Glockinator

You may have to go old school and cut your own pre travel tabs.

My Para Pro 14 45 has a aftermarket trigger but I bought it that way so I am not sure who made it. I think it looks like a Ed Brown if you can get one to try.

It's on a 16 inch and I don't even notice it. When I shoot the barrel moves maybe a quarter inch. Last time I shot it was off a bench. There was a dividing wall between the next bench. I started noticing a ever so slight breeze after every shot and then realized some of the blast was bouncing off the divider a few inches away. It was not bothersome and that was the only time I have noticed any effects from it.

That is what made me buy it and I can verify it is effective. My ar barely moves or has any recoil.

I'm running a M4-72 by Precision Armament and don't really notice any blow back unless I am near a wall for it to bounce back from. The recoil reduction is amazing.

I'll assume your responding to me. I may concede that your system could cut costs dramatically. But what's your 600+ yard 300 Blackout load? You mean my 0 to 500 load? What ever I want it to be, with enough hold over. It's a lot less effected by wind than the 223.

Not necessarily. I'm casting my own for the 300 blackout both subs and supers. Forming brass from LC 223 and reloading. For me not having to use store bought jacked bullets saves a bunch.

Suppressed 300 blackout in a SBR get's my vote.

I'm building a SBR with a suppressor that screws on under the hand guard. I just realized I need a gas block with the adjustment reachable from the side. Anyone know of any?

The rear set screw is normally directly opposite the hole. You can take the gas block off and remove the gas tube. Remove the set screw and slide the block back on upside down. Center the set screw hole over the gas hole in the barrel and measure any gap needed. When you reinstall the gas block a feeler gauge can be used to get the same gap. If you lightly twist the block as you tighten the set screw you can feel the set screw as it centers into the dimple. If a gas block is touching a hand guard you usually get some random flyers in odd directions. Stringing might be more related to the fit of the upper, barrel nut. and barrel.

I am farsighted and normally wear mono vision contacts. That means I wear +1 for distance in one eye and +2.75 for reading in the other eye. If you are not familiar with that your brain takes it into account and uses the correct image so it works for daily use. If I wear a contact more than +1 in my sighting eye the red dots get pretty badly misshapen and fuzzy. Even at +1 there is some distortion but it's usable for me.

I'm going to look real hard at a POF Flat trigger.

You say it has some work done to it and that is the root of the issue. The hammer should not follow if the sear and hammer are correct. I'm lousy with 1911 triggers but it needs to be looked over by someone competent.

*thumb rest [generic]* Hmmm even does it for me.

No the sizing die within limits will size longer brass. I do it all the time with cut down 223 that I am sizing to 300 blackout. I cut them behind the neck a little long, size to blackout specs and then trim to proper length.

I want to say mine needed .030 to line up with the port on my Ranier barrel. Luckily since it was a set scre type you could just flip it over to check the alignment since the set screw and port are even.

Ok I'm known for taunting bears and feeding sicknesses. It's hard to tell that I carried this gun daily both on and off duty for around 12 years in the 80's and 90's before I succumbed to a Semi Auto. This one started out as the standard brush stainless finish. I even shot a bit of Practical with it before IPSC and USPSA were dreamed up. It's made one trip back to Smith for repairs and certain "friends" made sure the performance shop knew it was there. They brought it over for a spa day in their shop. This trigger is the nicest I have ever seen on a S&W revolver. Gnat's don't stand a chance when I have this gun out for a stroll. Other than that this is what Flitz will do for that revo. One with and without flash cause they look a bit different.

I had a stainless 686 I carried for years. Started cleaning it with Flitz and over the years it picked up a pretty good shine even though it started as a brushed finish.

Small primer 45's are the most insidious case ever invented.

You would probably only notice any real differences between a 16 inch middy and a 18 inch in the handling or over a chrono. Perceived recoil between the two might be to small to tell.

I am running a 16 inch middy with a adjustable gas block and a ar weight carrier and PA M4-72 comp. Recoil is virtually nonexistent.

Strangely enough I have a Syrac block as well that leaks from the side hole. I figured it was bleeding off the excess gas.

I've got the lee die in 40 and decided to get the bulge buster since the sizing die was not removing it all.

Depending on what you want to do with it might be stretching the legs on a 223 a bit for that range. Might consider a 6.5 if you intend to use it for hunting.

Why don't you do what reloaders have been doing for years. Take a marker and color the base of the casings once in a shell box.