billthemarine2862

I took a break from USPSA and steel challenge for the last few years. Just had too much going on in my personal life. The limited optics division is honestly the reason I am dusting off the shooting belt and starting to dry fire again. All of my favorite pistols are SAO or striker fire that have magwells that I don't care to remove. I am not going to run out and buy anything new as I would be equally bad with it as what I have now but, I am sure the moment the new division started the arms race by custom manufacturers to capture the market began. FWIW I am shooting a p226 X5 with a Romeo 1 pro when I get to a match next month...I just like it better than my CZ's or Tanfo's for whatever reason.

The all stainless USPSA model 226 is a sweet gun! The extra weight of any stainless 226 really makes a big difference. No matter what sig you go with I should add that the support for them is growing. In addition to Burke (who does some great work in house) you have Gray Guns that sells springs and triggers, and now I have noticed that not only does Armory Craft sell a couple of different types of triggers but they also have hammers and spring kits as well. There is a guy named Ben that we all know of who once won big with a 92...

Very auspicious first post. If you are so concerned with getting access to the classified section that your first ever post asks that question instead of even introducing yourself I wonder about your intentions. Other than that welcome....

I do think Rowdy brings up a good point in the sense that with a properly fitted disco you can have a DA/SA gun where the SA has virtually no pre-travel just the same as using a SAO gun with a pre-travel screw to limit pre-travel. Making it easy to start cocked and locked and run SAO. I know a lot of Tanfo shooters will even fit a BOLO in their SAO guns and use a flat trigger. They obviously never use these guns in DA. The main advantage to this type of setup would be that you don't have to worry about a pre-travel screw walking out at a bad time. What Rowdy suggests is the best of both worlds. Just find a trigger with a profile you like, get a short reset disco and you can run it either way.

Make sure you polish the hammer strut well. Get the holes where the hammer strut and disco fit with the hammer. For the sear, the sides of the sear where it fits in the sear cage, the inside of the sear cage, the holes in the sear and sear cage as well. I bet the hammer strut and mainspring are the culprit in your case though.

It certainly isn't the most popular choice out there for production (most people go with CZ or Tanfo for a DA/SA production gun) because of the lower bore axis, extra weight, ergonomics, and aftermarket support. From a reliability stand point there is nothing wrong with it. I think the biggest things working against the legion are the factory sight configuration (easily fixed by replacing the front sight with one of a different height to change from a combat hold) and the weight of the trigger pull (somewhat fixable by changing the mainspring, sear spring, and polishing). People will always say the bore axis is too high yet, the 320 seems popular enough. I think it is a little too snappy with the aluminum frame when compared to a cz or Tanfo. I shot an all stainless version of the 226 for a while and really liked it. If the LDC were ever to make it on to the production list I would happily shoot it in matches. Although the LDC has a an adjustable rear sight, FO front sight, all stainless frame, heavy barrel, and full length dust cover so it isn't an apples to apples comparison. The grips on the legion are really nice and with some extended base pads for the mags I think it would be suitable as a back up gun or production gun. The X5 all-around has been used with success in IPSC (I believe it has won in the senior division there before) although it is also an all steel gun so it soaks up the recoil better to help offset the high bore axis. I think most of the things people have against using the 226 are easy enough to overcome with enough time behind the trigger. I am by no means a championship level shooter and am just here to have fun and improve so I personally see nothing wrong with shooting what you like. I also say all of this as someone who shoots a Tanfo at matches. I own numerous Sigs though and have had done well by my own standards in steel Challenge with a X5 L1. I also keep a sig 226 at my bed safe and prefer to carry a Sig when I do actually need to carry....

I agree with OPENB. When I pull the trigger back slowly I can hear a click as the hammer passes half cock but, there is no hitch and it keeps going smoothly back before dropping. A better mainspring will make a big difference. I run a factory hammer and Xtreme Medium mainspring in mine and it is smooth.

Is it an IFG or EAA Lim Pro? What hammer are you running? One or 2 piece sear? Have you changed the mainspring? Have you polished anything up to this point? Are you slowly pulling back the trigger or rolling straight through in a quick, consistent manner?

It depends on what division you want to shoot. You can go cocked and locked and shoot in limited division. Or you can go hammer down and shoot production. There are other rules that will apply when shooting production (holster placement/type, magazine capacity) so be sure to check out the rule book. Since there is no major scoring for SC shooting a 9mm in limited is not a disadvantage like in USPSA.

IFG Lim Pro. 8 MOA Burris FF3. Henning Dovetail Mount 7.5 Pounds DA, 2.5 Pounds SA. Medium Xtreme Hammer Spring PD Sear Spring, TRS, FP Spring Xtreme Plunger Assembly (because I was too lazy to polish anything) LOK palmswell bogies. Extended mag release (gold team/limited elite size) Xtreme DA/SA trigger. 44.6 Ounces with the extended mag. Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

S2 uses a different finish than the older CZ's. Yours is a nitride where the older ones are a poly coat or blued I believe.

