Avenida

correct, titegroup is the powder I have been using and I would not recommend for shooting volume with this gun unless you clean it often. at 500 rounds it started failing to extract. Cleaned the gun and everything back to normal.

Most people don't know this, therefore, cleaning often and after shooting is what is recommended. If you reload, your maintenance schedule will change depending on the powder you use, premium powder will foul less, cheap powder will foul more. For example, I learned that the extractor of the stock II is very susceptible to fouling, and it is recommended to clean it every 500 rounds with dirty powder. That was my recent experience. Also, we are discussing rust here. If you shoot your gun, just wipe the goddam thing with a rug and solvent to remove sweat, water, humidity and displace water and grime left by your hands. It takes less than 3 seconds to do this, so being busy is no excuse. Your gun will not rust if you invest 3 seconds before storing it.

do you clean your guns after shooting them? do you maintain them. Never had any gun rust, ever. I clean my guns after every use. I shoot 12.000 rounds per year.

gonna do this Friday, just out of curiosity and report back.

I have had the shadow 2. the ergos are very uncomfortable. That huge bump they added to the back does not work for me. I sold the shadow 2 and I am shooting a Tanfo Stock 2 which in my opinion is way superior in accuracy. Also, the gun swings faster than shadow 2, as the shadow 2 is a little top front heavy and feels weird in my hand. I shot mine a lot and I could not love the gun. I sold it and I am loving the Tanfo.

9.000 here!

No problem, in other words and if you are looking for simplicity, just get the Medium spring and forget about it. In a match, you will not noticed the extra 2lbs, ever and the SA is much crisper and nice with the medium spring than with the light spring (the L spring makes the first step/pretravel in SA before the break very spongey).

I have a fully polished trigger job as per the recommendations on this forum and my trigger is silky smooth at 5lbs 3oz with EGD light springs, however, SB primers lit unreliably with this setup and Federal are 100% (regardless of seating depth), I have tried everything. I gave up chasing the perfect reliable light trigger with hard primers and installed the medium EGD (Eric Grauffel parts) MEDIUM, now I am 100% with any primer. I have all extreme parts in my stock 2 including the titan hammer. Trigger is now 7lbs 6 oz but I do not car, I prefer the extra 2lbs than dealing with finding Federal primers (non existent) and light strikes and unreliability. I am happy now.

Thank you!

Hi John, I was using Memphis mechanic description as in 'barely falling', or in other words, no, the trigger was not being pulled fully, just enough to barely clear the hammer hooks because that was my interpretation of 'hammer barely falling' as described above. I did contact Memphis for help - Lol - and he said that his description is not accurate, so I am not going to hold him to it, he probably wrote that as he was learning the mechanics of the guns, the same I am doing it now. By the writing above, I thought that the hammer would be quicker than my finger depressing the trigger fully and once the hammer is released the firing pin would impact the safety if the block was not fit to clear when the sear barely clears the hammer hooks (WHAT A MOUTHFUL THAT IS ) , which is why I was setting the safety to clear on that point, on the 'barely falling point'. In my mind I was battling with the question: what is the point of the safety if it clears completely once its barely disengages the hammer hooks? I could not understand how that would help anything, and it seemed a very silly useless safety if that was how it worked. So I experimented with this using the guidelines posted. Again, no hard feelings. It was probably a combination of things and I do not blame Memphis, he writings, not only on this matter but also on other tanfoglio things, is what brought me to this forum and I appreciate his help very much. Thank you. So, in regards to the over travel screw, I did notice the over travel screw and how that would affect the sear 'dis-engagement', this is something I learned with the Shadow 2 as you can tune this gun to release the sear 'just barely' to clear the hammer hook, as this gun has no firing pin safety. So yes I was aware of it and made sure it had enough space. However, I have not modified the screw position (left it as it came from the factory) as in my opinion is has enough clearance (there is a visible gap of maybe 1.5 mm when the trigger is fully depressed). Perhaps you could give me an idea of how much clearance should I allow? Maybe I am exceeding it and I should tune for 1/4 less than what I have now. Just to improve trigger feel. I did try pulling the trigger fully, and, during this test, all my safeties where clearing without touching the firing pin when the hammer is depressed fully so that is reassuring, but perhaps a minimum adjustment would be required just to maximize reliability. I guess that the best way to test this would be by dry firing and see if there are marks on the pin or safety. That would certainly make it easy. To recap: Based on your comment above, I can assume that the firing pin should pass the punch test while the trigger is pressed fully (which I was not doing). That makes more sense, as it will catch the firing pin in the event the hammer inadvertently falling.

I am a rep here in Canada for Jayson's grips. I really like them.

