billthemarine2862

The TZ 75 is made by Tanfo, imported by F.I.E. the company FIE went out of business. It was before EAA though. I will try and fit it this evening sometime.

Here is what the trigger on my old TZ 75 looks like. Seems to have a better profile than the stock trigger in a S2 or Lim Pro. I will try and fit it later today. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

You can convert it to SAO by either removing the disco and replacing the trigger with a SAO trigger, or by using a BOLO and a SAO trigger. If using a BOLO remember to remove the pre and over travel screws from your trigger. Also, expect to do some fitting of the BOLO if you do not upgrade the hammer and sear. You can also just run it locked and cocked and use the safety and run it limited minor without doing anything else (technically not SAO but, you are still bypassing the DA). Either way it will never be exactly the same as a high end 1911 trigger. By upgrading the hammer to a Titan or Unica you can have an amazing trigger but, there will always be a small amount of over travel and pre-travel. To get the shortest amount of pre-travel possible I feel a BOLO should be used. Upgrading the hammer and changing the springs are a must if you want anything close to a 1911 style trigger action. My SAO tanfo breaks like glass with a 1.75 pound trigger but there is some pre and over travel, especially when compared to a 1911 trigger. (I actually have more pre-travel than necessary but, that is by design) Remember you are using a hinged trigger here, and a very different hammer and sear configuration compared to a 1911. Personally I like to have some pre-travel in my trigger. With a sub 2 pound trigger, under match conditions that little bit of pre travel really helps keeping you from having an early lunch at the local Dairy Queen.

After getting my bachelor's degree I used my leftover GI Bill to go to an online gunsmithing school (in hindsight I wish I would have gotten my P.M.P. but it was much more fun than that would have been) . I had to take several classes on external ballistics as well. I think the ballistics classes were very useful for the classes on optics and sights and for accurizing rifles. The ballsitics classes were taught in conjunction with the series of classes dealing with accurizing rifles and the classes on optics and sights. Hawkmec78 When you say GUNNING Calculations do you mean ballistics calculations?

You running factory wood grips?

So I am interested in building a CO gun. I previously had a CZ Shadow set up for CO and I just flat out prefer Tanfo's over CZ's. The shadow had a dovetail mounted optic and I had no issues finding the dot or anything. I will be building on a budget so milling the slide will be out of the question to start. I plan on using a Henning dovetail mount with a FF3 for the dot. I want to know if it is possible to make weight with a Stock 2, Stock 3, or Lim Pro (IFG or older EAA). The new IFG Stock 1 does not really interest me. Looking for feedback from people that are using any of these platforms that I mentioned with a dovetail mount optic. What parts are you using to make weight? Are you using extended mags and still making weight? Is there a combination of dovetail mount and optic that is lighter than the Henning and FF3? Thanks

Just don't go to the gunsmith who did the trigger job shown in this cz thread post...

At my last match a really high level shooter was running an MBX 141mm with his Lim Pro set up for Carry Optics. It does rattle around a little bit inside the frame but, it was 100% reliable. He said he preferred it over the Hennings and he has never had any issues with it. The way the basepad is designed it is certainly easier to assemble and take apart for cleaning as well. He had no issues making weight (although it was a lim pro so weight should not really be a concern)

I have found that over time blue locktite will give out. Solvents and cleaners will degrade the bond over time. I had that happen at a match where the overtravel screw moved causing me to have several bump fires (this was when I was shooting a CZ TS not a Tanfo). To check overtravel be sure to check regularly that the hammer hooks to do not engage the sear by pulling the trigger and holding it to the rear and rocking the hammer back in forth. I personally installed a BOLO in my SAO gun and removed the pre-travel screw and use red locktite for my over travel screw. You can always remove red locktite by heating the screw with a soldering iron.

Cedar Ridge Range is really close to San Antonio. In addition to Alpha Mike's they hold IDPA and outlaw steel matches. There are matches scheduled there for every Saturday and Sunday.

there is also a monthly multi gun match at Best of the west in Liberty Hill.

I know this is probably a little late for the OP but, last year in the summer there was a Tuesday night Steel Challenge match at ARC. Hopefully they run it again this summer as well. texasipsc.net is a good mailing list for matches from Temple, Austin, San Antonio, and Corpus.

I found there was too much flex in the lava rock grips personally. I know they are pricey but, I second what Memphis said. Hennings are by far the best grips on the market. If you want to go the cheapest route of all, why not sand the wood grips down some and use grip tape?

You should definitely polish the inside of the sear cage where it contacts the sides of the sear as well as the holes for the sear pin and the underside of the sear cage. The PD sear spring will make a huge difference.

