theWacoKid

The issue here is the barrel is not a static pressure vessel so while the pressure acts in all directions, it does not stress all components equally. The fore/aft force vector stressing the barrel in tension through the lock up is not equal to the pressure times the area, it is only equal to the resistance of the bullet going down the barrel (which is basically the same for 9mm vs 38 Super). The rest of the imbalance of pressure acting at the base of the case accelerates the slide/barrel/gun rearward.

I've been here with 2011's. While just playing with ejectors and extractors seems like the way to go, at some point you have to accept that your base relationships of breech face, ejector, and extractor are all jacked up. Either move the ejector in or the breech face out while maintaining extractor tension.

When it comes to scoring there is no judgement and everything is covered in the rules. Scoring is either correct, incorrect, or undetermined. There is nothing else. If it's incorrect it should be rectified and if it's undetermined it is a reshoot. There is zero judgement in scoring.

I second most of this. The gap under the first round in the mag is not a deal breaker. It's very hard to get rid of it 100% with 9mm because of the tapered case. The good news is this should not cause the gun not to run. For clean feeding all the geometry needs to be right and everything needs to be as slick and smooth as possible. Definitely make sure the edge of the breech face is not sharp. I slightly round mine and polish it smooth. Same goes for the extractor, be sure there are no burrs and it is radiused and smooth. Too much extractor tension can be hell on feeding rounds as well. The rest of the geometry revolves around the location of the mag in the gun as well as the feed lips. Your feeds lips are close, I do most at .350" front and .005"-.010" less in the rear with good luck. I sand and polish my feed lips more often than I reset their dimensions. You should try another mag catch or modify yours and try the mags sitting both lower and higher depending on where you are. This can be a big deal with some guns considering the stacking of tolerances between frame, grip, mag catches, and magazines. Some combination of the above factors should fix you.

I put 5-40 holes in my guns so if this happens I can punch it out to 6-40. Since you're already at 6-40 I'd helicoil it. It's a little expensive to get all the tools, but it's a legit repair that works well. I also think punching it out to 8-36 is a workable option. The issue with helicoil will be locking the screw as you don't want to use loctite. However, you can get a distorted helicoil in 6-40 to be your locking mechanism. If you have material to punch to 8-36 you can loctite like usual.

Move all the junk around until it works. The size and location of all the stuff on my gun is odd but works for me.

Nah, 8.78392736 oz. Nothing else works.

I tear down the slide for cleaning about every 500. Bottom end comes apart every 1k or so. Grip comes off the frame before reaching 5k. Touch up my trigger every 5k or so. I never replace springs other than an occasional Aftec. Barrels should make it to 75k minimum and much more typically. Slides go until they crack. Basically, I clean my gun all the time, constantly inspect hard parts, constantly tweak fits, and never replace springs.

Best idea so far is fatigue from multiple expansion, bells, and crimps on the same piece of brass. I think it happens a lot and people don't catch it. First time was years ago when I happened to see one fall out of my gun and I picked it up off the ground. Since then I've caught many more because I look for them. It normally wedges the gun up like a "fat" round. Recovering the ring is common, knowing which piece brass it came from isn't. I tend to get more with thinner wall brass like Federal.

When I get the rings it stops the gun from getting into battery. Normally locks up pretty tight. My gun won't fire from this condition. Without a doubt it comes off the brass. Make a dummy round, slip the ring over the bullet, see how it goes into battery.

Oh, the ring is interesting. I've dealt with them. It is possible that ring held the gun slightly out of battery. What brand of brass?

Stepped cases alone don't fail like this. However, reloading errors with fast burning powders like Titegroup do. Textbook. Since this wasn't completely catastrophic I would put the possibilities as over charge, out of battery firing, or brass that was already damaged and thin or creased at the base.

That would please me. Lez go!

But I've already shot over 20k of them. Aaand I figured out the acronym.. Aaand I definitely prefer them.

If it can't be lightened I don't want it. So I don't use them anymore. Tooling marks were lots of tears and gouges in critical and hard to clean up areas. Breech face geometry was never right and it was the hardest slide to get running from everything I've tried. Don't waste time convincing me, I've moved on.

I busted mine in very short order and was very disappointed in the tooling marks and geometry. 10k rounds? That's a good month or two. Drilled a giant stop hole in mine in an attempt to get one more match out of it.

You can Google and find all SAAMI specs. 0.754" is max tolerance for brass so it's the minimum end of tolerance for the chamber. A go, no-go gauge set is your friend. https://saami.org/technical-information/cartridge-chamber-drawings/

Tall, tall berms. High roof covering each bay. Lots of picnic tables with shelter. Sign me up.

this.

The tumbler is an option. I sand any corrosion areas and then paint with dykem. No shiny.

This is probably more correct than anything. I can't remember the last time I changed a mag spring even though I keep plenty. Anytime I have tried correcting a problem with a mag spring it's never been the culprit. As I've said before, once a spring takes a set, that's it, it stays that way. A well tuned gun shouldn't have any trouble continually running with an old mag spring and an old recoil spring. In fact, that's a good way to check that your gun doesn't have hidden underlying issues.

In my opinion this is an outlaw only sort of thing. I've been subjected to one of these one time and it's a terrible idea, at least in the context of USPSA. USPSA is about high level execution. You are presented a shooting problem, you formulate a plan, and then you execute, all in the interest of maximizing your score. It's not about being realistic, it's about testing your skillset. And that skillset involves planning a solution and executing. Without those two items it's not the sport we train to play.

10.2.4 as already stated. 2 procedural penalties and score the best two hits per target. Very easy scoring situation.

In order to confirm, you have to shoot it. Ideally there is a test fire/function bay at the match to do this kind of thing. At many majors and most locals there is not. In those cases I will find an RO, explain my situation, and ask if they will assist in allowing me to test fire. If they say no, I thank them and go find another RO. In some cases the RO may have you do your testing in a bay with a stage if there is no squad currently shooting, or the RO may take you to an unoccupied open bay. I've done both. Short answer is use a test fire bay if it has been made available and if not find an RO to assist you.

First file off the edges at the chamber entry around the extractor clearance notch and sand everything there so it's lightly radiused and smooth. This will not fix your issue, but it may stop a few. Take the slide off your gun. Put a few rounds in the mag and insert it in your grip. Take a close look at the alignment and height of everything. See how much the mag can change position or orientation if it wiggles. This is most likely your issue.