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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!


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About ehowell12

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    Finally read the FAQs

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    Huntsville, AL
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    Ethan Howell

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  1. It was 5.5 months. They work great now though - no more issues thus far.
  2. He responded to an email inquiry from his website, but I wouldn't even begin to expect them back for 2-3 months. I was just shy of 6 months in - but I have them now, and they work great.
  3. Does anyone in the Enos-sphere know of another way to contact Beven Grams w/ Grams Eng. other that the phone number & email listed on his website? I sent a couple mags for tuning after chats on the phone, and have had radio silence since. I knew the turn-around wouldn't be quick, but it has been a number of months of silence and I'm getting concerned. I am in no way trying to start a witch hunt of any kind, dude is a wizard with 2011 mags - only asking if anyone who knows Beven could say, "Hey, give this guy a call." Thanks!
  4. A longer (1/2"-3/4") pan head screw coupled with an appropriately sized (ID and OD) piece of stainless steel tubing (from McMaster Carr) on one of your mounting screws could possibly achieve the same thing. Basically make a "peg" out of one of the dot mount screws, and the angle is all depenant on you. Just an idea!
  5. @CHA-LEE, Thank you for all of the recommendations! I'll look into these for sure. So far, here's what I have: 1) I've also been curious about this - I do plan on looking into spacers with the STI G2 tubes and my old 1.16" ammo when I get them back from Grams. 2) A couple days ago I did round that edge some and polish the disco rail down to 2000 grit. I do think this helped a lot, but I haven't seen real results yet - I've only shot the long 1.20 ammo (that ran before) since. Again, I do plan on doing more testing with short, JHP ammo. 3) This makes a lot of sense. I do use an undersized die currently, but only recently went to that from a Mighty Armory size die. I saw more of a gap before the U-die and long ammo somehow. 4) One of the first things the gunsmith and I did was cut the feed ramp as you described. That particular mag tube is an old one that has had a previous life in a lot of different guns (one of which was basically a bolt action), so that's likely where that came from. Similar marks don't exist on the other mags, and there aren't any signs of mag to feed ramp contact on the barrel 5) Agreed on tuning the extractor as well. Also agreed on the timing of doing so. Side question: What kind of tension is to be expected and "spec" for an Aftec extractor? The standard 2-4lbs for other extractors seems to be entirely too much tension, and extraction pattern is normal and consistent at ~1.25lbs.
  6. 170mm MBX full at 29 rounds - MBX guts. The pics are after doing the "Grams" trick I mentioned above. Before that there is a slight gap, but it always goes away afterwards. The gap seems to grow with shorter ammo. Pics attached! Excuse the dirty gun. Very little, if any. This was my first thought when the malfunctions started - We removed material until there was no overhang while in battery. Even very little overhang when the slide is locked back.
  7. I agree with all of that. I have tried a few different mag configurations - MBX - 170s, 155s, 140s, with all MBX guts, with Grams guts, with Grams springs and Taran followers STI Gen2 - 140s and 170s, with Grams guts. The 170s are currently with Beven being tuned. I do know of someone with some old skool SV mags that I could try, but were a few hours apart and haven't landed at the same match in a few months, unfortunately. With normal length 9major ammo (1.16"-1.17") I had nosedives in all of the above. In all of the above cases, a more RN profile bullet than a JHP helped, even at 1.16", but did not go away. Even at 1.20", with Everglades RN JHP still nosedived 1/~100 rounds or so. Right now, with the MG CMJ 124 at 1.20" I've yet to have a nose dive in 500 rounds. MBX mags with MBX guts and STI Gen2 140s with grams guts. Trust me, I reallllly don't want to be tied to one bullet from one manufacturer . There's, what I would call, a sufficient bevel at the bottom of the breech face. I'll get a pic uploaded of it shortly. With the shorter ammo, I did notice the top round being pulled forward. Enough to potentially cause a problem. However, I do not see it nearly as much with the long ammo. Maybe because it physically can't be pulled far enough forward to cause a problem.
