Absocold

DLC Duplex Stainless with Chameleon controls, screws, hammer and barrel. Gorgeous? Oh yeah. Durable? The best. Slick? Extremely. Cost? Ouch! Worth it? I'd say yes, but YMMV. The worst part for me would be deciding whether to shoot it or frame it for display.

Now look into the magwell and make sure you don't need to trim the front edge of the MSH. An MSH for a 1911 isn't curved there and must be fitted to blend the mag funnel. But if you're using a 2011 MSH then it should be fine.

Case wall at .4732 and the crimped area at .4730 is specified. However, unless you're doing 50+ yard bullseye competitions it's not super critical and calipers are not required. As long as the round chambers easily and you have the tiniest bit of crimp, all good. Under crimping will cause feeding issues and may cause bullet setback during feeding. Over crimping will cause poor accuracy and increase chamber pressure. Your gun will tell you what it likes.

Second the Alliant E3 suggestion. I have no idea why that powder is so soft. It's made from feathers and clouds I think. When you're making mouse fart loads, it's safer to use a fluffy powder that fills up the case more and a lighter bullet than the other way around. Prevents detonations and possible double (or triple) charges. High order detonations from low powder volume aren't so much of an issue with the short 9mm case, it's something that happens with longer rounds like 38SPL and such. Even then it's still pretty rare. However you do get uneven burn rates when the powder volume vs case capacity is too low, no matter your caliber. I've made 280 fps loads for 38/357 and 3,000 fps loads for 45ACP. Experimenting is fun but mind your safety issues way harder than usual when you step outside the norm.

Hard chrome is cheap, durable, effective and is easily touched up if necessary. It's also pretty (OOOOH, SHINY!). PVD is good but DLC is better and about the same cost. DLC is more expensive than chrome, harder to find a good place to get it done, is much slicker, is more durable and more effective but isn't as shiny. I've had all three. The DLC was nicer and actually drew more eyeballs than the chrome but if you do manage to scratch DLC (or PVD) somehow, it won't just buff out like chrome will. For the color you seem to be leaning towards (chrome, titanium) I would suggest DLC Duplex Stainless for a maximum effort build (coat the comp too) or hard chrome for cheap and easy.

Too expensive, too complicated, more moving parts that can break, modification required, too easy to lose the tiny springs when field stripping for cleaning, harder to re-install.... I never saw the point. Do they work? Yep. Do they work better or last longer than a properly fitted and tuned stock extractor? Not that I've seen. I'm happy to install one if a customer requests it, but I don't push for them either. GI surplus extractor $3, AFTEC extractor $85. How about no.

There are numerous styles of grip safety depending on whether it came from Para, Llama, Caspian, etc. Oddballs abound, especially on older stuff. Some can be made to fit but often won't be pretty. There are some MSH's out there that are a bit shorter than the norm as well and there's no easy fix for that issue if you don't have the matching grip safety, best to chuck it if that's your problem. Move BOTH the grip safety and MSH over to a 1911 and see if they work together there. If so, then there's likely a problem with a bad grip module to frame fitment issue causing a gap which results in the distance between the MSH pin hole (on the grip) and the thumb safety pin hole that locates the grip safety (on the frame) being too far apart.

Valentine's Day post.

Had a 1050 but the guy that bought my last house was also a shooter and threw in extra cash for me to leave it and the bench. I loaded everything I could before the move so was flush with ammo for a good long while. All I have at the moment is a Lee Reloader I use for sizing cast bullets and a Lee Loadmaster for de-priming filthy brass and making quick handfuls of ammo. The Loadmaster is a giant steaming pile but it works (with *constant* fiddling) and caliber changes are stupidly fast, easy and cheap. I know, I know. Going from a 1050 down to a 750 would make me question my life choices and sanity but I was hoping I could get away with it. Guess not. RL1100 here I come. PS. WTF THEY'RE ON 4-6 WEEK BACKORDER?! *&%$ @&#*!!!!

Initial cost difference of the machines isn't a huge amount but the cost of three or four additional quick change kits really adds up on a 1100, now the difference isn't $900, it's darned near two grand. But if the 750 isn't the best thing to automate due to fiddling, finicky-ness and breakage then I guess I'll have to suck it up and save myself the headache of buying, disliking and then selling the 750. Buy once, cry once I suppose. Then cry some more every time I need another caliber, and curse every time I need to change over. Well, at least I won't have to two-pass the rifle brass. Anybody have an in at a place selling Dillon gear? Or some good dirt I can use? Hey Dillon! How about a reverse sponsorship? When anyone asks how I got so bad at shooting, I won't mention that I use your excellent equipment.

