Avenida

You talked to the factories and they say no. Lots of people swear by them and say it add longevity to the pistol. It takes stroke away, it reduces impact of metal parts, it is useless, it is a gimmick, it feels weird, it feels great, blah blah. At the end? who is right? Besides all anecdotal information, what is you first hand experience.

the lubrication industry is one of those industries that sell the same product rebranded to fit a niche. lol, guilty as charged. I bought so much of this stuff that I feel stupid. I have settled for red and tacky grease, thinned down with whatever oil I have at hand. Been using it all summer and winter. Never an issue. And also recommended by the factory (SVI).

all those slide cuts make me nervous. Wondering about slide durability. I own a different brand with hybrid barrel btw so lots of material been removed too. not bashing! Just admiring

no photos, I have a 5.4. Post some up and I will take a look.

haha going to revive this zombie thread to add my experiences: if the grip starts wrong i.e too much finger wrapped around the front serrations of the grip and web of the hand not centered with the grip safety, you will never reach the release unless you have stupid long thumbs. paying attention to your hand placement before the draw and practice this motion hundred of times has gotten rid of this bad habit brought over from smaller guns. good news is once I did that, I can reach the release easily (I have small hands btw) and ALSO my grip has dramatically improve. I will do a video if I have time!

milestone? get an SVI for race or if it is an occasional shooter check out Bunker Arms, he can a master piece. Honcho and Atlas are not high end guns.

slide glide seems like over priced RED and TACKY grease, it even smells the same, so it must be. Sorry. I use whatever, they are all the same.

The old Scheumann used to crack. Was it an ISLAND barrel? SVI used to use them, stopped when they realized of this issue and they now make their own.

seems like 50K would be an acceptable minimum and a NO PROBLEM for these guns. After that is luck, so I was told by the people from Bul factory. They had guns reaching 200K but they said, it is unpredictable, after 50K you are on your own.

going to resurrect this mega old thread looking for new opinions!

I hope they fixed the grip, the 92 was very thick for me. If the ergonomics have been slimmed down I will in for one. I just sold all my tanfoglios and need something to replace it with.

Thanks everyone. I am hoping that someone with the exact same gun and powder/bullet can chime in and save me the hassle of finding a 3rd chrono as the last 2 I used gave me weird readings and / or did not work properly.

anyone with the ideal OAL for a 2011 BUL pistol. The throat seems to be pretty deep and it will accept rounds as long a 1190. I am shooting at about 1185 with no issues but wondering if someone has any other experience. I am loading major loads.

I agree with you partially because as mentioned that was my reasoning as well, 9mm brass is a different beast so I am basing my findings on reloading 40 major only, which tends to bulge a lot more than 9 and it is pretty obvious to the eye. Bulged brass will chamber and pass a gauge most of the time, it does not some of the time but in most cases a resizing die will make any bulged brass fit a chamber, this is the problem because once it is loaded and in my 'ready to shoot bin', I will probably end up firing it. Edit: The problem with this is that a sizing die will not size the web of the brass, instead it will push the bulge down and it will sometimes create an obvious crease on the brass, and this is were we see case failure separation. A roll sized brass has been brought to spec (I believe not exactly to factory spec but close, correct me if wrong) and therefore reducing the chances of case separation Roll sized brass has a much longer lifetime than non roll sized brass according to the owner of Roll Sizer. I spent some time chatting about this with Kevin Whitehead, he is the owner of roll sizer and he would have a much better explanation about it than me as he can give you the dimensions of the brass once it is resized, but in a nutshell, they shoot .357 major loads and they can re-use that brass +30 times. I guess that is due to Australian regulations and the difficulties associated with finding shooting resources, bans on specific caliber, etc. Long story short, it took me a long time to understand why it is a good idea to do it, but for me, after seeing too many people waste 2/3/4 thousand dollars in one click, not to mention my own safety by getting a metal shower, I will be definitely be investing in a roll sizer. It is mathematically a no-brainer. Like many, my brass is picked up and who knows about the history of it.

Use to think like you until I witness case separating way too often in shooters that shoot major loads with bulged brass. Your experience will probably fit a lot of shooters that are loading .40 maybe minor? there I do not see as much of an issue as the pressure will be much lower. I am not going for a bit more reliability only, if that was the case I would probably not spend the money on a roll sizer, I think that roll sizing would help in prevent case failure/separation as you are bringing it up to spec, that, coupled with a good load, good quality powder and die that doesn't undersize your brass and you have a recipe for success. Please the brains of the reloading world correct me if I am wrong. I am actually looking at this way because I am loading .40 major and I am considering a roll sizer for the above stated reasons.

according to ?

How is this even a question? apples and oranges

Thanks

Just got a bul sas II what an incredible machine. I am shooting campro 180gr TC and wanted to know if anybody developed a load for that V320 and that bullet for this particular barrel. dont have access to a chrono at the moment and using 4.7 gr of v320 cycles well but dont think it is making major. Feels super mega soft!!!

Just glue a piece of lead or brass to it. It just needs more weight. Make sure the cables are not pulling, use zip ties to bring them closer to the die and let them hang with lots of slack and no tension. the dropper has to move fast or it will let one or many bullets down.

Yea that is not an issue for me, know my Dillons inside out. for me to purchase the Mark 7 I wouls have to sell the Dillon so dont want to be left hanging without a working press if I do get a mark 7. I am very interested in since it seems well built. The new lyman acquisition concerns me a bit as this could mean a new set of growing pains and therefore lack of support. Wondering if there is anybody here who has gotten a recent build just to see if these are trouble free.

How do you run a Dillon powder measure on this press?

Are all machines affected or only the ones with autodrive?

I was thinking of upgrading to a Mark 7 but after reading all these issues I feel more like.... just keeping my 650. can anyone confirm what is the status of the current Evolution presses. I can't afford to wait for a 'working' press of going through teething pains so if this is the case I will refrain from looking into this any further. thanks!

Never heard of issues with the other two but Atlas... I will stear away from anybody claiming to be the best or to know it all. Neither. Buy an SVI and be happy