4n2t0

I'm not sure why I was quoted in your reply. Are you having a conversation with yourself? Who said “FPs load better than SWCs”? I think you're a little confused, remember you're the one who posted a general statement that made absolutely no sense, lol. P.S. We're not mind readers, next time try to be more detailed.

If the clutch is not allowed to slip (too tight) you'll burn out the motor (or shorten its life span). The manual tells you how to find the appropriate amount of slip. We all want to load massive amounts of brass into the casefeeder but it might end up costing you in the long run.

Exactly my point, that's why Memphis' reply confused me.

I use Dillon dies but I've still managed to break/bend a few pins in my day. I get 10 pins for $8 so it's not a huge burden on the wallet.

Weird. For me it has more to do with the bullets ogive than the point/meplat. My situation is the exact opposite. The FP I load have a wider ogive, which means they engage the rifling sooner, so I need to load them fairly short (1.09) for my CZ Shadow. Generally, I can load much longer with RN bullets.

After breaking my first pin many moons ago I decided it was a good idea to keep a 10 pack of pins on the reloading bench from that day forward.

I use Dillon dies to load 147's without issue but the bullet I load is RNFP so the round nose stem doesn't make contact with the point/meplat of the bullet. I would take out the seating insert and make sure it's clean. Also, you can probably fill the hole in the seating stem so that it won't mark the bullets but I would make sure the insert's clean first.

Just out of curiosity what "new bullets" are you using?

Are you sure it's not your sizing die. Regardless, brass flecks are getting embedded in either your sizing die or the FCD. Grab some steel wool and clean the ring(s) then polish the ring(s) with Flitz or similar. Here's a picture of what to look for...

My BHP showed no difference, just like all my other handguns. I'd chalk it up to dumb luck.

Handguns won't show any appreciable difference in accuracy by changing the OAL, I wouldn't waste my time trying. If you do happen to notice an accuracy difference when changing the length it will be due to a change in velocity +/-.

Yeah, I don't know what mechanoset talking about. To be completely honest I don't think I understood a single thing from his post, lol.

Weird, using a fired case works for me even with .356 bullets. Regardless, the other way you can do it is to load a round in the press really long and continually seat the round shorter until it will plunk and spin in the barrel. That will give you the max OAL for that barrel/bullet combo. Don't forget to make sure they'll also work in your magazine.

Nothing will happen and you'll see a negligible difference at the chrono. More importantly have you push tested the barrel(s)/bullet(s) combo to make sure that length will work? What about the magazine(s)?

I don't deprime pistol cases but I always wet tumble with pins. Pin separation takes me about 2-3 minutes with the FA wet/dry media separator.

I load to 1.09 for my Shadow with a FMJ 147gr bullet. Don't worry about the short length, use the OAL that works for the bullet/barrel combination. You might be able to drop the load a little but I would chrono first to see what you get before modifying the charge. Prior to getting my Shadow I loaded the same FMJ 147gr bullet to 1.135 with 3.6gr of Titegroup. When I shortened the OAL to work in my Shadow I really didn't see a difference at the chrono, maybe 10 fps, which is negligible.

The projectile's profile is what matters. Regardless, load them short(er) and live life happy.

Your high on assumption and low on facts. A whole 10 years eh? Wow, I'm über impressed. Have a good one...

1) It's OAL, AOL was an internet service provider. 2) The OAL is projectile/barrel/magazine dependant not firearm specific. 3) You specifically mention the G17 and now state that since the only Gen 5 available is the G17 (which is also incorrect) that we're supposed to know which generation you were referencing? 4) What makes 1.13 better for a Glock than 1.09 or 1.10 or 1.12 etc.?

I don't believe you Chicken Little. Start at a minimum charge and work your way up. As long as you don't do stupid everything will be fine. Even when you do stupid... http://dailycaller.com/2013/03/05/battered-bullets-does-bullet-setback-matter/

Not could be, always is. Loading short shouldn't be feared. Also, the only time I worry about compressing a load is when it's so compressed that it doesn't allow me to seat the projectile to the desired length.

Consensus is you should always check with a push test and find your own OAL. Take the new Gen 5 for example, your "consensus" 1.13 might not pass a plunk test.

Yup, I too vote for one of the above being the culprit. I would lean towards it being a firing pin/spring problem. You've already somewhat eliminated a problem with the ammo, since it functioned properly in another firearm, that leaves you with a Springfield 1911 problem. What brand of primers are you using? I bet they aren't Federal...

I'm not sure there's anything you can do to completely stop brass from oxidizing but the dry/cool approach always helps. You can also tumble the rounds once in a while to keep them looking good.

LMAO, that's priceless. Thank you for being man enough to share that with us. Cheers!