gino_aki

Take your $1000.00 and the advice from this thread and go look for a USED gun...you might be surprised by how much gun you can get if you don't need to "smell that brand new car smell."

I used to shoot a .45 Open gun way back when...(sigh) when IPSC was less...well, serious. I think a few vendors still sell .45 caliber comps, two ports is all you need, three if you want more comp weight. Bushing comps don't work as the exit hole has to be big enough for the barrel to poke through while the slide is cycling which pretty much defeats any gas pressure going out the ports. No side ports needed, you'll never have enough gas pressure to warrant them. If you can find them, use the 152gr hardcast bullets...I used to use 7.2 grains of Winchester 452AA which morphed into Super Target, however the current WST seems to burn faster so I can't vouch for using that charge weight with it. If you can find some WAP that might work, or WSL, maybe Titegroup, or Ramshot Silhouette which is supposed to be very like WAP. Dot and mount combo can be anything you like, from current C-More set ups to a Docter in a Bomar mount (your .45's do have Bomar cuts don't they? lol) to a Weigand with any generic red dot on it. Springfield Armory used to sell a really low picatinny mount that they used on their Bullseye guns, I got one of the last ones from them.... One thing you might want to consider is that with the amount of recoil generated by a .45 Open gun, scope aperature becomes a factor due to the increased dot movement...if you can get your hands on one of the big Leupold-Gilmore's or Tasco ProPoint PDP5's (42mm, set up searches on e Bay and have them email you alerts), you won't lose the dot when shooting and the field of view is great...seeing multiple targets through the scope. Of course you can always go real old school and shoot iron sights, if you have to see "red dot" put a fiber optic front sight on, or even the JP Double Rings.

If you're going to shoot a .40 caliber bullet in Open, you might want to consider going with 10mm, download to make major even with 135 grain bullets, no need to experiment with loading lengths to finesse feeding problems, etc. I ran a .40 in Open for years on a Para unramped frame, Quadralock barrel, EGW comp. I used 155 XTPs over 7 grains of WAP for the accuracy of the load, wasn't the softest shooting but I knew where the bullets were going. If a new barrel is in the works for the Open gun anyway, maybe one chambered in 357 Sig if you dont mind the reloading hassle. Brass is cheap off of eBay and everything else, rig mags etc should work fine. Also you get your choice of all the great 9mm/38 Super comps out there. The above mentioned Para Open gun is in the process of just such a conversion to 357 Sig, and I may be able to work the load/power factor to be able continue using an unramped barrel. You've got a P-16 so no worries there, just whose barrel you want. Except for magazine capacity you'd have all the advantages of lighter, 9mm caliber bullets.

Are the series 80 firing pin block parts still in? Are they interfering with slide travel? Is your ammo being resized correctly? Have you miked it to make sure? Lead bullets? Are they building a ring where your cartridges headspace in the barrel? Is there any interference where the barrel hood fits in the slide, perhaps causing the barrel to "twist" into battery? Is the extractor hitting the mouth of the barrel? Jerry Kuhnhausen wrote an excellent book on the 1911, in english that layman can understand...good reading for more info if you need it.

I know you're asking about out of the box but my vote would be for a gun I built myself from components, Caspian frame and slide if I could afford it, Essex frame and slide if I wanted to save a few bucks. I don't know if it's just me or I got bad examples from other sources, but the guns I build work and the ones I've bought don't until I've finished tuning, changing, grinding, polishing, etc, etc, etc, on them.

This happened a while back at one of our State Championships...teaches the lesson about modifying your equipment. I'd just gotten the then new Hogue PowerSpeed holster and while setting it up put in an extra spacer to make it "looser" for an even faster draw. Any of you familliar with this holster know it has a cylindrical locking block that slides in and out of the trigger guard as you manipulate the lock. It had worked fine in two club matches prior to the State so all was good, right? Well, on about my seventh stage of the match, get all set after "Load and Make Ready" (it's a turning target stage run by computer with all targets left displayed at the end of the sequence) so I want to really get the gun out of the holster FAST from the surrender position or else I'll end up having to wait and poke instead of shooting in sequence. Beep! Hands come down and BLAAAMMM!!!! Hole in the ground about 8 inches from my foot. Unload and show clear...I'm already freaked out...bend over to get my shooting bag...gun drops out on the ground. Far as I can tell, the extra spacer allowed the gun to twist enough in the holster to let the locking block hit the trigger, and from the above description you can also tell my safety got pressed off on the "grip" rather than the "draw." Thay couldn't DQ me twice...I'm sort of amazed they let me stay around to help out for the rest of the match. Anyway, I got the holster set up the right way afterwards...and got a stern lesson in letting too much trying for an "edge" overcome standard safety practices. Hope you guys can learn from my mistake...Shoot fast, shoot well, but above all SHOOT SAFE!!!

