TDA

^^^ Works for me too! Dillon dies as well.

Is your resizing die set to just about touch the shell plate?

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The only way to "verify" that would be to shoot it with your gun using a chronograph. Barrel length will affect velocity as well as barrel condition, barrel dia, chember dia, OAL, possibly temp, distance from muzzle to chronograph, altitude, etc.

If the shell plate is loose enough to have an effect on your OAL or crimp, it's just way too loose! Your problem is with your consistency in removing and installing/adjusting the shell plate, not with the adjustment of the crimp die or die adjustment in general.

The best approach would be to get a chronograph and work up your own loads. Not all guns are the same, so what makes power factor for someone else may not do the same for you. Barrel length is a huge factor, and power factor can vary with even two barrels of the same length.

There's a clue...

It lets you know that there was an issue seating a primer so you can address it before you end up with competed rounds with spent primers or without primers.

Apply less lube.

I use one of these to solve the static problem. http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Anti-static-ESD-Adjustable-Strap-Antistatic-Grounding-Bracelet-Wrist-Band-/121653424560?hash=item1c531bf1b0:g:RPwAAOSwKrhVV4Ch

Lucas Marine Grease is blue, so that right there qualifies it!

The click is the shell plate advancing pawl resetting. Mine is barely noticeable. Perhaps you could use a weaker or shorter spring so it doesn't snap into position so hard. That really makes no sense though, as the shell plate shouldn't be loose enough to where that pawl resetting should cause the shell plate to move at all.

I never use any with my 650 and Dillon dies.

I was going to bring that up in another recent thread where someone was talking about possibly reloading for a friend. As I understand it, selling ammo that was reloaded on a progressive press is considered "automated" and falls under ITAR regulation. Is that correct?

Are you familiar with these? https://www.dillonprecision.com/rl550-xl650-dillon-toolhead-stand_8_3_23606.html

I switched to small primer .45ACP as well, as I also load 9mm, .40, and .38 spec. so I can now just use one primer size.

I have a wet tumbler and never use it. I shoot, dry tumble in corn cob, reload, and shoot. I have found absolutely no difference in performance between de-capped spotlessly shiny wet tumbled cases using SS pins, and cases dry tumbled with the primers in that are dark inside. The difference is that it takes far less of my time to just dry tumble and load. I load ammo to shoot, not to put on display!

Yes, friction drives the plate, but it is adjustable.

If you plan to use the same tool head you'll be replacing the 9mm dies with the .40 dies and they will have to be adjusted. And to switch back to 9mm you'll be removing the .40 dies and installing and adjusting the 9mm dies again. If you buy a secone tool head and powder measure you simply remove the two pins from your 9mm tool head, slide it out, and install the new tool head and .40 dies. When you switch back to 9mm, just pull the pins, slide out the .40 tool head assy., and slide in the 9mm tool head assembly. Once you have the dies set up in their respective tool heads you don't need to readjust them. Just swap out the entire tool head assy and go. In order to do this, you'll need a second tool head, .40 dies, a second powder die and powder measure, and a .40 cal conversion kit.

In my opinion, the simplest answer to the original question would be found at the range by trying the techniques he/she was asking about and seeing which worked best.

But now it's going to hurt even MORE when you loose your mojo and pinch you finger with the ram.

I keep my presses grounded. May or may not make a difference, but I don't have static issues.

I wish my hands were that small.

The cases are too clean.

Missouri Bullet offers them.