far I've ordered: 1500 158SWC from Blue Bullets back in July, expected now late Oct. 1K 148BNWC from Grafs (ACME) took about a 2 weeks as they were in stock. 2K 158SWC from SNS Casting, ordered two weeks ago, took about a week. 2K 9mm from Gallant in early Aug, still waiting on these. Not that it matters if I don't find some small primers lol, I'm into my reserves, less than 5K now. ;(.

Just got update on Blue Bullet order from July... was originally 4-5 weeks, then pushed out to 8-10 weeks (Sept 20th shipping) and now pushed out mid/late October :(. Good thing I picked up those 148's from Grafs...

Got my order from Graf's - took about two weeks, maybe a bit less. They were ACME 148's that were in stock. Still waiting on Blue Bullet order from... July I think?

Heard back from Phill at Reloading Innovations, he was able to replace the LED's on the two Starlight wafers I sent back and is shipping them back to me - no charge. Great Service from Reloading Innovations!

I see the same with ACME - bags are always split. They ship in those wooden boxes with bags inside. So at least they are contained, but still it's annoying dealing with split open bags.

Maybe I will give them a try if they come up again... Dillon doesn't recommend using them since they are softer - I would be loading them on a 1050 not sure if it would make a difference.

I like to keep 5K in reserve for times like these, but 5k may not be enough after all. I've already dipped into my SPP reserve and only have 4K left, which will become 2K if my 158g SWC order ever comes in. I've passed on Federal SPP a few times the past few weeks due to horror stories of Dillon and Federal primers . LPP I have 10K and no planned reloading sessions for any 45 or 10 in the near future as I am pretty well stocked for those calibers at the moment, so should be ok for the time being. Well actually I need to load up some 45 AutoRim soon, but I only load about 500K at a time b/c that's all the brass I have for it :). Have a buddy who doesn't reload, and is getting low on 9mm and 45 - he went to fun show this weekend and ammo prices were jacked up of course and had limits on qty. I didn't go but had him check the usual vendors for primers and there were none to be found at the show.

What he's saying, most of us have found that with the 1050 (and assumingly the 1100), with a correctly setup backer/expander die and swage rod setup in station 3, the standard Dillon funnel works fine for typical MBF use, the DA version funnel is not needed. So 1050/1100 users can use the Dillon funnel and not have the sticking/popping issues that the DA dropper adds to the mix, esp with new or wet tumbled brass. The most benefit comes from using it on the 550/650/750 presses. Double Alpha themselves provided this information. Now, sure there may be certain situations where still using the DA funnel might work better - but for most typical loading scenarios on the 1050/1100, the stock setup works fine, as long as station 3 is correctly adjusted. Personally, I load 9/38/10/45 pistol calibers on my 1050 (coated mostly) and don't use the DA funnel for any of them. You won't hurt anything by using a DA funnel, but you really don't need it in most cases on a 1050/1100.

I used a 550 for 38spl for years (550 does all my revolver rounds really), but have been shooting so much of it lately, I am actually switching over to my 1050. But the 550 loads them fine. But since you want 5 stations, you'll have to move to the 650/750 (or the 1050 )

Phil actually answered the next day. The lights have a 2 year warranty. Unfortunately mine are over 2 years old. He did offer that they might be able to be fixed, I could ship them back and he would replace the diodes or whatever for a small fee and return shipping costs - which seems fair since they are almost 3 years old. I'll send my two back, if they can't be fixed I will just order a few more. @HOGRIDER - I did ask about using silicone adhesive vs. the clips, and he said his commercial customers do it that way, just have go be sure to clean the toolhead surface of any oils, etc before applying the silicone - just need a few dots. And it can always be removed later if needed by taking fishing line or similar and pulling between the toolhead and wafer. So I am going try that on one of my toolheads and see how it does... If it works out I will setup all of mine that way.

I read lots of complaints about WSP/WLP, but I run them pretty much exclusively through my two RF-100's and 1050/550 without issue. Rifle may be different however with the thicker cup... Common tips for the RF-100, which you've probably already read/tried... Just snug the clear cover bolts don't crank them down. Same for the collar that goes under the bowl - for WLP mine is snug, for WSP it's actually a hair loose Use mid speed, or low to mid... running it wide open or too slow can cause jams Sit it on a mouse pad or similar put a slight forward lean to it, and if that doesn't help, try the other way. I have one set for LP, one for SP, and so never have to fiddle or adjust them, so that helps I'm sure. Would I buy them again? I would say probably not - I would just get a PAL for the cost savings. But overall they have worked well for me once tuned and adjusted.

Re the Starlights, I agree that rear mount is suspect. I have four Toolheads with them installed, and have actually lost one of the rear mounts,, so have a rubber band holding it up. Also, I checked all four last night, and two of the four have bad LED's now. I've emailed about any warranty, but they are over a year old so I suspect any warranty would likely be a year, at most. They are still usable, but both have 2 led diodes or whatever they are called that are dead. They still throw more light than other commonly available lights even with the dead diodes, but I will likely replace them at some point. I may try the silicone adhesive as well, that seems like a good idea, and just dump the clips - thanks.

Mine arrived today, the cable is not as stiff as my Whistler setup so it's hard to get it in the right position, and when I do it's easy to bump out of the way - but I am going to play around with it. But the core functions all work, linked it to an 8" Samsung Tablet. There is the briefest delay for my setup - not sure if due to older tablet, android version (7.something i think) or other. But it definitely takes up way less room that the Whistler setup. Also made me realize my starlight wafer has two dead led's :(. (not the one below) I know he's replaced one for me already b/c it had a dead one out of the box, but I've had these for about a year now I guess and are likely not under warranty for that long.