Absocold

Another vote for the TX22. Most Taurus' are crap but these are good. 16 shot mags are super nice too. Had the Walther 1911-22, mine was a lemon and even as a gunsmith I couldn't get it to be reliable enough to suit me. Have a Ruger 22/45 as well, it's very good but skinny little 10 shot magazines are a drag.

Get mean with it. Hit it as hard as you think you can without damaging anything. Sometimes it's better to have the guy with the biggest rear end give it all the ugga dugga's while another guy does the hammering. At the end of the day, smacking the snot out of it is better than the alternatives. Easy-Out. Left-handed drill bit. Welding a bolt to the screw head. Drilling out the entire cursed mess and re-tapping the now larger hole. Leaving the silly thing alone if it wants to be there so badly. Etc.

Penetrating oil overnight (Liquid Wrench is the best one that can be easily sourced), face it so gravity helps. Tap hard on the end of the screwdriver with something (I prefer a leather mallet) while applying steady turning pressure.

Frames are rarely hardened, they usually measure out in the mid to high 20's. Slides don't need to be hardened either, early 1911's were only hardened at the slide stop and the front section to just behind where the back of the spring plug tube is. More modern 1911's they usually harden the whole slide to allow for an even finish. If your frame is cast, I suspect you measured over a void and got an erroneous low reading. If it measures 12 all over, sheesh.

Buy a set of outside pins. They're very cheap and will let you see what's going on with your sear to hammer interface. If it looks good then you need some more sear leaf tension or you have a disconnector issue.

Pfft, y'all are making it hard. Just buy a box of Herter's Total Nylon and shoot the lead out. One or two shots at most is all it takes. But first I would make sure you have a leading problem and then I would investigate methods to eliminate that problem. Leading is not normal. Usually it's your ammo. If it's not, most times a quick lapping job will clear it up.

Copper toothbrush with your solvent of choice to dislodge the nastiness then 150+psi air hose to blast it all away and dry everything. Apply protectant of your choice with a regular toothbrush. Any stiffer sort of brush seems to affect the finish. If you use steel and get too Tony Danza with it (Who's The Boss?), you'll eventually have ugly grips. If it's not a customer's gun but your gun, and you're a lazy little b* like I am, just throw it in the dishwasher. Turn off the drying cycle. Dry it with the air hose then spray with whatever lube smells good.

Flat may last longer but costs more. When rounds are so cheap you could get a new one every month, I don't see the point. And I have seen some flat ones start chewing on the dust cover when they bow due to wear, poor heat treating or improper fitment. Flats are fine for captured systems with proper spring/guide rod/spring channel sizing but can cause problems otherwise. Your mileage may vary.

Any chemical rust remover may harm the remaining finish (OP didn't say what it was), the steel wool can be used on even show blueing as long as you don't bear down too hard.

Remove with OOOO (four o) steel wool and prevent future rust by either refinishing or keeping it oiled well and often.

They aren't going to go off from a small home use vibratory tumbler but I'd be worried about debris in the primer causing ignition issues. I would load them then tumble. If all you have is a rotary tumbler I would just deprime and start over.

Poor bullet design. Bullet damaged. Bullet damaged during firing (many causes). Improper bullet ogive. Bullet too small or too big for barrel. Bullet losing jacket (various causes). Wrong bullet weight/shape/design/velocity for rifling twist rate. Worn rifling. Damaged or off center crown. Bullet striking muzzle device. Too much bullet crimp. Barrel fouled. There's more but I got bored.

Way too hot in Florida for big iron so it's a Ruger LCP in my shorts front pocket. If something shady is going on I find it's super nice to be able to just nonchalantly put my hands in my pockets. Looks laid back and unconcerned but isn't.

Keep an eye on it for corrosion. Aluminum touching stainless + chlorides (sweat) = uh oh. If the slide is milled to accept the racker and neither is anodized or painted to prevent metal to metal contact then you may have issues.

^This. If no, try some factory rounds and see if they tumble. When all else fails, I use a lathe to turn down a piece of balsa wood so it almost fits down the bore. Dust it with graphite powder (liquid lube will make it swell up) and tap tap tap from the breech end until it starts coming out through the comp, watch for shaving.

Rifling looks ok from what I can see but it looks to be coppered up with some leading. Herter's makes ammo with nylon bullets, fling half a dozen through to clean it out. If you can't lay your hands on any then get a de-coppering solvent and a stiff brush and give it the Tony Danza (WHO'S THE BOSS?) then if it continues to have leading issues I'd slug it to make sure you're using the correct bullet diameter and, if you are, I'd lap the barrel to remove whatever is dragging at the bullets.

For the price, hey, look at me, FOR THE PRICE, the Loadmaster is a good press. For small runs it's outstanding since a full caliber changeover, including primer size change, takes about two minutes and the parts for each conversion cost almost nothing. Shockingly it makes pretty decent ammo. But then, a day will come that you either get sick of fiddling with it or you will witness a 750/1050 just flat work and work and work with no fiddling and you'll realize it's worth missing some meals so you can afford quality gear. I have two of them but they are my least favorite press to use. One is on permanent de-priming duty and the other is for loading small batches. I wish I could justify replacing them with better stuff and give them to someone who already dislikes me so I don't lose a friend. Someone once gave me a Lock n Load Ammo Plant. We no longer speak.

Any good CLP applied to a decently cleaned gun will continue to clean the guns microscopic pores while it's sitting in the safe better than any ultrasonic can dream of. Try it. Scrub your gun like a dirty dirty child until it's pristine enough to attend sunday school, apply CLP, wait a week, run a clean white cloth over it and be amazed at the dirt that wipes off. I chuck a lot of my stripped guns in the dishwasher. Leave the heated drying cycle off. Works like magic. Would not recommend for finely blued pieces but for stainless/chrome/plastic/DVC/Etc. it's easy peasy lemon squeezy. Having to rough clean then ultrasonic then clean the solution off (plus worries of finish damage), not to mention the extra cost for the ultrasonic cleaner and solution sounds like difficult difficult lemon difficult.

Even very expensive factory guns can have problems. Buy the cheapest one that you like the looks of then pay a pro to upgrade and massage it. You'll spend as much or less than a fancy mass produced item and get much better results.

Shotguns I use bear fat. Pistols I use goose poo. AR15's get the finest and most expensive space-age lubricant that science can produce, it even works sometimes. AK's that start to run a little slower than normal I just swish around in a mud puddle.

Krylon Engine Paint for a gun you don't care about much. It's cheap. Virtually immune to oil, grease and high temps. Cheap too. Comes in lots of pretty colors. Also it's cheap. Easy to re-apply as necessary. And it's cheap. Duracoat for a gun you sorta like. Harder and will wear better but is more trouble to apply correctly and touch up. Parkerizing for a gun you like. Cheap and tougher than any spray coating. If you love the gun then there are a dozen other finishes with price tags to match.