Evolution + bulletfeeder $3500 RL1100 + bulletfeeder $2400 750 + casefeeder + bulletfeeder $1500 Whichever one I buy, it will shortly get a Mark7 autodrive so add another two grand. Yeah the two big boys have swaging, more stations and make ammo with less runout, but is it really worth all the extra dosh? Not to mention the much higher cost of caliber conversions. I'm not making so much ammo that I HAVE to automate, but I'm getting older and decades of pulling the handle is quite enough. And I don't HAVE to have swaging, it'd be nice, sure, but wow that extra cost. Don't get me wrong, I can afford the better machines, but the extra up front cost and higher conversion costs just seem a bit much for what I'm doing. An extra $200+ per conversion? Ouch. Right now my plan is to get the 750 with bullet and case feeders, try it out and see if it's a champ, then automate. If it's not a champ, dump it and get the 1100. The only real issue I see with the 750 is not being able to powder check with a bulletfeeder. But I may be able to use a different powder measure to get the room needed to do so so we'll see. If it helps, I'm currently loading 9 Major, 45acp large primer, 223 and 300 blk. Yeah, I'll have to two-pass the rifle ammo but with automation it's no biggie. I've been fighting with myself for months over this and waiting for the user reports on the new machines to settle out. Right now I pretty much need someone to give me a good reason not to cheap out and just get the 750. Will it hold up to automation? Will it need constant fiddling? Or maybe I'm missing some other big issue besides simply wanting the coolest machine.

Anyone?

If you can't tell the difference from shooting or from video, use the lowest charge that meets specs and runs reliably. Or as Jack said, let your timer be the judge. Pro tip: If you're doing load workups in the powder amounts you listed, you really should be firing them over a chrono and checking closely for high pressure signs. You didn't list your bullet weight or seating depth, but 8.3 grains of HS6 in 9mm, even under a 115 grain bullet, is getting close to big boy territory.

Betting my equipment, fingers and eyeballs on the quality control of any used brass is a hard no from me. Everything goes through a de-primer and a sizer on my merry go round.

Glocks are great once you replace every single piece of the gun with something better. Jokes aside, grip angle and lack of weight are two of the biggest enemies to a flat Glock. Help solve both with an aftermarket frame. Companies that make actual steel or alloy frames for Glocks come and go, none are currently in business that I know of. However Polymer80 now makes complete serialized frames with the 1911 grip angle (or should I say the "correct" grip angle?) and ZEV just came out with a 2011-ish modular frame with a near 1911 angle and a little more weight. After that, a giant comp with lots of baffles and weight, then barrel porting if necessary. Cramming on weight, especially at the front or at the magwell, is a big help. I think trying to work the comp harder than you already are will just result in a more violent recoil impulse (it might look flatter from the side but to the shooter it's a jumbled mess). And you'll break stuff. But I said all that to say this: Unless you just like to tinker, have a mad desire to be different or are a masochist, get a 2011. By the time you buy a Glock and Gucci that sucker to the moon and back then spend a ton of time, effort and money on load development and parts swapping, you could probably buy a decent used 2011 or dang near it. And an Open Glock will be difficult to sell for a reasonable price whereas a decent used 2011 commands good prices.

There is zero reason to build/buy a 300blk if you're not going to suppress it. There are better calibers for subs and much better calibers for supersonics. 300blk without a can on it is sub-par at everything and gets boring quickly because no matter what you try to do with it, there is a much better way to do it with a different caliber. The magic of 300blk is being able to go from close range movie quiet to medium range rock and roll with just a mag change - and you can't do that without the can. My advice is to take the money you'd spend on this build + gear + ammo and buy yourself a versatile suppressor that can do it all so you only need one. The SilencerCo Hybrid is a good example. Spend the money, wait the wait, THEN think about getting a caliber that was purpose built to be suppressed. Besides, suppressors are stupidly fun on any gun.

What really sold me on this one was the pistol in his waistband with more taped mags.

Bullseye powder at low pressure is dirty as hell. Original CMP/EIC 230gr ball specs called for 5 grains of Bullseye at 850fps. Match ball is typically loaded at 800-820fps for better accuracy. But even that little bit of pressure reduction gives more fouling. Below that and it gets downright filthy. Sure, it's accurate powder. But you can do just as well if not better with more modern stuff. 4.9 - 5.8 WW-231 5.7 AA #2 8.0 AA #5 5.9 Unique 8.2 HS-6 4.7 TiteGroup 4.6 Bullseye 3.7-4.5 WST 6.4 WSF 8.0 Silhouette 9.9 Bluedot 3.9-4.9? E3 All of these are winners. But if you want the softest possible load, go with the last one. E3 is softer than anything.

If you're not automating, this is the main reason to get a 1050. I've used almost every press there is and Every. Single. One. of them has either cumbersome or troublesome priming issues either from poor design or no pocket swaging. The 1050 suffers from neither of these problems.

Used to use W231 (hate the way WST smells), now I use E3. Less smoke, a bit cleaner and soooooft.

Second (fourth?) using a magnet during brass sorting. If you get a really strong one, keep it away from any electronics. I prefer this as it's not too strong, does double duty as a pin separator, hasn't rusted and stray filings are easy to remove: https://www.amazon.com/Frankford-Arsenal-Transfer-Stainless-Reloading/dp/B00HTN659G

Endless libraries worth of material has been written about the arcane science of ballistics in the quest for accuracy. Long (so very, very long) story short, use the load that works best for your gun. Slightly longer version, for your particular question, the most likely answer is the pressure over time curves are different.

Spray One Shot into the empty case feeder and right down the case drop tube before each loading. A little more One Shot on the inside of my wrists and a dab behind each ear.

Technically, yes. But you'd need some very sensitive equipment to measure it. If you're not getting any flame-cutting on the blast shield then there's not enough force to really matter.