I had the same problems, in my case it was bad grip (coming from a Glock 17). Very high grip. I changed my grip and problem solved, however, if the gun is not new and you are familiar with it and the problem just came up, then it is most likely ammo related.

Ok well, after ruining my 3rd extended safety, I think I am finally getting the hang of this. lol I need a little bit of help, I have all extreme parts on my stock II so this is not a problem of parts in-compatibility. I tried trimming the little notch and also the head (of course, in different safeties), I have had the same results with both however trimming the head is much easier and faster once you know the dimensions you need to trim for. After 3 trials, I have decided that the best way to trim this (this is costing me a fortune) is by trimming the head, I always take my time and I know now, after a meticulous 3rd attempt that the safety starts failing after it is shorter than 0.501. I guess I need to figure out now, what do you guys mean with 'when the hammer barely falls' to properly trim the safety. My guess is this would be at 0.502 in my case. However, if I leave it that long, I can push the pin through but I can feel a slight drag in between the safety and firing pin. Please note that it is not grabbing, but it is dragging, meaning it is slightly slowing down the firing pin. My problem is that I do not know what is the correct setting for this and I keep on trimming it too short. If I keep trimming until I cannot feel any drag, then, the safety will fail and can be pushed through when the hammer is cocked (there is a bit of resistance still but it is possible to poke it through). This is extremely difficult to explain by text but I am hoping that my explanation is clear. HELP! thanks guys

I read the story about this gun, pretty cool, however he finishes recommending the buffers. Do you have a link to the other thread where the big names advise against it? thanks

yeah these buffers seems to go a long time, after a few hundred shots I noticed that it was still like new. I do have the extreme guide rod. Maybe this is not really needed for a 9mm pistol, I bought them under the impression that it would save the slide and frame for battering however, after shooting with out the buffer I can't really find any marks or anything... I presume then that the point of the buffer is mostly dampening recoil than saving the gun from battering....

I am new-ish to the tanfo platform and I am having great success with it. Shot with a Shadow 2 most of this season and I am currently shooting the Tanfo. I was able to put 600 rounds in 3 range visit and I am blown away by the difference in between the two platforms, very happy with the Stock 2. I have purchased a few shock buffers for this pistol, and I tried it with and with out and I could not notice any difference in felt recoil, however, the action becomes stiffer when the buffer is in, like if there was less wiggle room between the barrel and the slide when out of battery and it takes more effort to rack the slide. The gun was used for about 200 rounds with a buffer with no ill effects, however, when operated by hand I can feel it is tighter. Wondering if any of you has any first hand experience with these buffers. I am thinking that they might be a gimmick and might as well keep them out.

Here is a nice video showing the Tanfoglio factory, what a cool place to work in !

this should be covered under warranty. It is a factory defect due to poor fitting. At least, here in Canada, for much less I know people that have had the upper replaced.

cheers !

Just a quick shout out to MemphisMech! I hope he reads it. With your videos and all these post, I was able to set my Stock II AUS with all extreme parts with a lot of confidence that I would do a good job. I took my time and I polished all the internals. My DA trigger is a little bit over 5 lbs and my SA, well, very light. I got a few light strikes with S&B primers, at least five in 300 rounds, Federal 100% ignition. However, upon my return I checked the gun and noticed a that the FPB and the FP were colliding into each other and there was peening on the FP. So I found this post. This is the only forum with all this info here. I can't thank you enough and BTW, I love this pistol. It is a pleasure to shoot (I also owned a Shadow 2 and this pistol puts the shadow 2 to shame). Cheers and thank you again!

I checked with the local distributor, all the extreme parts are allowed in a regular stock II for IPSC. I am not interested in cerakote as I prefer the looks of the polished stock II, :), so I went with that. Pistol is arriving soon along with a bunch of extreme components. I will report back once everything is done!

thanks for doing this, going to tackle this project next week

A side note on IPSC rules, it is funny that all EXTREME parts are IPSC legal, these are all polished parts and I believe they are chromed as well, however, it is funny that the original blued factory parts become illegal after they are polished... IPSC rule is fun eh? lol

thank you, this is exactly what I needed to know. I am looking forward at working on this trigger as I really like the platform, but I much rather shoot the chrome version than the cerakote one, which is why I bought this one. plus the fact that I can work on the trigger and customize it to my taste, makes it very interesting.

Well, I think this post is derailing in a direction that is not really answering my question, we can ignore the fact that the gun will be used in IPSC, this is a backup pistol as I have a EXTREME Stock that I will be using when traveling internationally. I am just trying to get to the nitty gritty no pun intended of polishing trigger parts. Is there a link to a video or perhaps a thread in this forum that might indicate how to improve the Sear surfaces? I did see Memphis videos, however, I am not sure what is the technique used for polishing... Thanks