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Their frames changed at one point because they used to crack by where the grip meets the trigger guard. they now have a cut-out in that section to prevent this. I was told that when they did this, they also changed the company that supplied the frames and therefore they have now different tangs. Not sure if this is correct and do not want to propagate false info, maybe someone can confirm?

Had a chance to get and review these set. As you can see in the video, I also own the extreme grips made in aluminum and I compare both of them. The original wood grips are too thick for me, I can't reach the controls properly and the extreme are too thin, so I am kind of stuck in the middle and although the extreme makes the gun very usable for me, a tiny bit more meat would provide better recoil control. The results were outstanding! I like these set a lot and you can add grip tape which makes it a plus for me. Hope you enjoy the video, cheers

if it is always happening on the same round, your bullet shape (ogive) is touching the slide release and pushing it upwards. It is a common issue in this platform when you are using specific bullets that are loaded too long. What happens is the spring is not putting a lot of pressure on the round and therefore it is being pushed forward by the previous bullet that has been chambered, this, and the 90 degree angle of the breech face / rib causes some friction pushing all the rounds forward and it is more noticeable when the magazine spring has less tension. This is normal functioning however, when you have a weird bullet shape or a reload that has been loaded too long, this happens. How to fix this: First make sure you are not causing this by improper grip, I did not recommend this at the beginning of my post because you suggested it always happens in the 10th round, however, if it happens intermittently, look at your grip. Your weak hand might be the culprit. If that is ok, - Shave the angle off the breech face, 600 wet/dry sandpaper on a flat surface works its magic. 15 minute elbow grease and you are done. -Change your ammo and if you are reloading, load shorter. Cheers

I don't remove the trigger often but I cut a slave pin out of a QTIP to hold everything in place while I drive the roll pin in. Will give these pins a try though .

bet you money that the XP spring will work with any extractor. 3000 rounds + here and counting.

thank you! yes, that is the only fitting I have done and I am running both 1 piece sear and titan. Cheers

I did not do any fitting on the hammer either, I think it was discussed here before that the DA/SA does not require any fitting for the hammer / sear. Am I incorrect?

over 2000 rounds since I replaced the spring and no issues here! Wolff spring it is.

sight made by LPA, contact LPA and get spare screws and springs.

brace yourselves, memes are coming...

if you are just starting out just try a few different guns, you will find what you like. the glock is an awesome pistol, used one for many years and won lots of local competitions with it, I can say I shoot my Glock just as good as my tanfo however I have a tendency to go back to the Glock now and then, I shoot it for a bit and then I appreciate a good SA trigger a lot more for those 20 m shots. Glocks are great for and can run very well, however if you like plastic, there are better triggers out there. I am curious about the arsenal fire arms strike one, they are releasing a new pistol soon that might be the holly grail of polymer guns. At any rate, I still like my tanfo for competing in production more: better ergos, better trigger, better magazine release, more accurate and easy to shoot. If I had to go to war though, I am not taking the tanfo...

the tanfo is a lot easier to work on that the CZ. the sear housing and relevant parts are similar however the Tanfo is somewhat simpler. It is normal to feel a bit overwhelmed the first time, don't worry, just follow the video that memphis did and it will really help. There is also another video from a Kiwi or British guy that explains how to dissasemble the gun. I have actually followed both because I found that memphis would do things a certain way and the other guy another way, so I kinda mixed the experiences and created my own. Knowledge is power. Since that first time, I have done my first tanfo twice and my 2nd one once. They have both identical trigger pulls at 6lbs (medium extreme hammer spring, titan hammer, one piece sear), that pop all the hard primers.

Interesting, going to call tanfoglio later this week and see if i can transform one of my 9s to .40

I like these! I like the hard chrome more for its looks, however, the black cerakote stock II are growing on me. Can someone tell me if a .40 barrel will fit in the slide of a 9mm Stock II, or does it need a new slide? You know, like in the Glock 22 you can put a barrel conversion, I am thinking that these stock II could be converted as well since we are using a bull barrel... Off topic question...sorry

8lbs to go over here! just bought 4lbs of V320

just wanted to add to this, that this was happening when using tango stock extractor spring. Ever since I switched to a XP spring (WOLFF), no more issues and no need to baby the gun.

if the gun was fine I would first look for: -recoil spring rod, is it bent, deformed? -front sight screw, if tighten too much it will rub against the barrel (stock II) and the gun will hung up until the screw or the barrel mat to each other (not recommended). -inspect frame for cracks, look around the area where the slide stop travels through. -sear cage, is it bent? remove your recoil spring and barrel, put slide back on and make it travel on the frame. You should only feel resistance from the hammer, this test is better performed without the hammer installed. -as stated before, look for any defects on slide and frame and ammo maybe being too long.

Fyi, the round edges on the slide and barrel are normal, they arr like that. your problem is a burr on the barrel (as far a I can tell by the pics).

Poor barrel fit. this is a 2 min fix with correct tools and knowledge. clean the gun fully - no oil and with the slide on a table upside dow slide the barrel in slowly by hand and feel when and where it rubs. use a sharpie to paint the areas. Hard to tell by pics but the barrel seems to be culprit.

thank you guys

curious as to what kind of fitting are we talking about in the sear? I am running a Extreme sear and other than fitting the safety, am I missing anything?

well, the fit between slide and frame is not exactly 2011 custom kind of fit anyway... they are all very sloppy and not exactly tight. Accuracy comes from the locking mechanism/barrel fit on these guns. Both mine have a lot of wiggle movement in between frame and slide and when I say a lot, it is not GLOCK movement but it is not certainly tight. The edges of the rails are also rough in certain areas, and when I say rough, it is not chatter or pikes but it is not silky smooth, therefore I can see why polishing will help. With all that being said, you either polish it or shoot it and you will get the same results. surfaces will mat to each other over time and my first one is way smoother now than what it was 3K ago. Also, yes, the WOLFF springs for long slide are shorter than factory. Its ok. Cheers

lol

John this has been my experience. I recently did another experiment running a really worn extractor that had been declared as 'worn out' by previous owner and run ok with XP spring... Cheers to the THREAD THAT NEVER DIES!!! DEDICATED TO ALL THE FANS!!!