If you want any cold blue to "stick" you have to heat up the metal first, ala the way Brownells instructs with their Dicropan "Hot Wter Bluing" method. For the Dicropan way you use a heated tank of water after cleaning to get the metal up to 180-200 degrees before you slop on or immerse metal in the cold blue. And yes, you have to "card the metal with steel wool after to take off that black residue you're now getting all over your hands. For the Oxypho Blue you can heat up cleaned parts with a blow dryer, just be careful of getting skin oil on any of the metal or you'll get spotty results. And don't expect the "black" finish that hot salt bluing gives you. It will actually be a a "blue" type of sheen, but if you're doing the whole gun and everything matches, you should be all right. The other thing to watch out for is different alloy compositions that "take" the cold bluing reaction differently and so come out a different shade.......

I use Lee Carbide 10mm/40 dies and and a Redding taper crimp die in a Hornady Lock-N-Load that I set to resize all the way to the shellplate. Never had any problems with any brass, even Glock fired...I did polish my chamber though, with a felt bob and jeweler's rouge.

Local PD THROWS AWAY all their once fired .40!!!! Last week I came back from the range with half a five gallon bucket of Winchester and Federal cases. Sure they were fired in Glocks but I've never had any problems with it. My boys complain, though..."AWW Dad do we have to go in the dumpster AGAIN!?" I still pick up my empties though...have gotten 10 reloads out of some of it. I like getting to spend money on more primers, powder and bullets rather than brass.

I've left this info at other places in the forums, but here it is again: Para frame, lightened Caspian slide, EGW/Bedell style three chamber, four side-port comp, two barrel ports. 7.3gr WSF, 7.4 WAP Federal 100 primer 155 Hornady XTP 1.192 OAL...using 10mm mags 181.2 PF, 1169 fps This is my old load that I used when PF floor was 175, still working up the load for 165. Thanks for the data on 135's trying to find a load for that weight bullet that will not blow up in an unramped barrel.

I've always had to load long for my Para Open gun because I've got those older 10mm magazines...1.192 oal. Adds advantage of larger case volume so I've also not had pressure problems loading 7.4 gr of WAP, or 7.3 of WSF behind Hornady 155 XTP's and Federal 100 primers, varied cases. 1169 fps, 181.2 PF, UNRAMPED barrel.

I believe lightening your slide would let you stay with your 7 lb spring which softens the slide jolt you get from the slide's reciprocating motion. Traditional slide lightening points are: top rear of slide (past where a Bomar cut would be) down to where the rear serrations start and to about 1/4 inch of where the hood cut ends. Corners left by this type cut at top of serrations can be beveled also for more metal removal. Be careful that bevels don't compromise extractor tunnel. Top forward portion of slide can be cut with slots or removed entirely ala Briley "Beretta" style slide modification. If you run a Hybrid barrel there is that slot cut...only consideration is to stop cuts about 1/4 inch forward of the locking lugs in the slide. Side holes in slide usually start behind front serrations/ forward contour count for cosmetic purposes, usually used in place of top forward cuts to get slide weight where you want it. Other traditional methods involve cutting Government length slide to Commander length (shorty) and using lightened recoil spring plug. Some have also removed additional metal from slide at rear sides from area between ejection port area and rear end of rear serrations. Extractor tunnel considerations apply here also. Some have also surface ground the sides of the slide to get that last bit of weight off.

