phucheneh

It sure looks like they're using the standard CZ front sight design, albeit with a set screw instead of a pin. I would think CZ sights could be modded to fit (drill/tap a hole, assuming you have the room in from of the sight blade). That would open up your options considerably. Otherwise, you're pretty much stuck with Sphinx's factory offerings...200 bucks just seems awful steep for a sight upgrade. That said, it looks like a nifty design, but also completely non-serviceable. What happens if the that hollow fiber insert gets cracked? Additionally, the overall diameter of the fiber compared to the size of the front sight seems like it's too large. Big fiber tends to kind of 'bloom' and make getting a precise sight picture more difficult. All just conjecture, though. I doubt you'll find much from Sphinx owners yet, but maybe you can find some opinions from owners of their Glock version- https://www.google.com/search?q=H.A.L.O+H3F&oq=H.A.L.O+H3F&aqs=chrome..69i57j69i61l2&sourceid=chrome&es_sm=122&ie=UTF-8

I have the .140 Dawson front with the .230 rear on my P1 and it works fine. The issue is that Dawson states that their rear sight (available in only one height) requires a .180 front, which is flat wrong. I know of no options that would work with their .180 or .195 fronts, unless maybe STI offered some really tall rear sights (I know I remember seeing stuff besides the basic rounded rear GP sight). The .140 or .150 is going to be what you want.

I checked yesterday and found the Q100 was already on the product page- http://www.grandpower.eu/kategoria-15-clanok-489-detail-q100-#ad-image-0

Why not just adjust the rear to where you want it, then measure your height and see if perhaps it's possible to create the same POI with a fixed rear sight?

Oh, and Nick- are you sure your mag catch is working right? Or that you're not having issues with specific mags? I'm not noticing any difference between the catch in mine and that of my mk7. If you mean the rotation of the button, it has always been there. It's just hard to notice with the stock mk7 button (but I did realize how it worked when I installed the extended button I got from Dawson). The only difference for me is that, for reasons I have yet to identify, some of my mags will not drop free in the mk7...it's not a catch issue; some of the bodies just fit the magwell a little tighter, it seems. They're all OEM GP mags with the red follower, too. As far as modding the gun, I'm not sure to whom you're referring- the only modifications that I've seen anyone make are the removal of the part beneath the hammer spring, and then there's me, who was AFAIK the only one wise and/or stupid enough to try cutting the spring instead. ;D I would agree with the sentiment that nothing else in these guns should really be touched. I don't think there are any real gains to be made from polishing, and yes, the gun is great out of the box. Hammer springs are IMO just usually worth tuning in a hammer-fired gun, given the gains that can be made with relative ease and no real drawbacks, assuming you ensure that you still have plenty of hammer inertia to spare. Like I said, I clipped enough off mine to take a half pound of the SA and much more off the DA, and it still lights the hardest primers I can find reliably.

Uhm, took my friends and their daughter shooting for the first time and after being drilled on safety and practicing dry at home for about 45 minutes they haven't had issues: I wasn't implying the gun was unsafe, or that there was ANY reason that anyone should be kept from shooting it. Far from it...if anything, a novice is probably safer and should do great with it, assuming proper teaching/supervision. In my case, it was simply that someone was so used to guns with SA triggers in the 4-6lb range. Not to mention, triggers that stacked up a little before snapping hard. The gentle roll of my ~2lb X-Cal simply caught them by surprise. That was my main point; some may not realize that even those with a lot of shooting experience should be reminded that this trigger is both light and has a different feel than most. Anyway, on the topic of 'is the X-Cal worth three times the price of a K100'...I'm gonna be the dissenting opinion and say no, it is not. But that's NOT the X-Cal's fault...it's a wonderful gun, and worthy of the ~$900 street price. The issue is that the K100 is easily worth 500-600. Lowest street price on the mk12's is about 500, I think, and that's still a great deal. What you get there, versus what you get in other common $500 pistols...e.g. the bottom rung of CZ-75's (not counting P07/P09, which are also relative bargains at $400 or less), Witness steels, Beretta 92 variants, ect...I think the GP is worth every bit of what anyone would pay for any of the other 'usual suspects' when it comes to entry-level hammer-fired production pistols. At that price, the X-Cal is 180% of the K100 price, rather than 300%...quite a difference, really. So, like I said, my answer is 'no,' but it's ONLY because the mk7 is SO underpriced. I think it's a no-brainer to give the mk7 K100 a chance and decide if you like the platform enough to buy the X-Cal...and I think most people will, but personally I like to get my feet wet with a low-cost gun before dropping serious money on the high-end model, assuming such is possible. I just don't see how anyone with 300 bucks to spare could feel remorse at having the K100 around as either a backup IPSC/IPDA gun, or an HD gun, or 'truck gun,' or whatever.