It is pretty common to see holster wear there. Not really an indication of abuse or over use. I had a shadow that I shot for only a few matches and had some dry fire that had wear up by the muzzle. Although I prefer to think of it as patina or a beauty mark and not wear....

Stock 2 is a great gun. The new IFG Lim Pro is really nice as well. The Stock 2 has a full length dust cover and cone fit barrel. The Lim Pro has a shorter dust cover but, it still balances really well. It is easier to make weight if you decide to go the carry optics route. Trigger needs a little work with a Tanfo but it is easy to get 6 pound DA, 2 pound SA.

I feel your pain! Since I am left eye dominant when I was in the Marines they made me do all my shooting lefty. Was not a big deal with the M4/M16 but, when it came time to pistol qual I stunk it up at first. When I got out, I shot lefty at first. Eventually the lack of support for parts drove me to shoot pistol right handed and learn to adjust my hold to compensate for my eye dominance. I wish I could help ya with the right side safety. Hopefully some of your fellow southpaws will come along soon with the info you need....

Congrats on your purchase! If you follow the MM videos online and do a complete disassembly, when doing the reassembly you just flip the mag catch to the other side... I do not have an answer about the safety though.

I would recommend something like a CTS Long Slide. I know the dust cover is much shorter and all but, it is a similar upper. The grip profile is smaller but, a set of Lok palmswell grips would help with that. A Tanfo large frame will fill your hands up more like a TSO but, the trigger guard is squared and feels different that a TSO.

I believe that screw is staked at the factory. I know my old TS was staked. When going to remove it you need a proper gunsmith screw driver that will fit the slot perfectly. Keep constant downward pressure on the driver while backing out the screw. If the screw does not appear to be staked it will have some sort of thread lock. When removing a screw with thread lock you should use a soldering iron first to heat up the thread lock to make the removal of the screw easier. Swapping the mag release is not hard so long as you remember these principles. When putting the mag screw back in you should either re-stake the screw or apply some loctite.

It is pretty messed up that you send in 2 guns for repair and they replace one slide with a new one and put the first slide on the second gun. I am sure you don't want to wait for even more repairs but, can you send the gun without the new slide back in? I have never had to adjust my windage more than a couple of clicks on any Tanfo that I have ever owned.

My bad. I misread what you had said. Edited to add the rule that mentions OFM slide stops. 21.6 Exchange of minor EXTERNAL components Sights, firing pins, firing pin retainers, pins, extractors, magazine releases, slide stops, thumb safeties, triggers, hammers, bushings, and ejectors MAY be replaced with OFM or aftermarket parts. Exchange of OFM parts between different models of Production approved guns is allowed. The funny thing is that list does not mention the takedown lever specifically. On a CZ/Tanfo the slide stop is the takedown. On a Sig, not so much. They are obviously separate components. I am sure as heck not advocating for the use of any sort of thumb rest here. At $120 for a Nitrofin I will stick with the Pro Grip instead. I prefer to keep my "poor man's open gun" exactly that...poor.

The post from Troy specifically references slide stops and takedown levers both. I think the biggest issue with a Nitrofin slide stop thumbrest is if it will fit in the box. Possibly with a single side safety, with an ambi safety probably not.

When I went from a 2 piece sear to a 1 piece sear with my first ever Tanfo I had to fit the 1 piece sear by removing a small amount of material. The safety was just fine.

Just out of curiosity did EAA say what they did to repair the gun when they had it? I know you mentioned that the changed the FP spring and the FP spring. Did they throat the barrel or do anything else to it?

I know I did more work than Localizer but, not by that much. Have some results to add to the thread... As previously stated in this thread I went with an Xtreme Medium hammer spring (since I already had one). I believe the Medium Xtreme is about 16 pounds. I changed the TRS, sear spring, and based on a comment from Johnbu in this thread the firing pin spring also with the PD springs. My DA is a tad under 8 pounds, my SA is right about 2.5 on my Lim Pro. I shot my first match this weekend with this setup and the gun ran great! All my DA shots were right on point and the SA was really nice. I had no issues with how the gun ran with factory hammer and all the unpolished parts. The reset is definitely a little longer than it was with my limited gun but, on the timer and with all the running I did not notice any difference. Next time I buy parts I will probably pick up a 14 pound PD spring to see what the pull weight goes down to but, the Xtreme Medium is a nice spring and the DA really feels great the way it is. Very happy with the way everything went this weekend. Looking forward to shooting another match next weekend with this setup.

For me personally, every issue I have had with mags has been with the K9's. I had a lot of issues with K9's with the extended Henning basepads. Even if it wasnt rounds getting stuck under the follower I would get some FTF's. When I was shooting limited I ran Henning basepads with mecgar tubes and never had issues. Shooting CO, I have yet to have any issues with Henning basepads and mecgar tubes. The K9's that came with the Lim Pro still have factory basepads on them and I only use them when shooting from a rest. They mostly sit in my range bag just in case something bad ever does happen.

Have you tried swapping out the spring and follower from a known good mag? This will help you determine if the issue is with the mag tube, base pad, or follower.