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Tear it down and clean the primer feed, and be sure to push a small (3/8" x 3/8") cloth patch, wet with alcohol, through the magazine tube a few times to clean the interior. Then hold the tube upright on your bench, with the plastic tip resting on the benchtop. Drop one primer shiny side down into the top of the magazine. Listen for it to slide down. Gently pick the tube up. The primer should be resting on your benchtop. If it is stuck in the plastic tip, then replace the tip.

If you remove the depriming assembly from the size die and roll it along the edge of your bench, you can see it is straight or bent. A complete handgun decapping assembly is available online, stock#21530. The SAAMI standard for a flash hole diameter is .075". The Norma is the CIP standard of .055". You can try an RCBS headed dacapping pin in our decapping assembly. They are a bit smaller, as some US 40 S&W cases have small flash holes. Die Decapping / Depriming Assy & Parts (dillonprecision.com)

People can damage the shellplate by short-stroking the handle and impacting the decap pin into the top of the shellplate. This usually happens when someone else just cycles the handle. Otherwise, if the pocket is damaged upward, this can be done by trying to prime crimped primer pockets, ringers, or unprimed cases. Using an aftermarket swager on the machine will do this as well. If the case pocket is damaged downwards, trying to deprime a Berdan primed case, one of the cases with the internal shoulder, while applying excessive downward pressure on the handle will do that. I've probably seen 2 shellplates actually worn out from normal use. The rest were damaged due to excessive force repeatedly applied.

With a long grain extruded powder such as IMR 4895 or 4064, expect a variation of +/- .2 grain easily. Be sure to start with the hopper at least 2/3 full, and throw at least ten charges and dump them back before you begin weighing.

Grandhaggis, Unscrew the primer seating assembly from the underside of the platform. The top of the primer seating punch should not protrude above the face of the surrounding bushing. It should be somewhere between .020" below flush and flush. If above flush, disassemble the primer seater as much as it allows ( some are pressed together, allowing you to only remove the spring) and scrub with some solvent and a toothbrush to remove whatever debris is preventing the punch from retracting fully.

If your case feed bowl has a yellow zinc-plated steel plate making up part of the bowl, remove the upper right sheet metal screw and see if the bowl springs away by about 1/8" from the hole location. If yes, then make a new hole in the plastic bowl and reinstall the screw. Once in a while, during assembly of this style of bowl, The plastic bowl was too tightly clamped, flexing the base of the bowl just enough to allow a small case to roll under the plate. Unflexing the bowl corrects for this.

If the carbide ring is loose, then debris can build up on the top of the insert, so that when you run a fired case up into the die, the carbide ring is held at a slight angle. This is all it takes to get out of round cases, as the carbide ring is not squre to the case. If you send us the die, we can press the carbide ring out of the old body, and install it into a new die body. The carbide rings are pressed in, along with a light amount of loctite, and then crimped into place. This only takes a day or so in-house.

The smooth shank of the handle is a very snug slip-fit. If necessary, apply some very light oil to this area, so the handle can slide in easier.

Blue Loc-tite is your friend in this instance.

Please send a photo of the shellplate to support@dillon-precision.com

Probably once a year cleaning for this volume of output is fine.

The plastic hopper tube on Dillon powder measures has a built-in baffle just above the base of the tube.

No, as the 1050 (and RL1100) toolheads have an additional alignment pin at the priming station. The CP2000 toolheads lack this pin, as well as the primer seating depth rod.

Did you remove the magazine tube during your caliber swap? If yes, make sure the blue tip is almost touching the top of the white primer retaining pin. There is a ridge on the tip that has to drop into a corresponding groove. Next, pull the machine handle down. With the handle down, now pull the primer slide rearward. does the slide move rearward any further? Did it pick up a primer afterwards?

Check the rear of the primer slide. There is a roll pin pressed into the rear of the primer slide. Over this roll pin there should be a rubber sleeve. If the rubber sleeve is missing or worn, it causes problems. This rubber sleeve is merely a short piece of 1/8th " automotive vacuum hose. Visit any automotive parts store, buy a foot of the hose, and you have a lifetime supply.

Brass is not supposed to have any burrs from punching the flash hole, but it does happen. We don't recess the bottom of the backup rod, as the recess would be wider than the tip of the .22 backup rod. I suspect the primer flash would push the flashing that closed over the hole out of the way enough to ignite the powder charge. Sounds like an interesting experiment.

Contact Dillon Precision. We have pre-soldered electronic internals we can send you. We need to know if the buzzer is rectangular or round, as the plastic housing might need to be replaced as well.

your photos are taken with the primer index arm in different positions. In the upper photo, the spring is compressed.

Wipe out the bowl with a paper towel moistened with alcohol. Do not use any abrasive material to clean the bowl.

If you are using new brass, or wet tumbled brass, the lack of carbon on the inside of the cases will allow the cases to build up brass streaks, called galling, on the powder funnel. If wet tumbling, try using a car cleaner with wax in it. New brass needs to have the inner case mouth deburred to reduce this.

Hesed Tech, the empty 223 case is tall enough that the case runs into the depriming pin as it is being pushed into the shellplate. Some users have modified the cam and otherwise modified the parts to attempt to make it feed 223 cases, however, after our testing we determined it wasn't reliable enough to sell to our customers.

Use the small pistol case feed plate with one spacer washer underneath it. The 300 Blackout case feed adapter would probably work. You could probably modify the case feed adapter with JB weld epoxy, by partially filling in and building up the alignment groove. You might have to use JB weld to glue a piece of shim stock to the face of the plunger.

Height is not an issue. Primarily, we never machined a station One locator compatible with the rim dimensions of the 30 M1 Carbine case. It doesn't interchange with anything else we already offer, and based on conversion kit sales, it isn't popular enough to justify offering one. Case diameter might be small enough that the plunger fails to push the case completely into the shellplate with the existing cam also.

We suggest using a C-clamp or bench vise to hold the cup & punch down completely into the primer slide while you retighten the set screw.

Could be a combination of primer cup dimensions and primer pocket wear as well. To rule out cup spring wear, measure the height from the underside of the primer slide to the top of the primer cup. On the 550 machines, this should be 1.215-1.220"