That pistol looks great! I run a Tanfo for limited division in USPSA. My setup is very different from yours but, my trigger breaks at 1.75 pounds. I have a factory plunger spring. Polished the living crap out of the the entire plunger assembly and trigger bar. Xtreme medium hammer spring, Unica Hammer, polished sear and sear cage, Patriot Defense trigger return spring, PD sear spring, PD firing pin spring, Patriot defense firing pin, extended firing pin block. I am not at all familiar with the Henning trigger system but, based on the parts you have listed I think a good change would be the sear spring. The factory sear spring adds a lot of weight to the trigger pull compared to the Patriot Defense sear spring. Edit... I just noticed that you said you ordered a PD sear spring. In addition that, polishing everything should get you where you want to be as far as pull weight.

The shadow tac 2 is a cz custom 75 shadow. It is not a de-cocker model. It comes with a short reset disco, extended FP and 13 pound main spring. The "Tactical" portion of the name comes from the fact that it comes with a tritium front sight and fixed rear sights. The internals are fully polished by cz custom. It has an 85C trigger, aluminum grips, and extended mag release. Mine was about 8 pounds DA and 2.5 SA out of the box. The main difference between a shadow tac 2 and a SP-01 Shadow (other than the fact that the tac2 comes already worked over by cz custom) is that is on a standard 75 frame and not a SP-01 frame. In other words, short dust cover and no accessory rail. An 11.5 main spring will get the DA trigger pull to just under 7 pounds. It is a very nice gun. You can tell it has been worked over by CZ Custom when you pull that trigger and check the reset when compared to a stock shadow.

That would be a great write up. Add some links to Memphismechanics videos, and his Tanfo Bible thread and call it "Tanfo Tuning with Mr. Memphis and Dr. John!" similar to the "Professor Atlas" CZ thread.

No, it does not.

My first match was an outlaw steel match. I did so bad that I decided I needed to go practice for 6 more months before I came back to another one. That was about 3 years ago, for the first year or so after that I shot I only attended local outlaw steel matches. Last year I hit every Steel Challenge match at my local club and made amazing progress. I have shot 5 or 6 USPSA matches in the last 4 months and I am starting to see some very solid progress there finally as well. I got into this sport after struggling with getting out of the Marines for medical reasons after 14 years. My dad (who has never shot a match) had suggested shooting in competitions as a way to take my mind off the separation and to meet people who have been through similar situations as me. Very smart man my dad....

I think this is a very interesting topic. I have several friends that love to go to the range when I am not at a match. I have had decent luck getting them to come out to steel challenge matches. The lack of movement and minimal gear requirements really help a lot. I have yet to get a single one of them out to a USPSA match though. For whatever reason the idea of having to possibly shoot weak hand or shoot from a funky position seems to worry them. They don't want to look bad in front of others also. I would tell them that I am still fairly new at USPSA and am in no way a competitor to win, more of a participant I always say, and it is all about having fun and just getting better at shooting. Honestly it really doesn't bother me anymore. I know plenty of people at every USPSA match I attend now and while my friends all know the offer always stands I don't even bother to ask them if they want to come to USPSA matches anymore. Besides, USPSA matches are ready very well attended where I shoot and while it is selfish on my part I like to get home as early as possible for my wife and kids.

I love that hammer on that gun! such a sweet setup whatever way you decide to shoot it.

those look so nice! Now ya just need to offer one with a compensator..

a shadow 2 is a better choice over a sp-01 if you dont mind spending a little extra coin though.

I am a big fan of the sig p226 and the cz/tanfo platforms. My personal opinion is that out of the box a sp-01 will be easier to reach the trigger than a factory 226. The grip circumference will be smaller for the sp-01 as well. Starting from half cock with a sp-01 tactical the DA pull will be lighter as well. While a sp-01 with a safety will have a similar pull weight but, I feel that cz has a better stock DA pull. The reset on a sig with the SRT will be shorter and much more crisp though than any out of the box factory cz. The lower bore axis of the cz will mean your gun will come back on target faster with the sp-01. The overall quality of a sig is superior to a SP-01, again just my opinion here. The other big difference is the way you you hold a sig in relation to the target compared to a CZ. You can do more of a lollipop style hold with the cz unlike the sig with factory sights where you are holding more center mass on the target. It will be easier to improve the trigger of a cz vs a sig p226 as well. Bringing the overall pull weight down even more than with a sig it is definitely not hard to get the cz SA reset close to the sig in terms of distance and far lighter in pull weight. I shoot cz's and Tanfo's at matches but keep a sig bedside if that tells you anything.

I usually go with squad 4. We had a couple of good carry optics shooters. If you ever shoot the 4th Sunday steel match I also pick squad 4 for that one. We were definitely heavier on limited div shooters this last match though.