  8. I had a dovetail plate mount on a CZ - it lasted about 5000 rounds, then the dot would jump when the hammer would fall (dovetail became loose). IMO, dovetail mounts are good for deciding on a dot that you like and that will survive a slide. Once you choose, mill it into the slide. I've got probably 35k through the CZ I mentioned, and all but the original 5k have been with a dot milled into the slide. Same dot too As previously mentioned, height over bore, in this magnitude, does not matter at the end of the day. Most have trouble finding the dot coming from irons - dry fire some and that'll go away (sure, a lower dot is easier to find from irons without practice).
  9. I'm still open to suggestions - I've investigated all of the ones thus far, and have found "non-issue" results. I agree, I shouldn't be limited to one bullet profile, but how often do we hear "I only use X bullets" or "It only like Y bullets"
  10. UPDATE Well, folks, I think my issue is resolved. Thank you to everyone who made suggestions - hopefully this will help others that fight similar issues. In a roundabout way, all the mags went back to MBX for testing. The tubes seemed to be in spec, and in their current configuration ran 2-250 rounds in two test guns. In my case, the MBX tubes do seem to like MBX followers the best, even though many replace them with other followers. Three of four STI G2 mags with grams guts had the same nose dive issue (2x140 and 2x170). The 170s have gone to Grams for tuning, and I haven't gotten them back yet. What I found: The gun / mags / system hates the typical JHP profile - PD, Hornady XTP, etc. I hate this, but luckily there are lots of good options for jacketed bullets. 115gr PD JHP @ 1.16" - NOPE 115gr PD JHP @ 1.18" - NOPE 115gr MG CMJ @ 1.16" - NOPE 115gr MG CMJ @ 1.18" - Better, but NOPE At this point I decided to abandon the 115s, and go to 124s only to be able to load longer, since that with a RN bullet seemed to be the first sign of positive results. 124gr Everglades RN JHP V2 @ 1.16" - NOPE 124gr Everglades RN JHP V2 @ 1.18" - Better than 1.16", but NOPE 124gr Everglades RN JHP V2 @ 1.20" - Best results so far - only one nosedive in 150 rounds. This is up from at least 1 per mag. Since the MG CMJs are much more RN that even the Everglades RN JHP, I decided to try those in a similar manner as the Everglades RN JHP. 124gr MG CMJ @ 1.20" - WINNER!!! (at 170pf) **Note: I do have to use an undersized size die to get sufficient neck tension at 1.20". Redding or EGW have worked. **I do not get any bullet setback on multiple chamberings, while pushing it into the bench, or when forcing a nosedive. The crimp is unchanged throughout all the mentioned loads. Solutions: 1) So far, I'm 350 (live) rounds into this load, with (knock on wood) zero nosedives! Additionally, I have not been able to recreate the malfunction by hand cycling, neither slow or fast. 2) Also, I have employed a trick on loading mags recommended by Beven Grams - every 10 or so rounds: 1. Use your thumb to press down on the rim of the top round on the mag to slightly compress the spring 2. While holding #1, tap/smack the bottom of the basepad with your other hand. 3. Feel the rounds settle into a cleaner stack in the mag, and watch the gap between the 1st and 2nd round go away. So far, I've had no problems using this trick with an uplula or loading by hand - again, only 500 or so rounds into it, but that's way better than where I was. 3) I've settled on an untrimmed 9lb variable recoil spring through most of the above testing - might try an 8lb variable in the future. At this point I'm reasonably confident that the recoil spring weight was not the culprit. Now, time to go shoot some matches!!
  11. I also recently picked up an R3Max to throw on the Open gun. I would love to put one on my CO gun, but I'm already milled for a DPP. I just got the open gun back after fitting a new slide - so it's finally time to get some rounds downrange with the R3Max. I'm replacing a DPP with the R3Max, and it does seem superior in just about every aspect - the window shroud and brightness adjustment the big ones for me. The shroud/bezel is much less noticeable than the DPP, SRO, and RTS2 in my opinion. I look forward to putting it through its paces.
  12. Me and Loctite are BFF. I use red on the mount screws, and accept the fact that I'll have to break out the heat gun to break them free. I even use red on the mag release button, again accepting the fact that I'll have to break out the heat gun to take it off. Blue on anything on or close to an optic - probably not a good idea to heat an optic like that. There's already too many potential problems. Good Luck!
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