alma

This is the pattern I use now but may alter it to get a bit more tape on my left palm. Disregard the Glock. It was between grip tape jobs.

Here is the Sterlok+ app. Is this the right reticle?

Seems like it can provide some of the same benefits as the ever popular gas pedals mods going into limited and open guns. If it works for you then I could certainly see how that leverage could help to control recoil. I just doesn't feel natural to me at this point.

You lost interest in exploring the depths of IDPA tomfoolery? Already chose sides in the great quad load caddie war of '14? Accepted that Production will be an equipment race? Maybe all of the out-of-the-box thinkers left for summer vacation.

I will try to post pictures tonight but it's essentially everything you can get where your left palm sits. You can what I generally do in my profile picture above. I may end up just covering the entire left grip in grip tape eventually. There right is fine for me as is.

You will likely be okay with 55 gn out to 400. I recommend using the Strelok+or iStrelok apps so you know your holds or clicks at any distance with your load of choice.

Funny, I felt like the improvements in loading techniques and gear have done much more to level the playing field. Much better than in the old days with weak hand loading which required significantly more practice and dexterity. There is no way that the spread of the time to load between the average shooters and the top shooters hasn't decreased significantly.

I think that example of being illegal makes more sense because the barrel would be quite a bit thicker and the gun would be more heavy (of course we do that the 2 oz rule that might catch this anyway). The fact that you can have two guns that are exactly identical (not just functionally) where one is approved and one is not is what really baffles me. Oh where, oh where is the rules is an allowance for common sense?

Double

Just buy a Vanek modified Glock trigger housing. It has over travel and pre travel adjustments and isn't a permanent modification like this one is. Either would be production legal since they are internal.

Is it supposed to unload like the new A5s? Someone asked me how they function so I made this video. Sometimes it's easier to show than describe.

You're can also use fine sandpaper wrapped over the spent casing and use that. I like 600 to 1000 grit for this type of application.

Almost always mixed. Some stage designers like to even put slugs in the middle of the stage to make planning your loads more difficult (like that's necessary). Have a good plan on how to keep at least two kinds of ammo separate for reloading in case you have to take more slug shots than expected for example.

The rubber grips should be fine. Many prefer those depending on how large your hands are. For smaller hands the aluminum thin or VZ grips are nice. I really like the feel of the stock rubber grips though.

Then you may need to break out the grip tape for the weak hand grip. The aluminum grips leave much to be desired when it comes to having proper traction.

That is because you have stronger muscles available to pull the gun in towards your body than you would to push it away. It wasn't discussed previously but I would agree that when shooting with one hand only that it can be beneficial to transition in towards your body for this reason (left hand transition left-to-right, right hand transition right-to-left).

Here it is:

That tells me that you might not have enough of your support hand engaged into the grip. I recorded this for another shooter some time ago buy continue to find it useful. There is a second video that explains arm and grip tension that I can post in a bit as well. Other than good strong grip, correct stance, and positive arm tension I would say that you need to fight that recoil and actively try to keep the muzzle flat while you shoot.

Try 100% grip strength. Grip the gun like you mean it and like you don't want it to flip in the first place. What does your actual grip look like? How well in your weak hand engaged?

Makes it much harder to follow through and call your dry fire shots which is one in the primary benefits of dry fire IMHO. You could really develop some bad habits to include pool trigger control and exaggerated recoil. Really bad idea. I see novice (and some not so novice) shooters at the range doing this all the time. They take one shot and allow the recoil to snap the gun into the air like they are in an old western. Sometimes they do it with such authority that it robs the slide of energy and induces a malfunction. Let your dry fire help to cure you of bad habits that can come from fighting (or not fighting) recoil, not add to the bad habits.

It's a possibility is your trigger pull is trying to pull through the frame where you speeds up. Some shooters like a little bit of over travel for that reason. Can you adjust it? Otherwise practice your trigger pull more to try to minimize the amount you are pushing into the frame.

Source: http://m.imgur.com/gallery/XCMtmd1

Please explain what you mean by elongating live fire strings.

As discussed

I watched your video. It kind of reminds me of this: http://youtu.be/IggfqXA-os8 As far as I can tell it is some problem with my gas system since it seems that the bolt is being pushed back far enough to eject the fired shotshell but not quite far enough to release the next one into the chamber. The gun was running fine AM and then PM it started doing this. Interestingly enough it has been 100% with slugs which also makes me think it could be a gas issue. Cleaning hasn't helped and unlike the JMs it is pretty hard to disassemble the piston on my gun to really clean it well. I actually picked up a recoil operated shotgun to use at my next match but will be coming back around to try and fix this one. My next try will be to replace the gas piston to see if that helps. Miculek just posted a video on JM maintenance and how he cleans the piston. It might be helpful.