yellowfin

Most guns stay in the main safe, carry guns in smaller safe with one out for HD at a time which is what I'm carrying that day.

This is excellent information. I just ordered a TS 40 for myself a few minutes ago and looks like the 578 will be my choice for it. Now to actually practice enough to be worthy of the $$ dropped on this...

Since we're on the subject, how close to a Tac Sport can the SA's trigger be adjusted? I'm wavering back and forth between the two.

Could a used police Sig 226 work also with a fresh set of springs?

OK, so how do I get the bolt out of the broken one? I might just swap out from the new one--so to get that one out do I just back it out all the way or what?

So where in the heck does one find a RIA double stack 40 these days? I keep looking for them and they're sold out in the places I know to look (Bud's and Gunbroker).

This powder measure is only about a year or two old and I bought it new. I tried aligning the insert and it didn't improve much. I didn't think that was the issue because it was putting up a fight even with the first inch or two going in to start with, but I'll see where we're at now. The newer powder bar goes in to about where the square slot is for the nut on the end of the operating mechanism. What could it be catching on?

Hmm, so could this same fouling with residue prevent a new powder bar from fitting in? I did something really stupid and accidentally screwed in the adjustment screw too far and snapped the end off, so I had to order a new large powder bar. Upon trying to get the new one in, it is putting up some fierce resistance and absolutely will NOT go a millimeter past the front open end. Not at all. Am I doing something really wrong, is the powder bar slightly oversized, or is there something to this that I'm not understanding? I've got a lot of rifle loading to do and this is irritating beyond belief.

A thought popped into my head a few days ago to get my dad a fairly nice Christmas present at a fairly low cost: load him up some 38's for his Ruger Security Six which he enjoys. I don't shoot .38 myself but I keep the dies around because I have a couple of friends who do and I've loaded for them a couple of times as a gift/favor to trade. The objectives are accuracy and mild recoil--not that .38 is ever particularly spicy like .357 can be, but I know it can be like a .22 when you want it to be. I wish I could have time to work up a load but he'll be at the house on Thanksgiving so I want to be able to have it ready for then and the whole batch done. What's to know about the difference between 148gr WC's and 158gr SWC, generally speaking? I'll be using Lee dies on my 550. I'll consider cast lead, coated, or plated. Thoughts?

A lot of what you guys are finding is the nontoxic (lead free) primers for LE ammo. As we know, lead poisoning is a concern and it is known that primers are the main culprit rather than the bullets, so to reduce the occupational hazard to PD's they market the lead free primed loads. This is why some of you getting brass from PD ranges are running into it so much. They crimp all of those loads because the nontoxic priming compound is higher pressure so it keeps them from blowing out of the pocket. Federal headstamps theirs NT. I ran into a rash of this when I first started reloading years ago with .40 and found it in half of the brass I was picking up. It drove me absolutely nuts until I looked it up and understood it--like the Glock bulge, it was/is a known issue with .40 because of so many PD's running it. I'll take every bit of it I can get and simply separate it in its own bin until I have enough piled up to make it worthwhile to swage them all.

Silly question: will the RIA's take a 6" slide if one were to buy one and want to upgrade it? Or would it be better to get the 6" 10mm they make and get a .40 barrel for it?

Now are we talking GI guide rods (extended by an inch?) with these bushings on 6" or is it still full length rods, or some do one and others do the other?

When someone asks you about your weekend and before you speak you realize they know nothing about USPSA rules and divisions, reloading, AR barrel/upper brands, sights, aftermarket triggers, Glock models, differences between 1911/2011 and CZ's (and Glock), split times, inertia vs. gas operated shotguns, suppressors, quad loading, caddies, dry fire routines... so it takes a LONG time before you know where to start... When it's trash day and you look in neighbors' recycling bins for large clear plastic pretzel jugs, ice cream tubs, protein powder jugs, and other similar containers to hold large amounts of brass.

Plastic protein powder jugs, tackle boxes, feta cheese tubs, a pegboard, a large cabinet, and two Rubbermaid drawer chests keep it relatively manageable for me.

So what does one do to prevent this?

Blue Bullets in the 147gr FP variety for me in 9 and 200 gr SWC in .45. For .40 I use King Shooters Supply purple bullets.

Titegroup for me mostly as well, but thinking about maybe doing Unique for 45 and .38 Special to keep my Titegroup supply just for 9 and 40.

Blue Bullets 147 flat nose have been working for me through the last few thousand rounds and I have no reason to switch. If I ever get good enough to outshoot the accuracy I'll likely have moved on to something other than Production anyway.

Ah yes, the Luther Braxton episode. That was particularly well done. I agree the show has majorly taken a downturn with the whole baby thing and now they're really dragging that out. Do writers of a show turn stupid at some point, get bribed to deliberately tank it, or what? I still watch it and hold out hope that there will be a turn back to the better. I will say that I have gained one thing very cool from it. The Monarch Douglas Bank episode introduced me to rose petal jam. I have been making it ever since from rose petals harvested from my neighbor's rose bushes. It's delicious and delightfully delicate, and very cool for the rarity factor!

"Make sure you're right, then proceed." -- also spoken by Mr. Crockett, and personal advice I try to live by as best I can.

H335 has made quite an impression on me. As others say, the metering is simply better than anything else I've ever seen or heard of, the charge weights are thrifty, and because of that perfect metering oh dear goodness the ammo it makes is obscenely accurate. For 55's there simply isn't a reason to use anything else. None, not one.

I have long favored Hornady dies. The locking rings are truly superior to those others use and the seater pushes on the ogive so it seats more uniformly and doesn't deform polymer tips.

For something you can't shoulder I'd say you'd be at a disadvantage, particularly at distance. So if even legal you for the most part wouldn't want it. There are guys who do run SBR's at times but with a brake on it (as many do for recoil control) the blast is really, really awful.

Lee for pistol dies, Hornady for rifle dies for me. I even add Hornady locking rings to the Lee dies then they're perfect.

Some other details start to matter in the process in terms of consistency. How consistent of a powder charge are you getting? What's the crimp you're getting on it, the outside diameter? Any of the brass stepped such as FM or Ammoload (decreases internal volume)?