Absocold

I posted a review here on the DVC when the demo models were first shown at nationals. I said it was overpriced crap hyped as the new hotness. Even if you forget all the other things that were bad about it, the trigger was garbage. A garbage trigger on a several thousand dollar competition gun is inexcusable. I was ignored because it was the new hotness. Later I lamented that the Trubor was going away, probably to get more people to buy their overpriced crap DVC. I think they failed big time with that decision too. I'm betting a lot of the entry-level business either went to CK, SPS or the used market. Oh well. I hope they learn something and get back to what worked. I love my Grandmaster.

I dealt with many dropped 1911's during my time as a military rangemaster, none ever "just went off". CAN it happen? Sure. It happened in testing under very narrow circumstances. Figure the odds. I've never heard of a 1911 drop firing happening in the field where the hammer didn't fall. You might have a better chance of getting struck by lightning while being bitten by a cobra than dropping your 1911 and having it go bang because of a lack of a firing pin block. Can I get a 1911 trigger down to two pounds with Series 80 guts in it? Sure. But I charge almost double to do it because it's unnecessary work. I always advise to ditch that garbage, especially in carry guns as it means fewer possible failure points.

I'm a 1911 fanboy but I'm here to tell you that anyone who thinks a 1911 is as reliable as a Glock is smoking illegal substances. If I had to rely on Glock repairs or tuning in my shop, I'd starve. They're ugly, the trigger will never get anywhere near as good as even a crappy 1911 and the grip angle is just... wrong. But the stupid things just work and keep right on working.

The 1911 firing pin spring has a very easy job and, unless you're a dry-firing fiend or firing lots of hot ammo, you'll likely wear out your gun before the spring has an issue. And I've seen exactly one broken fp spring in way too many years of working on 1911's. Shorter barreled guns have more issues because of higher slide velocity and should replace the fp spring every so often. As to the mainspring, those really aren't an issue either unless you're running a lighter than stock spring to get a super light trigger. In that case, any weakening could result in problems and should be replaced every so often - the lighter your mainspring, the more often you should replace. Even with a stupidly light spring, you're talking in the 10k+ round range. A stock spring will last 40k+ easily with standard ammo. Side note: if you drop mainspring weight, you may need to go up in recoil spring weight as the mainspring helps control slide velocity. Recoil springs however are definitely a wear item and should be replaced on schedule. What schedule you ask? Well, it depends. There are too many variables to give a specific number or even number range. It depends on many, many things (quality, length, progressive or not, material, shape, slide length and weight, ammo power factor, etc.) but the two biggest things are round count and how finicky your gun is. You can either replace on a round count schedule, replace when the gun acts up, buy a recoil spring tester or measure the length of the spring the first time you clean your gun after firing, then replace when the spring measures noticeably shorter.

PM replied.

Too purdy NOT to shoot. I'll take 'em if the hurricane doesn't get me.

If my pistol is belt fed, can I ignore all the magazine capacity restrictions?

Never saw the point of an Aftec. Always seemed like a Rube Goldburg device, solving a problem with a fancy part instead of just tuning the original that has less things that can go wrong with it down the line. The biggest problem I've seen from Aftec's is that no one wants to pull the fiddly thing out for cleaning and risk losing tiny parts. Extractor tunnel gets full of gunk and "Voila!", failures to extract.

DLC is as hard or up to more than twice as hard as nitrocarb (depending on material used for coating) and also has a much, much lower coefficient of friction. Also DLC has similar corrosion resistance to nitrocarb and superior resistance when applied on top of nitrocarb. If you can find a peer-reviewed technical paper anywhere that says otherwise to these assertions, I'd be very interested to read it. Depending on the materials and process used, a very broad interpretation of all the testing data I've seen is that coating durability/hardness go basically like this: Cerakote > Parkerizing > Hard Chrome > Nitrocarb > PVD > DLC This ignores surface treatments such as bluing and case hardening but we know exactly how durable those are from long experience. Better than nothing but not better than most coatings. For the money, a full park job polished out a bit with cerakote over it on the externals is enough for most people. Cheap, effective and easily repaired. But if you want harder and slicker, move up the list as your budget allows. PS. Side note, I wonder why no one is using boriding in the gun market besides a few AR-15 bolt makers. Looks to be a better choice than hard chrome.