This is a copy of the post I put in the other Docter thread.... "I sure wished I'd have read through this thread before I decided to go with a slide mounted red dot...ahh well, 20-20 hindsight. Anyway, I got in on the cheap with a FirePoint from eBay to mount on an older Bomar sighted Open single stack since my eyes won't let me use iron sights fast enough for Open anymore...out here in the hinterlands (Maui) a single stack is all you need since we're still limited to ten rounds. You wanna see how things are run in a Democrat controlled state, ya'll just come out here and see...but don't get me started. I'm getting vertical stringing now though, even though the Bomars were fairly right on. (Hope the home drilled ports in the barrel aren't to blame). JP Bomar mount does have a tendency to work loose, but still strings shots even when tight. Just ordered a Docter from Brownells with the EGW mount ( hey, aluminum and three hunnert bucks has got to be better right? duh) to see if it's the sight or the gun. Sure wish I'd known that I'd have to invest another 300 bucks or so (more? ack) to get it mounted properly and bulletproofed. I DO like the cleaner lines of the Firepoint, and don't really lose the dot if I hold the gun properly...the ledge on the AW Custom slide stop really helps there. Plus, no way do I ever hit the mag release on a grab off a table. Like others have mentioned, I think the transition between my hopefully soon to be Grams-magicked Open gun and my trusty old Limited singlestack will be a lot easier. This especially in light of the "multi-division entrant" nature of most of my club's matches. I would have to mention that I don't like C-More's. For me it's a lot easier to index a tube type red dot. I shot an Aimpoint on my old Open gun which now wears a PDP5. I never lose the dot on that gun and being in B means it doesn't really matter if the gun is a little heavier. Plus PDP5's can be gotten fairly cheap on eBay. And no, not the new generation of cheapo Chinese copies, although the thought of having 5 or 6 sighted in and ready- to-go sights in the gun bag for less than the cost of one C-more is intriguing for a shooter on a budget. (And who isn't?)" As for International shipping, have you investigated FedEx's service? I sent out some computer parts to a guy in Australia no problem, even though it was fairly expensive. If you really want one, and will pick up the costs I'll do the legwork for you.

My buddy Ray and I are of the opinion that IPSC guns are ALWAYS works in progress...so we not only avoid hardchrome, we usually don't finish the gun ever. This probably applies to all you guys out there who are inveterate tinkerers. We always want to tweak this or add that or try the hot new comp. Ray recently had to have the dustcover on his main open gun welded because it cracked and what should have been a fairly straightforward repair was complicated because he had a weak moment and had it hardchromed when he THOUGHT he had it perfect...after which of course he lightened the slide, recontoured the beavertail, changed scope mounts...I think you get my drift. Nowadays we just cold blue the thing if we haven't anything better to do, (what, you reloaded enough ammo already?) and make sure to slop the rust preventive on the gun's skin between matches. After all, you gonna admire it or shoot it?

I sure wished I'd have read through this thread before I decided to go with a slide mounted red dot...ahh well, 20-20 hindsight. Anyway, I got in on the cheap with a FirePoint from eBay to mount on an older Bomar sighted Open single stack since my eyes won't let me use iron sights fast enough for Open anymore...out here in the hinterlands (Maui) a single stack is all you need since we're still limited to ten rounds. You wanna see how things are run in a Democrat controlled state, ya'll just come out here and see...but don't get me started. I'm getting vertical stringing now though, even though the Bomars were fairly right on. (Hope the home drilled ports in the barrel aren't to blame). JP Bomar mount does have a tendency to work loose, but still strings shots even when tight. Just ordered a Docter from Brownells with the EGW mount ( hey, aluminum and three hunnert bucks has got to be better right? duh) to see if it's the sight or the gun. Sure wish I'd known that I'd have to invest another 300 bucks or so (more? ack) to get it mounted properly and bulletproofed. I DO like the cleaner lines of the Firepoint, and don't really lose the dot if I hold the gun properly...the ledge on the AW Custom slide stop really helps there. Plus, no way do I ever hit the mag release on a grab off a table. Like others have mentioned, I think the transition between my hopefully soon to be Grams-magicked Open gun and my trusty old Limited singlestack will be a lot easier. This especially in light of the "multi-division entrant" nature of most of my club's matches. I would have to mention that I don't like C-More's. For me it's a lot easier to index a tube type red dot. I shot an Aimpoint on my old Open gun which now wears a PDP5. I never lose the dot on that gun and being in B means it doesn't really matter if the gun is a little heavier. Plus PDP5's can be gotten fairly cheap on eBay. And no, not the new generation of cheapo Chinese copies, although the thought of having 5 or 6 sighted in and ready- to-go sights in the gun bag for less than the cost of one C-more is intriguing for a shooter on a budget. (And who isn't?)

If I remember correctly, WST which used to be called Super Target (am I showing my age?) was developed to replace WW 452AA which I always used from the get-go in 45 acp because it was slower burning than 231. It was also the recommended powder to use with those gamey 152gr bullets in a then cutting edge 45acp Open gun built on a Para gunsmith frame. Both 452AA and Super Target burned fairly clean, although I seem to remember yellow grains of residue left by both. I've tried WST in my Limited gun at 4.8 gr under 200 gr LSWC's and LRN's, works although it seems to have a sharper recoil than I remember with either 452AA or Super Target. Might be too many years of Open gun too.

