Rob1125

You couldn't buy all of the parts and accessories for the asking price. If it runs as intended, it is a screaming deal.

I have always preferred to have the work done on a base model pistol. That way I get it set up the way I want it. I'm the type that knows what I want (when it matters), and doesn't like to settle... If I attempt to settle for anything less, I'm usually not happy with it and end up spending more money to get it the way I like.

Sarge, throw it on the gun before you make your decision. I think it looks great!

If I remember correctly, the standard .223 chamber is a little tighter in the throat area, while the Wylde is between 5.56 and .223. This could cause the excessive pressure signs.

I would recommend getting the .40 since you reload. You can download to minor for games that don't use PF and you can load to major for limited and other games where that is a scoring advantage.

Hugh, one of the things I like to do when setting up my mags is polish the inside of the tube. I use 1500 grit sandpaper wrapped around a piece of flat bar aluminum. I do not remember the size of the bar, but it is no wider than the back of the magazine. I then wipe out the magazine tube to remove any residue. I also use a diamond lap to remove any flashing or burrs from the follower.

I do not have any experience with the STI 170's, but do have a lot of experience with the 140's. I have had very little luck with the factory springs and followers. I replaced the guts in my 140's with ones from TTI. I have also learned a wealth of information from the Freedom Gunworks mag tuning tutorial. http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=196590

Third vote for the TTI's. I use them with my 9mm Pro without a problem.

I wish I had seen this thread before I ordered a Starret from Amazon. I bought it based on name recognition and reputation from my high school machine shop experience MANY years ago. I received it last Friday and the first thing I noticed was the "Made in China" sticker on the end of the box. The scale is silk screened and not etched like I remember. Should have bought the Mitutoyo for just a few dollars more... If it doesn't perform like I hope, it's going back.

TTI did mine as part of upgrading my shotgun. Give them a call and I'm sure they could hook you up.

If you want more versatility with the gun and reload, go for the .40. You can work up a .40 minor and .40 major load very easily. The advantage is you use the same gun for multi-gun and limited. The gun has the same feel and trigger which will help with consistency between different disciplines. The couple of extra rounds in the 9mm will not make any difference unless you are at the upper levels of the game.

I have built several uppers using the BCM barrels and have never had a single QC issue. If I am looking for a chrome lined barrel, I always look for a BCM first.

I would buy the tubes from whatever vendor had them in stock. I would then go to the TTI website and order the followers, springs, and basepads. They make excellent products and their customer service is second to none.

If you are working for accuracy, refine your point of aim. Each hole in the target you posted only tells us one thing, where the gun was pointed when it went off. Put a smaller aiming point in the target. If you look at the target as a whole, you will hit the whole target. By using a smaller target, you may not hit the target, but you will hit much closer to the aiming point. If I am trying to shoot the tightest group I can at distance, I focus primarily on the front sight while keeping my consistent point of aim. For a double action first shot, press the trigger straight to the rear. Watch for any movement of the front sight. Maintain that focus on the front sight throughout the trigger press. One of the problems beginning shooters make, is they line up their sights and pull the trigger as fast as they can, trying to make the gun fire before the sights move. This is seldom, if ever, possible for the average beginning shooter. Another problem is raising the head as the shot breaks. This is done because everyone wants to see the bullet hit the target. This disturbs the relationship of the sights and the target begins to look like a shotgun. I like to dry practice for accuracy with just a blank wall in front of me. This allows me to focus solely on the front sight as I make my trigger press. I watch the sight for any disturbance in the alignment. I like to start newer shooters off firing groups at closer distance. We work on their fundamentals until we see actual groups. Only then do I increase the distance. Everyone wants to go fast, but if you can't hit your target it does you no good. I hope this helps.

I have three brand new SVI 9mm mags and they do not lock into either of the STI's I have tried them in. They do work perfectly in my polymer gripped 2004 vintage SVI. Both of the STI's I tried them in were from 2009-10.

Can you be a little more specific on the failure to feed? Is the round going nose down into the feed ramp? Since it is locking open on the last round, check to make sure the follower is not contacting the slide stop. I had this issue with my SVI mags. A little work with a file on the slide stop and the problem went away. Edited after re-reading the problem

I have had one Caspian built and have built a second one myself. I have also used Caspian slides on a couple of different builds. I have always had good luck with these products. I would not hesitate to recommend them to anyone for a single stack build.

I've shot it on several occasions. It is surprisingly accurate. It's is one of the cooler things I've been able to shoot.

It is one of the Colt reproductions of the 1877 Bulldog Gatling gun chambered in .45-70. I've spent 8 hours over the last two days cleaning and polishing it. It's simply a work of art!

This is one of the reasons why I think I have the best job around...

I had the opportunity to see Joe Cocker live several years ago. It was quite unforgettable. RIP Joe

I used to run a Para frame without grips on my open gun. The small tabs cover an opening in the frame and prevent dirt and grit from getting into the area. You can see the back end of the trigger bow if you run grips without the tab. If you want blue grips, but want to retain the tab, paint your existing grips.

I love my MSA Sordins. I've tried all of the other brands and none of them compare with the quality and comfort of the Sordins. I bought the TCI version because they have great customer service.

You would be better served spending that money on ammo. You have the basics covered, now put in the time behind the gun. As long as the gun is reliable, your hardware is not holding you back. You didn't mention is you have an optic. That would be the only item I would recommend if you are not running one currently.

Springer has the +0 pad that is extended .25 of an inch. 10-8 Performance also makes. +0 extended pad. The 10-8 pad appears to have some ridges on the front to make it easier to strip the magazine.