Hey, at least they're not asking about spin drift, magnetic drift or coriolis forces lol. Still, you'd think a gunsmithing college would be more concerned with interior ballistics and exterior ballistics would be an afterthought. What happens after the bullet leaves the gun is really just double checking your work

Nitrocarb is very tough. But it will wear if you're rough on gear or do a whole lot of draws from a kydex holster. PVD/CVD is a process not a type, whichever coating you choose will determine your results and color but many are tougher (and slicker) than nitrocarb. DLC is even tougher and slicker and comes in lots of pretty colors (duplex stainless looks amazing without being gaudy). Hard Chrome is also a good choice since unless you gouge the crap out of it you can just polish it out or re-beadblast for much less than a new coating. If you are very rough on your stuff, learn to cerakote and just repaint as needed.

1. Easy-Out 2. Tiny cutoff wheel to make a round-bottomed slot, round-tipped screwdriver. 3. Drill that mother completely out, re-tap hole for larger screws. I'd push the customer to go for #3 since more than one was broken. If they broke once they'll probably just break again. Time to upgrade.

Clays burns too slow to load it light, you get unburnt powder. Found this out when loading mouse fart 38SPL loads. Wasn't dirty, just powder everywhere. The load was pretty hilarious though, you could easily see the bullet in flight.

If all the previous tips don't help, remove the slide and check the magazine height when latched in the gun. If the mags and ammo work fine in one gun but not its twin gun and there isn't an extractor issue, maybe the mag catch has a problem. Next, check the bolt face and firing pin hole for burrs - lightly polishing this area never hurts. Check the barrel throat and top of the chamber for problems. Check the area where the barrel chamber impacts the frame for anything that might prevent the barrel from fully tilting down. Check the guide rod for damage (especially the fat end) and verify the correct recoil spring is installed.

You guys are necro-posting in a three and a half year old thread. The girl is almost done with college by now lol. Prolly time to close it up.

I'm confuzzled. The comp cracked but instead of a new barrel/comp they're replacing the entire slide assembly, frame and controls as well? Okaaaaay....

I could give two sh*ts about whether or not you use motor oil as long as you're informed of the hazards. Accusing me of spreading misinformation is silly when the MSDS says right on it "avoid contact with spilled material", if you touch it to "wash hands with soap and water", if you get any in you "the individual should be evaluated immediately by a physician as a surgical emergency" and not to use the stuff for anything other than the intended purpose. Then I pass that info along to my friends here and let them decide whether these things sound rosy and fun but get attacked for it. We deal with enough health hazards in this sport and I don't know about you but I'd prefer to limit my potential exposures. But if you think motor oil is great, knock yourself out, no one's crying about it and I won't attack you for it.

Put the tinfoil hat down and back away slowly. I've asked more than a few BATF agents about this (and other things that come up) over the last three decades. All said basically the same thing. If you're not hooting and hollering and bragging up your awesome muti-shot per trigger pull gun, no one cares; malfunctioning gun does not equal machinegun. One said it best: "If that was an issue then all rimfire autoloaders would be banned because of the occasional slamfire." You'd be shocked at just how crazy you have to get to have them after you. Yeah, we've all heard stories but those are crazy rare considering there's this whole branch of government dedicated to policing firearms and a nation full of firearms owners. I've called them more than a few times on questionable guns that came into my possession, only once did they care enough to send someone out. It was a true Saturday Night Special with no manufacturer and no serial number. He found a tiny proof stamp and said that was good enough to the letter of the law as an "identifying mark" for a gun of unknown age. As to all the obviously illegal guns that I absolutely never saw, the clueless owners were educated on exactly what sort of trouble they could bring. All were smart enough not to even risk the walk back to the car with them and they paid a very small fee to someone (absolutely not me) to de-mill them. I may or may not have a 20mm ammo can nearly full of torched up scrap metal, but at least it's not illegal metal.

Necroposting in an old thread but others may use the search function and find this so... I've had a few of these come through for work. One was picky about magazines and needed some tuning, another was only in for a trigger job and accurizing. Some areas are better finished than you'd expect, other areas less so. Triggers are stupidly heavy, 7.5-8.5 pounds. Once you throw away the lawyer-inspired series 80 crap and polish the internals a bit, the trigger isn't bad. For the price, they're not terrible. But for a tiny bit more money you can get more gun. Think Rock Island Armory's cheaper options. Or just bite the bullet and pay what most would consider to actually be the cheap end of 1911's that are worth buying and spend $700-850. The only reason to buy anything cheaper is because you either simply have no more money or you plan on customizing the crap out of it and half the parts are going in the garbage anyway. Or be smart and cruise your local shops and the forums here for a gently used Range Officer, SR1911 or the like. Those are currently in the $700-850 range when new and you'll be happier with a used one of those than a new Tisas.

Grats me on 500th post. .

Yep, that's them.