That's a great freaking price. Like I said, it would've been a 'buy' for me at 350 if it's really nice. I was wondering if a Tanfo enthusiast might pay more just 'cause it's kinda unique...I guess the answer is, if they were out there, the seller definitely couldn't find them, heh. The 15rd Mecgar mags (what a compact Canik comes with) will definitely not work. At least, not well...too long. I can't comment on if modern small-frame Tanfo mags will work- seems like I've heard the older ones are different in some way.

I hate this thread. I envy some of you guys SO much. Some of the things I watch you put together are just the epitome of what I would spend my spare time doing if I had the firearms/parts. And, well, a mill + the know-how to really utilize it.

I have no use for that many magazines, yet I am somehow still jealous of that pic. I'm also intrigued by the grip choice...I never see anybody using that backstrap, and it is definitely the least natural to me. The stock one feels very 'CZ,' the big one is more 1911. The pictured one is the only one I've never actually shot with...perhaps I should give it a fair shake.

But why would you feel that you need to shoot a CCW as well as a competition gun? Sure, you want to be as proficient with your carry weapon as possible, but in the end, it is a 'worst case scenario' weapon that you hope you never have to use; and if you do, you're going to be shooting a person inside of ten yards; not a target at thirty. A carry gun is made of trade-offs, whereas something you compete with has little to none- you can have easy access, a light trigger, a lack of redundant safety mechanisms, plenty of size and weight, ect. In a carry gun, I want concealment, safety, and ease of use. For me, that's a P290, 'cause it's tiny, but has decent accuracy and competent sights, and the trigger is DAO without being obscenely heavy. I don't want a manual safety on a carry gun, and I don't want a short, light trigger. DAO or a decocked SA/DA seems like the obvious choice to me, but you're comfortable with a Glock or XD, more power to you. Carrying a cocked and locked 1911 just because that's what you like to compete with, though? Seems silly to me.

They make dovetail adapters that fit the contour of the slide. A friend of mine has a Leupold Deltapoint that came with a whole slew of bases and dovetail adapters; couldn't tell you if the same would be available for your Vortex, though.

Good gravy, those prices... For the standard steel guns or a Match, you can buy a whole other gun for the price of their caliber kits.

If you drilled the polymer to the OD of the trigger pin head, you wouldn't be compromising anything. I don't really think the trigger pin is meant to retain the block, though. The front and rear blocks both slide down into grooves in the polymer, which keeps them from moving back and forth, and then are both locked in by a single roll pin. I would say there's more stress on the rear block, and aside from the one roll pin, it only has the sear cage (which itself is retained by the safety lever) to help keep it in place. Since all my measuring devices are locked up at my work, all I can do it eyeball a poly frame next to a ruler...but I gotta say, it looks like .89" is pretty close. The block inside the frame is definitely no wider than 15/16".

When I said the trigger pin should be the same, I was just thinking about the diameter and the width of the metal block. I forgot that the Henning pin had an external head/nut rather than being staked in place or some such. My suspicion is that if you drilled out the polymer on both sides and allowed the ends of the pin to sit flush against the trigger block, it may work. When in doubt, though, pull out the micrometer (or dial caliper). I don't have one on hand, or I'd give you the width for a steel frame.

Would anyone mind sharing a pic of their modded slide stop, just so I could get an idea of exactly how much material I should be removing? My Grand Powers have ruined me for guns that don't auto-forward.