Buy some of the NON FLAMMABLE Brake Cleaner from the local Auto parts store or Auto department of the WhicheverMart. Buy Shop rags, (red ones) or terry towels too. In a pinch, old t-shirts work. Give loaded case-lubed rounds, brake cleaner, rags and ammo boxes to slave labor aka son who wants to shoot. Show said slave labor how to spray cleaner on rag, wipe off rounds, mark and categorize into ammo boxes according to case headstamp. Go reload next batch. Make note to teach slave labor to reload and take over task of at least reloading HIS ammo. Remember to take said slave labor to next match and watch his enthusiasm grow with each stage. Find said slave labor to be mucho cooperative at next reloading session.

I order my bullets from Cabelas, with their shipping policies you can't get any cheaper out here in Hawaii. I've also gotten Zero bullets from Angus Hobdell at GhostHolster.com he's still got his "Special" prices going on as of 6/11/05 Also have ordered from Tom Stidham at MasterBlasterBullets.com...good service and his bullets work. Powder and Primers from local gunshop when he gets a large enough order from us reloaders together. Brass from eBay! Cheap once fired deals from Range scroungers. My club runs local "Open Days" at range and I get brass from casual shooters who don't reload. Local PD THROWS AWAY!?! their .40 S&W!!! (AWW, Dad, do we have to go dumpster diving again?) LOL!

I used to use WW Super Field before Winchester discontinued it previously in .40 S&W, haven't tried the reintroduced stuff yet. I'm wondering how it will burn though since the newer WST seems to burn hotter/faster than the older (circa mid-90's) Super Target. Used to use Action Pistol in the interim but it's discontinued. Super Field was cleaner than Action Pistol in my open gun but both were very accurate under Hornady 155 XTP's. Currently experimenting with HS-6 for .38 Super...seems to burn pretty clean, and also fairly accurate. Generic bullets, havent tried too much of the premium (Sierra-Hornady-Nosler) stuff yet. Shooting buddy swears by IMR 7625 for .38 Super Comp.

new to this forum but here goes: I've been shooting my Para for years at 181pf never had any problems, recently started down loading to get less recoil with the new cap set at 165. I may have been extremely lucky. Gun: Self built Para on gunsmith frame, UNRAMPED! Centaur Systems barrel (remember them? really sophisticated system)...two barrel ports (me) older three comp chamber, two recoil chamber compensator (similar to an EGW). Lightened Caspian slide, PDP5 on a Weigand mount. Para 10mm mags...which leads to the next: Load: Previous: What I thought was 7.3 gr of WW Super Field or 7.0 gr of Action Pistol under a Hornady 155 gr XTP, Federal SP primer, Federal or Winchester cases. Later found out powder measure was indicating about .7 or .8 grain light so load was actually more like 8.0 gr of Super Field or 7.8 of Action Pistol. Super Field load usually factored out at 178- 179pf, the Action Pistol load at 181-182. Current: 6.8 gr WW Action Pistol (on my last pound, durn, this was good stuff) gonna have to experiment with the reintroduced Super Field. As an aside, the more recent WST sure burns a lot hotter/faster than the older (circa mid 90's) Super Target so I'm going to have to start low I think with the new Super Field. OAL: 1.192 (way long) because of the 10mm (preban) mags 1.182 with Montana Gold 155 gr bullets Both loads were very clean, very accurate out of this barrel, also worked with D&J 155 gr round nose hardcast bullet but leaded the comp. Lead bullets had to be sized .400 when loaded this long or else they'd stick in the rifling. Loader Set-Up: Hornady Projector (old) Hornady Lock N Load (current) Lee carbide dies, Redding Taper Crimp Die. Crimp measures .420 at case mouth. I use Hornady One Shot lube...and have cases I've loaded at least 6 or 7 times, no bulging, no pressure signs, have never had any set-back problems. Recoil spring in the Centaur System came from maker at 15 lbs but have since cut 4 coils to get it to cycle with that long comp. I'm wondering if the unramped barrel feeds easier so doesn't set bullets back. This string of posts interested me since I'm considering another Para to build a Limited gun on. I do plan on using 180-200 grain bullets in that gun so maybe this problem won't crop up.